how to read a spark plug

32.5 pilot is what you should have, roughly 1 1/2 turns out.

The idle and pilot will affect up to 1/4 throttle on the needle circuit, this could be why you have a problem spot at around 1/4 throttle in second gear.
 
32.5 pilot is what you should have, roughly 1 1/2 turns out.

The idle and pilot will affect up to 1/4 throttle on the needle circuit, this could be why you have a problem spot at around 1/4 throttle in second gear.
So where do i get the jets? I need a few main jets 260-290? and the 32.5 pilot right?
 
I am coming up with part # 260-14142-32-00 Mikuni for the pilot jet, and the main jet would be a large hex or hex. <<<<(you need those ones) The small hex are actually the same size hex but shorter,, about half the length.. If you cant find or are unsure still about your main jets p.m me I may have some..
 
Hi guys, ive had this plug in for months and after looking at it today im guessing im too rich on jets or oil or both, please advise. Any help will be appreciated. 2004 blaster: Head mod by ken oconnor, dmc full pipe, ported, +4 timing, no airbox lid, 340 main jet, needle clip 3.
 

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Unfortunately one cannot give a correct view by looking at any plug that has been run over a long period.

The correct way to read a plug to see if the air fuel ratio is correct is to do a plug chop.

What oil and what ratio do you use?

Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.


WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.


Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
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With the needle clip on the middle position my thoughts would be that you may be too lean on the needle.

Every DMC header pipe I know of loves to have a richer needle setting, DMC recommends the needle be at its richest!

What oil do you use at what ratio?
 
I use castrol synthetic from the autolube pump, I also add about 75ml oil in per tank of fuel......I know, probably not the best practice. Conidering ditching the autolube and mixing 32 to 1.
 
I use castrol synthetic from the autolube pump, I also add about 75ml oil in per tank of fuel......I know, probably not the best practice. Conidering ditching the autolube and mixing 32 to 1.
I read somewhere on here that the pump mixes at a ratio of 20:1 so adding the extra oil in the tank is not necessary especially when a lot of recreational riders mix at 32:1. Make sure the oil you use is safe for oil injections systems if using the pump.
 
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I read somewhere on here that the pump mixes at a ratio of 20:1 so adding the extra oil in the tank is not necessary especially when a lot of recreational riders mix at 32:1. Make sure the oil you use is safe for oil injections systems if using the pump.
The ratio at which the pump mixes is dependent on your jetting though
 
The ratio at which the pump mixes is dependent on your jetting though

good point. I would still think that you would have to veer far from stock jetting to get it to inject at anything above 32:1 so I still think that adding oil to the tank would not be necessary. Maybe a more veteran BF member can chime in with their opinion.
 
If you look at the ratios, 20:1 is more than 50% more oil than a 32:1 ratio. So that means you would have to have 50% more gas than stock jetting to even get a ratio at 30:1
 
If you are adding oil to the fuel you are leaning out the air fuel ratio which will cause it to run dangerously lean.

Adding oil will also provide more oil than the combustion process may be able to handle.

Either stick with the injection, which I advise, or delete it and run a ratio of 32:1 .

The injection system is not jet related, it is controlled exclusively by engine speed and provides a set oil ratio of around 20:1 at all throttle openings.
 
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