I got sucked in!

Dutter

Member
Mar 25, 2015
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Bought a 2000 for $150 and now it looks likes every gone too far!
I sent cylinder, crank and head to KOR for port, bore, head and crank rebuild then all the other goodies to assemble. I will be putting V Force 4 in and reusing the stock carb at first and if it runs well I might stay with it. I will also be putting all new bearings everywhere and a clutch.
I'm never going to get my money out of this!
On a good note it came with a Graydon pipe and silencer, new tires and rear billet bearing housing RU Racing brand. Looks like I'll have about $800 in engine.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks
 
I'm never going to get my money out of this!

at least you realized that from the beginning well before you hit the 5/6 grand mark :eek:
and you made good choices for parts and builder :)
 
Yeah, thats dimes in the bucket compared to some of the quads around here. Heck I put almost 3k in mine, and its barely above stock! But it runs like a brand new quad, and I won't have any worries for a long time, since I plug chopped my jetting and my oil injection is removed :D I'm just messing with you 2! Had to after I read pudvah's post. And there should be no worries about "if it runs well" with KOR doing your work. You may never get your money back out of it, but getting to ride is worth the cost!
 
I too would recommend a plug chop be done, I would just hate to see a KOR masterpiece not run to its full potential because of running a fuel rich AFR.

Worse still, a fuel lean AFR leading to premature destruction of such great workmanship.
 
Sounds like a great build. you're going to love the engine work you had done. Now it is time to throw money at the suspension. A rear shock off of a 400 EX, with a bushing kit from KOR, and some used works shocks are a good start.
 
I too would recommend a plug chop be done, I would just hate to see a KOR masterpiece not run to its full potential because of running a fuel rich AFR.

Worse still, a fuel lean AFR leading to premature destruction of such great workmanship.
No need to worry, have you looked at my triple pipe 175hp snowmobile that has never blew up without plug chopping? It's my avatar pic! I know what I'm doing, I've ridin 2 strokes since the 70's!!
 
I've ridin 2 strokes since the 70's!!

I have been at it since the 50s and I know that what I recommend is a good thing to do!

Looking at something will not confirm the correct AFR, I can look at my bike until I am blue in the face, but that is no guarantee that the jetting is correct.

Plug chop and make sure that you are running the correct AFR, or be prepared to pay the price!
 
I have been at it since the 50s and I know that what I recommend is a good thing to do!

Looking at something will not confirm the correct AFR, I can look at my bike until I am blue in the face, but that is no guarantee that the jetting is correct.

Plug chop and make sure that you are running the correct AFR, or be prepared to pay the price!
You know your more than welcome to do it however you want but if you honestly keep telling people that that is the only way to know, THAT IS A BOLD FACE LIE!! And too suggest that if I don't do it will blow is absurd! I don't chop and I never blow up! I don't do things the same as the 70's I have evolved maybe you should evolve also. I am more than ok if this is your way but again to tell folks this is the only way to jet the engine right is wrong, please spread truth, not lies.
I think it's a waste of time and not necessary but I never said my way is the only way to be jetted proper! And your right you have too look at the plug and not the bike to see if it is jetted right!
Also I have posted in ways I shouldn't have and I apologize for wording things that way.
But I'm not telling lies!
 
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I would rather be called a bold faced liar, rather than try to fool people that a plug chop is not required to arrive at a perfect AFR.

I advise that a plug chop be done to confirm jetting so that some poor inexperienced guy, who thinks that just because you (Dutter) says that it is not required, takes notice of you and damages his engine.
 
Looks like a "tool" measuring contest going on. :eek: :rolleyes:


When an owner is inexperienced in tuning, a plug chop is the safest way to check jetting. $3 for a plug vs $2-300 for a top end , doesn't take Einstien to do the math.

With lots of experience, a rider can tell by the sound and feel if jetting is close. I prefer to jet way on the rich side, if it isn't stuttering/bogging, it's lean enough. I'd rather leave a horse in the barn then leave all of them on the trail.

Tho I've never actually "chopped" a plug, I do all the other steps of a plug chop when testing a new set-up.
When I was dragging, I would check (read) the plugs after every 1/4 mile run, even with running EGTs.

Only thing that has really changed "over time" is the amount of power per unit displacement. :p
 
if you honestly keep telling people that that is the only way to know, THAT IS A BOLD FACE LIE!!
If you don't wanna plug chop, thats fine we can't make you, but a plug chop is the only way that anyone, of any experience level can get their jetting right. As comparison, I do a lot of carpentry work. And I tell you I have done trim work all day without using a tape measure(lost it, isolated job and I hide things well!), and it came out great. Because I have the experience to do that, would I tell somebody else to do that, never!
 
What always concerns me is that in experienced folks change jets and are satisfied with the result when the engine runs really great.

Often the reason that it performs so well is because it is on the wrong side of lean, a dangerously costly mix.

One jet on the lean side can cause damage to an engine.

That is why I and many experienced people promote a plug chop, to confirm that the jetting is safe.