I hope its just the Top end!!!!!

sdblaster

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Nov 13, 2008
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I was at glamis this weekend,just got the 01 blaster,piped,jetted,reeds,so I was told.it was running good and I was running it pretty hard came over a dune and it just shut off.Kick starter has no compression. Any idea's?

I hope its just the Top end!!!!!
 
Oh the bike has the oil by-pass on it, and I used 32.1 ratio...Thanks




Me back in 1991.South San Diego was the place to ride....

 
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The kick starter feels very week,it might have very little..lol

What else could it be.could it be anything with the lower end?Thanks
 
usually if its something in the lower end that caused compression loss, there wouldve been a big bang.
most likely you didnt/forgot to clean your air filter, got sand in your intake tract, and scratched the hell out of your cylinder walls. pull your head off and look for deep scratches.
this is most likely going to amount to a new top end, and either boring or re-sleeving
 
Damm...........

Dammmm.A hole in the top of the piston........ So will I have to take the bottom end apart?.... I took off the top and now the kick starter is stuck.

What's the best thing to do here.? Thank's




I was at glamis this weekend,just got the 01 blaster,piped,jetted,reeds,so I was told.it was running good and I was running it pretty hard came over a dune and it just shut off.Kick starter has no compression. Any idea's?

I hope its just the Top end!!!!!
 
You are going to have to split the cases to clean that up. I wouldn't be surprised if you have to get a new crank, all of the piston material is hell on bearings in your bottom end. Looks like something caused you to lean out, whether it was impropper jetting, dry bowl or an air leak. You need to determine the cause or it will just happen again. I highly reccommend having a leak down test done once you get it back together to make sure you don't have any air leaks.
 
the only reason you would need to take the bottom end apart is if the crank doesn't spin over nice and easy by hand. just use the connecting rod to try and rotate the crank. if it rough then you will need to clean it and make sure you didn't fry the crank bearing but in all honesty for just having lost compression sounds more to me like you just seized the rings to the piston.
 
Thanks

Thanks alot..... At first when the top was on the kick starter was kicking easy once I took the top off and the piston went all the way down,now its stuck.. So if the crank spins good do I still need to bore it out or can I just get a new piston...





the only reason you would need to take the bottom end apart is if the crank doesn't spin over nice and easy by hand. just use the connecting rod to try and rotate the crank. if it rough then you will need to clean it and make sure you didn't fry the crank bearing but in all honesty for just having lost compression sounds more to me like you just seized the rings to the piston.
 
needs to be bored to next level, then get a piston.. anytime you do a topend rebuild its a MUSt to go to the next bore size. then eventually resleeve/ buy new jug. also you say its stuck.... so therefore your gonna have to split the case.
 
the only reason you would need to take the bottom end apart is if the crank doesn't spin over nice and easy by hand. just use the connecting rod to try and rotate the crank. if it rough then you will need to clean it and make sure you didn't fry the crank bearing but in all honesty for just having lost compression sounds more to me like you just seized the rings to the piston.

is your cylinder wall all groved up or did you just burn a hole on the piston????
depends on how much work your gonna have to do, maybe just a piston.ive burnt a hole in a piston before and thats all that happend, but if your rings came unseated you may have dug up your cylinder wall...post some pics of the inside of your cylinder...run your finger in it..how does it feel..rough or smooth?if not then your gonna have to bore it.
remember also..if you burn a piston up,,the broken material has to go somewhere !!! obviously it all goes down !!! ansd some out your exhaust. if it were me i would be splitting the case to give it an inspection, but if youve never done that, than atleast give it a good flushing, several times !

