Idle problem carb or exhaust???

fullthrottle

Member
Nov 9, 2015
38
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32
South Louisiana
Ok so i wrecked my bike pretty bad a while back. I set it back too far in a wheelie in 4th gear on the road and watched it roll about 5 times. As soon as i started it back up it would not run at all unless i was over half throttle. I noticed that there was something loose in the exhaust and after doing a little research i found out it was a baffle that was broken off in the pipe. I cut the pipe open took the baffle out and gave it to a friend of mine to weld it back thinking that this would fix the problem. I got the pipe back on today and it is still just as bad. Its seems like there is something wrong with the pilot jet because as soon as i start giving it gas it runs strong. When i took the carb apart i cleaned everything and couldnt see any thing wrong. Any ideas as to what could be causing this?
 
Did you check, the idle setting on the carb or tors? If idle varied with steering it could have been held with the throttle cable.
My guess is if you were doing 4th gear wheelies you already knew this. Wouldn't hurt to check the intake for any blockages, air filter that has come loose, and the carb float height. If its not idling but running fine otherwise I can't imagine it would be the exhaust, especially if the baffle is back in correctly. Also check for a cracked intake boot, and such. I would think it has to be either the carb or a crack or leak somewhere. When you bounce them down the road like that, just about anything could crack or come loose.

Probably not a lot of help, but it's all I got ATM.
 
I can't imagine it would be the exhaust, especially if the baffle is back in correctly.

This may be a really stupid question but is that baffle important because i talked to a mechanic who is very familiar with 2 strokes and he said it wouldnt hurt to take it out (it is possible that he thought i was talking about one in the muffler) so i just took it out and had it welded back up
 
Also i thought i would add that the intake is fine and has no leaks. Im not sure about the tors i will have to do a little mire research on it. And im not sure if the idle changes with steering because it dies very quickly under about half throttle
 
I am not super familiar with how the baffle In the stock pipe works, I imagine removing it would change tings some but AFAIK, your aftermarket pipes don't have baffles in them. Don't quote me on this but, I am gonna say removing the baffleand maybe a little bit of backpressure as a result, would not cause it to not run under half throttle. I am thinking a leak around the boot area, float height messed up, or something like that. But if it was the idle then it would run with only a tiny bit of throttle, if its a pre 03 model you could just unhook the wires going to the tors unit on the carb, if it runs then you found your problem.
Usually by now one of the much more knowledgeable guys have replied, but its the holidays be patient I wouldnt doubt if someone on here could pin it down a lot more closely.
 
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Ok so i found the problem. When the pipe was welded back together it was a little off and it gave me alot of trouble getting the silencer on. On a test run down the road the silencer fell plum off because i didnt have it bolted on. When i stopped it ran perfect!!! So its something in the actual silencer that is blocking it. I will be buying a toomey in the near future:cool: thanks alot!
 
Ok so i found the problem. When the pipe was welded back together it was a little off and it gave me alot of trouble getting the silencer on. On a test run down the road the silencer fell plum off because i didnt have it bolted on. When i stopped it ran perfect!!! So its something in the actual silencer that is blocking it. I will be buying a toomey in the near future:cool: thanks alot!
Toomeys are great. I love mine.
 
Toomeys are great. I love mine.
+1 big difference from a DG pipe which is called Dont Get, or Don't Go, on here. I though it was just hype and the DG was no worse than fatty, but I did buy a Toomey B1 and the difference is night and day, the Toomey pulls harder all the way to where the DG quit making power, and about the rpm the DG would start to taper off and loose power, is the same rpm where the Toomey gets its second wind (almost like a second band) and really starts ripping.
I also got a chance to ride a jetted and ProCircuit piped blaster which made better power than the DG as well, I liked the way the Pro Circuit felt, but for an otherwise stock blaster, nothing beats the Toomey setup, at least nothing I have heard of.

