Ignition trouble on blaster

Drogsmostwantd

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Mar 10, 2016
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Hi I recently purchased a 2006 blaster it's my first time having one so I don't know a whole lot about them was looking for help with a problem I have the problem is when I purchased the blaster it wouldn't stay idle and the key was stuck in the ignition and wouldn't come out so I purchased a new ignition and a pull off kill cord and a tuning screw as it was missing it so I thought that was the reason it wouldn't idle but it wasnt I thought it would work with new ignition and screw and would be straight forward to sort but when i connected the new ignition on was off and off was on no matter what I tried I can't seem to fix this problem or get it to idle also when I took the old ignition off I noticed it wasn't the same as the one I'd purchased so I'm guessing it wasn't a genuine blaster part could this fake ignition have caused something to short circuit or is it an electrical fault any help would be great thanks in advance
 
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I dont believe that the key would cause issues with it idling, if its starting then key is ok. I would take the carb completely off the bike, give it a thorough cleaning. check the floats while you are in there and adjust them accordingly.

Can you list any engine mods?
pipe? porting? stroker? pre-mix or oil injection?

PICS! we love pics, take a bunch of your carb.

Like he said, check your spark. Checking your compression is also a good idea. Check reeds! Even a cracked reed can cause problems.
 
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I dont believe that the key would cause issues with it idling, if its starting then key is ok. I would take the carb completely off the bike, give it a thorough cleaning. check the floats while you are in there and adjust them accordingly.

Can you list any engine mods?
pipe? porting? stroker? pre-mix or oil injection?

PICS! we love pics, take a bunch of your carb.

Like he said, check your spark. Checking your compression is also a good idea. Check reeds! Even a cracked reed can cause problems.
the fella thats haD the yamaha blaster hacked the wiring loom so on is off and on is off
 
Have you pulled the plug and hooked it up to the cdi and grounded to see if you are getting spark? and tunning screw.... as in for the carb?

Please explain how you hook the plug up to the CDI ?? Sorry, bogus info right here !!

As mentioned, key/ignition/kill switch and idle are two separate Issues.

As to the idle issue, I would start by cleaning the carb and air cleaner. Probably hasn't been cleaned since it left the factory.
Be sure to remove the pilot jet and clean it, real tiny hole in it, which could be the idle problem. Also open both sides of the "TORS" brick on top of carb and clean and lube it. Many times the large screw on top strips or breaks.
Go to the carb sub-forum , lots of good info on carb cleaning and adjustment, especially the one about "almost free/leaky carb"

Highly recommend finding the download manual on here or getting a Clymers Repair Manual.

Now the switch problem is weird though. Most key switches complete the circuit, the one you have seems to be opposite. If you have a tester, unplug the wires and test it. Only two wires so it's not like you can get them wrong.
Now the further switch is a different story. Some are normally open, some are normally closed. Have to be sure you have one specific for Blaster and wire it according to directions.

BTW, Welcome !!
 
Please explain how you hook the plug up to the CDI ?? Sorry, bogus info right here !!

As mentioned, key/ignition/kill switch and idle are two separate Issues.

As to the idle issue, I would start by cleaning the carb and air cleaner. Probably hasn't been cleaned since it left the factory.
Be sure to remove the pilot jet and clean it, real tiny hole in it, which could be the idle problem. Also open both sides of the "TORS" brick on top of carb and clean and lube it. Many times the large screw on top strips or breaks.
Go to the carb sub-forum , lots of good info on carb cleaning and adjustment, especially the one about "almost free/leaky carb"

Highly recommend finding the download manual on here or getting a Clymers Repair Manual.

Now the switch problem is weird though. Most key switches complete the circuit, the one you have seems to be opposite. If you have a tester, unplug the wires and test it. Only two wires so it's not like you can get them wrong.
Now the further switch is a different story. Some are normally open, some are normally closed. Have to be sure you have one specific for Blaster and wire it according to directions.

BTW, Welcome !!
I realize CDI was the wrong term...... Coil being the correct one...... But really bogus info? I'm sure he got the point which is make sure you are getting a spark at the plug. None the less good catch totally my bad.
 
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