BTW mrbrocco....how did that port job turn out..i see you havent responded to kenedy at all, im curious of how it run after you bolted it up

also...you DO NOT need to bore a cylinder every time you do a top end rebuild...lol..rings will wear long before a cylinder wall does...you can add a new piston, fresh set of rings and a new gasket set as long as you havent had a piston burn up, rings come unseated and scratch up a cylinder...ive done many a top end rebuild without boreing....all depends on how your cylinder is...take a micrometer, check it out/....see what shape its in, do a good inspection if you know what your looking for

now...the "the leak down test"...when ya get it all back together again make sure ya get the carb boots on clean and tight, make sure the reed spacer is clean and tight, good new gaskets on everything. whenever ya do a rebuild ALWAYS use new gaskets..start your engine and let it idle...grab a can of startting fluid(ether)...spray a little bit near your intake boots and around all your gaskets and around your crank case..(dont go overboard, it only takes a little...if theres a crack, leak or hole anywhere your engine will start to idle irractically imediatly...there ya go, ya just did a leak test and saved yourself a hundred dollars without taking it to a garage....I worked for a outdoor powersports dealer for a few years and thats all we ever did...it works everytime
 
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Thanks

Thanks for all the info everyone....


is your cylinder wall all groved up or did you just burn a hole on the piston????
depends on how much work your gonna have to do, maybe just a piston.ive burnt a hole in a piston before and thats all that happend, but if your rings came unseated you may have dug up your cylinder wall...post some pics of the inside of your cylinder...run your finger in it..how does it feel..rough or smooth?if not then your gonna have to bore it.
remember also..if you burn a piston up,,the broken material has to go somewhere !!! obviously it all goes down !!! ansd some out your exhaust. if it were me i would be splitting the case to give it an inspection, but if youve never done that, than atleast give it a good flushing, several times !

BTW mrbrocco....how did that port job turn out..i see you havent responded to kenedy at all, im curious of how it run after you bolted it up

also...you DO NOT need to bore a cylinder every time you do a top end rebuild...lol..rings will wear long before a cylinder wall does...you can add a new piston, fresh set of rings and a new gasket set as long as you havent had a piston burn up, rings come unseated and scratch up a cylinder...ive done many a top end rebuild without boreing....all depends on how your cylinder is...take a micrometer, check it out/....see what shape its in, do a good inspection if you know what your looking for

now...the "the leak down test"...when ya get it all back together again make sure ya get the carb boots on clean and tight, make sure the reed spacer is clean and tight, good new gaskets on everything. whenever ya do a rebuild ALWAYS use new gaskets..start your engine and let it idle...grab a can of startting fluid(ether)...spray a little bit near your intake boots and around all your gaskets and around your crank case..(dont go overboard, it only takes a little...if theres a crack, leak or hole anywhere your engine will start to idle irractically imediatly...there ya go, ya just did a leak test and saved yourself a hundred dollars without taking it to a garage....I worked for a outdoor powersports dealer for a few years and thats all we ever did...it works everytime
 
your welcome....thats just advice given from my own experience of owning two strokes ...i got my first dirtbike when i was 6 years old..im now 31 ! wow..im old ! but remember..opinions are like assholes..everyones got one , im sure youll get different advice as well
 
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removing all the metal in the bottom of the crankcase is going to be tough without splitting the cases,but ive seen it done
 
ya and if u dont have alot of money in the engine u can spin it backwards and it should free up to clean it out. usually there are melted peices in the rod bearing where it meets the crank and it hits the case and wont let it turn over. i always split the case and replace main crannk bearings. but to each his own. sucks to know u have melted piston in ur main bearings, would make me scred to get on it knowing bottom end isnt 100%.
and i would like to add one thing to what daniel said. dont forget to hone the cylinder.
SDBLASTER. FUNNY old school vids i thought it was a jacked up video untill i realized u was shooting it with a VHS!!! hahaahha
 
needs to be bored to next level, then get a piston.. anytime you do a topend rebuild its a MUSt to go to the next bore size. then eventually resleeve/ buy new jug. also you say its stuck.... so therefore your gonna have to split the case.

Not always necissary to bore, if it didn't gouge the cylinder wall and the bore is within tollerances he will be able to get away with a light deglazing hone.
 
what was your static compression what premix oil and i bet you ran cheap pump gas at sea level didnt you
 
What gas should I be running on my stock motor? I premix and usually just run 87oct. gas. Should I go up the 89 or 91? Will I then have to rejet?
Thanks