Hey guys, Top-end questions!

Blaster200boy

New Member
Aug 15, 2009
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Floyds Knobs, IN
When I go to put my top-end back together, is it necessary to for me to lube the cylinder? I'm thinking the answer is yes, but i don't wanna hurt the motor if i use a regular oil.... I was gonna go buy some bel-ray assembly lube if I can't use what I have.. Also, my mechanic said its fine to just bore and hone it and not do something with the ports. Is that good advice? I don't know if i need to have someone clean them up or whatever needs to happen so the rings don't snag a port? I love my Blaster to death and the last thing i wanna do is break a ring and re-build again and possibly split the cases.....

Rep will be given to the person who helps out!
 
well when i got my rebuild from Kennedy we put the piston in and didnt have to use any type of lube don't see why it would be different. As for the ports just bore it over to the next size it will be fine as long as the people doing the boring are good
 
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Here we are all set up to run some cylinders through the first step in boring a cylinder. After the upper and lower gasket surfaces are cleaned we are ready to go.​



Mounting the Cylinder.
You are seeing correctly, the cylinder is mounted upside down. This assures that the new bore is square with the cylinder base.



The Cutting Tip.
The cutting tip spins in the holder and automatically feeds itself down into the bore cutting a perfectly round hole parallel to the cylinder base. The bore is taken to within two thoundandths or so of the finished bore size using this machine. Most shops will be happy to show you their boring equipment if they have it. If all they show you is a hone, take your cylinder elsewhere. Removing large amounts of material with a hone can get the bore out of square - not cool.



Rotary Burr
Sandroll

Chamfering Ports.
On two-stroke cylinders it is necessary to chamfer the port edges. Rounding of the sharp edge prevents premature wear on the piston and ring assembly. Using a rotary burr to make the initial chamfer, and finishing it out with a sandroll, is a good way to get the proper angle and finish.




The top of the exhaust port shows a properly chamfered port. It doesn't take a lot of material removal, just enough to break the sharp edge. I prefer to do my chamfer work before I finish hone the cylinder.



Honing Tools.


What you see in this photo are cylinder hones. Most of you have seen the "spring loaded paddle hones," these are much different . These hones adjust by a screw that allows the operator to add tension as needed. Unlike a spring loaded hone, they will only cut a round circle if used properly. The cylinder's final finish and size are attained using these pieces of equipment.



The fine stones that are doing the finish work will also imbed their abrasive into the cast iron walls of the cylinder. After picking up your cylinder from getting a fresh bore job, always wash your cylinder in hot soapy water. Washing in a solvent tank won't get the abrasives out! Dawn dishwashing liquid works great for the final cleaning of a freshly bored and honed cylinder. After you clean and rinse the cylinder, dry it quickly and then get a clean white paper towel with oil on it and use it to lubricate the bore. If the towel comes out of the cylinder, when you're done lubricating it, with any traces of black or gray then the cylinder needs to be cleaned yet again. When properly cleaned the white paper towel with the oil on it will look the same color on removal as it did when you put it into the bore.
You are now ready to install your new piston into the cylinder and get back to riding!

Hope this helps this is what we do
 
Here we are all set up to run some cylinders through the first step in boring a cylinder. After the upper and lower gasket surfaces are cleaned we are ready to go.​



Mounting the Cylinder.
You are seeing correctly, the cylinder is mounted upside down. This assures that the new bore is square with the cylinder base.



The Cutting Tip.
The cutting tip spins in the holder and automatically feeds itself down into the bore cutting a perfectly round hole parallel to the cylinder base. The bore is taken to within two thoundandths or so of the finished bore size using this machine. Most shops will be happy to show you their boring equipment if they have it. If all they show you is a hone, take your cylinder elsewhere. Removing large amounts of material with a hone can get the bore out of square - not cool.



Rotary Burr
Sandroll

Chamfering Ports.
On two-stroke cylinders it is necessary to chamfer the port edges. Rounding of the sharp edge prevents premature wear on the piston and ring assembly. Using a rotary burr to make the initial chamfer, and finishing it out with a sandroll, is a good way to get the proper angle and finish.




The top of the exhaust port shows a properly chamfered port. It doesn't take a lot of material removal, just enough to break the sharp edge. I prefer to do my chamfer work before I finish hone the cylinder.



Honing Tools.


What you see in this photo are cylinder hones. Most of you have seen the "spring loaded paddle hones," these are much different . These hones adjust by a screw that allows the operator to add tension as needed. Unlike a spring loaded hone, they will only cut a round circle if used properly. The cylinder's final finish and size are attained using these pieces of equipment.



The fine stones that are doing the finish work will also imbed their abrasive into the cast iron walls of the cylinder. After picking up your cylinder from getting a fresh bore job, always wash your cylinder in hot soapy water. Washing in a solvent tank won't get the abrasives out! Dawn dishwashing liquid works great for the final cleaning of a freshly bored and honed cylinder. After you clean and rinse the cylinder, dry it quickly and then get a clean white paper towel with oil on it and use it to lubricate the bore. If the towel comes out of the cylinder, when you're done lubricating it, with any traces of black or gray then the cylinder needs to be cleaned yet again. When properly cleaned the white paper towel with the oil on it will look the same color on removal as it did when you put it into the bore.
You are now ready to install your new piston into the cylinder and get back to riding!

Hope this helps this is what we do

So, when i get my cylinedr back from a bore and hone, do you think the ports will be ok? and this helped alot thanks lasx. +2 rep
 
So, when i get my cylinedr back from a bore and hone, do you think the ports will be ok? and this helped alot thanks lasx. +2 rep
no you have to have the ports machined when you bore it out or it will cause premature wear,which means snagging a port!!! and you should lube everything with raw premix, that includes the piston bearing. and if you dont have new gaskets get them.

tighten in a criss cross pattern. use a new plug.
my machine shop would charge 10 bucks to machine the ports, so do it right and it will last a long time with proper jetting and maintenance.
 
no you have to have the ports machined when you bore it out or it will cause premature wear,which means snagging a port!!! and you should lube everything with raw premix, that includes the piston bearing. and if you dont have new gaskets get them.

tighten in a criss cross pattern. use a new plug.
my machine shop would charge 10 bucks to machine the ports, so do it right and it will last a long time with proper jetting and maintenance.

Heck i could send it to Wildcard, Flotek, or kennedy and have them do it! lol
 
it probley wont kill your motor if you didnt lube the piston bearing, rings, and cylinder. but when you go to re ring it the next time i will bet you will find more wear in the cylinder and that is never good. when ever i rebuild my gokart racing motors i lube every bearing, bushing, ring, cylinder, etc. but i used regular motor oil with a 4 stroke and just some pre mix with a 2 stroke and when you bore or hone your cylinder you need to make shere you dont have any sharp edges on the ports or the ring could catch on the port and there went all your hard work down the drain