According to Toomey's website you may loose power running with a different silencer other than theirs. FWIW, I put my Toomey pipe on with a freshly packed DG Type II silencer and it fit and performed well. I did get one of those little 2 or 3" long silicone rubber pipe connectors just to seal it up tight, it fit and sealed fairly well on its own.
The trick with a silencer is back pressure, Toomey put a lot of research into the whole package, not just the pipe. A different silencer may provide more or less backpressure and change the power curve slightly, the good news is that silencers for a particular model are quite similar as far as flow and backpressure are concerned (I am sure there are exceptions). Maybe someone has some good info on silencers?

If your silencer is freshly packed, and not blocked it should function reasonably well. Fiberglass packing in bulk is around 5 or $10, or $15-$20 cut for your specific silencer. A silencer with the packing burnt out will not only be a good bit louder, but it will provide less backpressure, and make less power.
 
+1 big difference from a DG pipe which is called Dont Get, or Don't Go, on here. I though it was just hype and the DG was no worse than fatty, but I did buy a Toomey B1 and the difference is night and day, the Toomey pulls harder all the way to where the DG quit making power, and about the rpm the DG would start to taper off and loose power, is the same rpm where the Toomey gets its second wind (almost like a second band) and really starts ripping.
I also got a chance to ride a jetted and ProCircuit piped blaster which made better power than the DG as well, I liked the way the Pro Circuit felt, but for an otherwise stock blaster, nothing beats the Toomey setup, at least nothing I have heard of.
Thanks for the info i will probably just order a new toomey silencer. The only one on ebay is all dented up and a new one isnt that expensive. The fun part will be learnings how to get the jetting just right since i have never done a plug chop before
 
Before you start working about plug chops ( which are quite useful)
You need to read up on carb jetting in genera, just like leak tests, compression tests, top end rebuilds, and mixing fuel, jetting is something you need to learn if you are gonna ride and maintain a two strokes. Jetting a carb is not that hard as far as how to make the adjustments / change jets, the difficult part is being able to sense if it is rich or lean and learning to think in terms of throttle position not rpm.
The good news is the stock carb is already on for the most part, if you go with the stock 32.5 pilot, 1 3/4 turns out on the air screw, 3rd or middle clip on the needle very little adjustment of the lower circuits should be needed. Typically about a 310 main jet for the Toomey with the airbox vented or lid removed, is pretty close. It can vary depending on temp, elevation, engine condition etc.

You need to read the jetting info in the carb section, it wouldn't hurt to do a google search for 2 stroke jetting as well.

Before you start you need
A fresh clean air filter, a box or two of plugs
Float height set to IIRC 21mm (see carb section )

Leak test results, if needs to be leak free or close to it or the task goes from tuning for best performance to trying to get enough fuel in it to keep it from dying a lean death. If your leaky, it needs fixed.

Main jets at least 3-5 sizes above and below where you expect to end up. Jetsrus or rockymountainatv are both places I have got jets from and had good experiences with. Get genuine Mikuni jets.

Other than the above (I know I am forgetting something important), your motor should be generally in good shape, fresh plug, fresh mix gas. And try to be somewhere where you have a nice long preferably uphill run, to do your plug chops and make passes at various throttle positions. I have found that 3rd or 4th gear, starting at a steady 1/8 throttle cruise, then going to the throttle position you wish to test and holding it until it revs however far it will go rpm wise, gives good results. For the lower ranges below half throttle I sometimes will ease off a bit then back to the test position or add a bit of throttle then back to the test position seems to give me a better idea of how its acting at and around that position.
Usually I deal with idle, 1/8 throttle or barely open, 1/4 which is a slow cruise, half (important for needle setting and a lot of people will chop here to verify), 3/4 which is where the needle and main jets switch over and WOT for setting main jet.
You can usually skip and do idle, half ,and WOT. Since with the stock carb you wont need to concern yourself with finding the right needle or slide cut out.

But I would go read up on jetting, leak tests, and setting the float, order my jets (or pick them up at the local Yamaha shop), then start looking into getting everything in good shape and ready for actually jetting when they arrive.

Enjoy ans sorry if its a rough read, I suck at English.
 
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