HomeMade Stirling Engine Project

Triple_B

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Sep 20, 2010
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Finally got my stirling engine to run. These engines rely on cyclic compression and expansion of air gases. The bottom of the cylinder is heated, the top is cooled. There is a displacer inside of the cylinder, made of steel wool. The flywheel is made of 2 CD's glued together, with 4 quarters added for more "momentum". They are "external combustion engines"
Stirling Engine First Run - YouTube
 
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Re: HomeMade Stirling Engine, First Run

that is the most coolest redneck invention i have ever seen max rep goin your way thats amazing send me directions
 
Re: HomeMade Stirling Engine, First Run

That is pretty awesome, Trips! So, is it for a project at school, or just something you wanted to do?
 
Re: HomeMade Stirling Engine, First Run

sweet dude! always wanted to try one of those, how long did it take to rig up?
Well it took me a few hours to get everything "set". But took numerous "trial and error" periods. If you get everything correct the first try (HIGHLY unlikely), it will take about 3 hours to complete, starting from scratch.
that is the most coolest redneck invention i have ever seen max rep goin your way thats amazing send me directions
I researched tons of info online. Just Google "How to build a tin can stirling engine" and be prepared to read. Its MUCH easier to get these running when you understand how it works. I also used YouTube a lot, I based mine off of this: specallez - YouTube
That is pretty awesome, Trips! So, is it for a project at school, or just something you wanted to do?

Just something I wanted to do. Had nothing to do today so I decided to go at it again, this time I was successful!
 
Re: HomeMade Stirling Engine, First Run

I love to experiment with alternative energy sources .
I have been scrounging for the parts for a 12v windmill project .
I also think magnets have so much potential to be used in zero gravity or in a vacuum to produce infinite amounts of electricity . Cool project , I have always wanted to make a stirling engine as well!!!
 
Re: HomeMade Stirling Engine, First Run

we have us a young Einstein in the making !!!!!!!!
 
Re: HomeMade Stirling Engine, First Run

I REALLY like the tin can and balloon ingenuity.

Sterling engines are actually REALLY amazing. With a proper seal, a beta style engine can be run at high rpm's and relatively high power output.

Want to know a really amazing piece of trivia. A basic sterling engine (with a few extra modifications of course) is how compressed gas companies produce liquified air and ultimately liquid nitrogen. Chemical cooling is the first stage where a "freezer" uses the carnot cycle to extract heat into a heat exchanger but the working fluid can only go so far AND the inefficiencies in exchangers become too great. From that point, the chilled air is passed over the head of an externally powered stirling engine (electric motor driven into the crankshaft) so that the working fluid inside the engine (one of the noble gasses) is forced around and around. Even at RIDICULOUSLY low temperatures (down into the single digit kelvin) the "cold" side of the stirling engine will still be getting colder and the "hot" side of the stirling engine will still pass off heat. The limit comes at the triple point of helium, 4.3K or -452 degF at which point the liquid becomes super critical and containment becomes an issue as it has no viscosity and begins climbing the container walls!
 
Re: HomeMade Stirling Engine, First Run

I REALLY like the tin can and balloon ingenuity.

Sterling engines are actually REALLY amazing. With a proper seal, a beta style engine can be run at high rpm's and relatively high power output.

Want to know a really amazing piece of trivia. A basic sterling engine (with a few extra modifications of course) is how compressed gas companies produce liquified air and ultimately liquid nitrogen. Chemical cooling is the first stage where a "freezer" uses the carnot cycle to extract heat into a heat exchanger but the working fluid can only go so far AND the inefficiencies in exchangers become too great. From that point, the chilled air is passed over the head of an externally powered stirling engine (electric motor driven into the crankshaft) so that the working fluid inside the engine (one of the noble gasses) is forced around and around. Even at RIDICULOUSLY low temperatures (down into the single digit kelvin) the "cold" side of the stirling engine will still be getting colder and the "hot" side of the stirling engine will still pass off heat. The limit comes at the triple point of helium, 4.3K or -452 degF at which point the liquid becomes super critical and containment becomes an issue as it has no viscosity and begins climbing the container walls!

Challenge Accepted!

I'm gunna need some help on this one!
 
Re: HomeMade Stirling Engine, First Run

Challenge Accepted!

I'm gunna need some help on this one!

LOL it requires really specialised equipment to make one and believe it or not, they have to keep running once they're started. The clearances are made such that the unit has to be chilled before it can be started and then it cannot be run once it's allowed to be heated back up....
 
Re: HomeMade Stirling Engine, First Run

Made some improvements. It runs smoother this time. I'm going to need to find a greater source of heat though, these little candles aren't getting hot enough. I had to use my mini Butane torch to aid in the heating, as you may see in the video. Also, the cooling water warms up very fast. Even with ice cubes in it, it'll go from 40 degrees to 70 in 5 minutes. Anyway, heres the second run

Stirling Engine, Second Run - YouTube
 
Re: HomeMade Stirling Engine, First Run

One big problem with my stirling engine is that it requires a BIG temperature difference. It needs to be HOT at the bottom and COLD at the top, which is extremely inefficient. Improvements are needed for sure!

Future Improvements:

1 - I still need to make the displacer lighter, and thinner. This will allow less of a temperature difference inside the cylinder, making the engine run easier.

2 - I need to find a straighter crankshaft. The coat hanger is somewhat straight, but still not perfect. This is causing internal drag, and can cause the engine to slow down.

3 - I need to make the length that the displacer travels smaller, by decreasing the size of the displacer crank. This will also make the engine run easier and smoother, and require less of a temperature difference.


I know there are more, but these are the main improvements I am focusing on next