One other question. Sorry if im buggin yall! When I pull in my clutch an its in gear an I try tostart it it wont start. Its like my clutch isnt workin!?
hey everyone im new here!
- Thread starter allen Lawson
- Start date
One other question. Sorry if im buggin yall! When I pull in my clutch an its in gear an I try tostart it it wont start. Its like my clutch isnt workin!?
But when I put it in neutral it will kick
But when I put it in neutral it will kick
Porting it will be a great step up in power. But polishing generally (if at all) only takes place on the exhaust port to reduce surface area, which aims to reduce heat transfer from the exhaust gasses to the cylinder. This is generally left up to the builder. Decking or shaving the head is a waste of time to some. Go ahead and drop the money to get a good dome cut. It'll be cheap and well worth it.
Now if you get another filter and don't run an airbox lid, you'll have to play with your jetting. TBH, I'd check the main jet size while it's out to make sure it doesn't have a stage 7 jet kit or some other stupid mess in it. Also, get a pipe that suits your riding preference. If you ride woods, don't get a right bend pipe and tell the builder you need more peak power. Instead, get it running correctly and upgrade based on need. Check to make sure the reeds aren't cracked or chipped while you're at it.
If the previous owner did run it without a filter, there are no telling what else he's done to that thing. I'd clean the carb as well. So...
Carb cleaning and repair 101
(for those who just bought a new bike from people who don't run filters)
-Get thin metal cooking pan from your local grocery store (20 cents)
-Get a bottle of carb cleaner from Napa (it's the cheapest available and works just fine, $4)
-Get some pipe cleaners from your local hardware, gun, auto store (50 cents and up)
-Get some metal polish from Advance, O'Rileys, Auto Zone, etc. (<$10)
-Remove the slide and clean it till it makes you happy. Same with the top. Don't lose the rubber gasket. If it's like a lot of my recent carb cleanings, it has anti-seize on it and it needs to come off. Put the locking bracket and screw where you'll know where it's at.
-Use the correct size screwdriver and remove the 4 screws at bottom of the carb (note:use the correct screwdriver)
-Read the above step again to avoid stripping the screws by using the correct screwdriver
-Use a small screwdriver or equivalent to peel the gasket back with. Don't gouge anything, be careful.
-Remove the floats by sliding the pin out. The valve will be attached; pull it out with it. Don't bend anything. -Handle the floats as if they were made of your child's consciousness.
-Using the pan you purchased, bend a little hole in it that's roughly 2"x2"x2" and place the valve in it
-Remove the main jet. This is the 6mm thing in the center of the bottom of the carb. Place it in your little 8 cubic inch parts wash bowl.
-Remove your pilot jet by using applying a moderate amount of downward force. This is in the tube by the main jet location. It's right beside it. Place it in the cleaning area.
-Remove your choke. It's in the choke region. 10mm (IIRC) gets it off. Place it in the "to clean" pile.
-Turn your idle screw in until it stops. It's on the driver side of the carb when installed. REMEMBER HOW MANY TURNS IT TAKES TO TURN IT ALL THE WAY IN. Remember this to an accuracy of 1/8 turn.
-Take your idle screw out and pick the spring up off the ground. Place them in the don't lose place.
-Pour gas on your little pile of parts in the cooking pan
-Spray carb cleaner in every crack and crevice of the carb and break the pipe cleaners out. Clean the hell out of it.
-Take a q-tip and break it in half. Put it in a drill. Dip it in metal polish. Drill the float valve seat for 5-10sec. Don't do this with a drill bit like the previous owner/idiot of my 250R.
-Clean the float valve carefully but thoroughly. *I can't recall if it has a rubber coated tip...*
-Come back and clean everything again in 30 minutes.
-Reassemble.
-Turn your idle screw back in and screw it out until you get back to however many turns it was out. If you don't know how many that is, you skipped the big red step.
If your problem persists, Google how to set the floats.
Make sure that you put the locking bracket on the carb top. If it backs out, it'll mess with your jetting in a not so nice way. It'll keep your throttle open as well. Good luck if it ever comes all the way out.
Lastly, get some valve grinding compound and a window pane. Put some of the compound on the glass and spray some WD-40 on it for lube. Move the head, reed cage back, and reed gasket surface on the cylinder area on the glass in a figure 8 motion for a few minutes. This is an old Mac Dizzy trick that works very well for flattening surfaces.
Now if you get another filter and don't run an airbox lid, you'll have to play with your jetting. TBH, I'd check the main jet size while it's out to make sure it doesn't have a stage 7 jet kit or some other stupid mess in it. Also, get a pipe that suits your riding preference. If you ride woods, don't get a right bend pipe and tell the builder you need more peak power. Instead, get it running correctly and upgrade based on need. Check to make sure the reeds aren't cracked or chipped while you're at it.
If the previous owner did run it without a filter, there are no telling what else he's done to that thing. I'd clean the carb as well. So...
Carb cleaning and repair 101
(for those who just bought a new bike from people who don't run filters)
-Get thin metal cooking pan from your local grocery store (20 cents)
-Get a bottle of carb cleaner from Napa (it's the cheapest available and works just fine, $4)
-Get some pipe cleaners from your local hardware, gun, auto store (50 cents and up)
-Get some metal polish from Advance, O'Rileys, Auto Zone, etc. (<$10)
-Remove the slide and clean it till it makes you happy. Same with the top. Don't lose the rubber gasket. If it's like a lot of my recent carb cleanings, it has anti-seize on it and it needs to come off. Put the locking bracket and screw where you'll know where it's at.
-Use the correct size screwdriver and remove the 4 screws at bottom of the carb (note:use the correct screwdriver)
-Read the above step again to avoid stripping the screws by using the correct screwdriver
-Use a small screwdriver or equivalent to peel the gasket back with. Don't gouge anything, be careful.
-Remove the floats by sliding the pin out. The valve will be attached; pull it out with it. Don't bend anything. -Handle the floats as if they were made of your child's consciousness.
-Using the pan you purchased, bend a little hole in it that's roughly 2"x2"x2" and place the valve in it
-Remove the main jet. This is the 6mm thing in the center of the bottom of the carb. Place it in your little 8 cubic inch parts wash bowl.
-Remove your pilot jet by using applying a moderate amount of downward force. This is in the tube by the main jet location. It's right beside it. Place it in the cleaning area.
-Remove your choke. It's in the choke region. 10mm (IIRC) gets it off. Place it in the "to clean" pile.
-Turn your idle screw in until it stops. It's on the driver side of the carb when installed. REMEMBER HOW MANY TURNS IT TAKES TO TURN IT ALL THE WAY IN. Remember this to an accuracy of 1/8 turn.
-Take your idle screw out and pick the spring up off the ground. Place them in the don't lose place.
-Pour gas on your little pile of parts in the cooking pan
-Spray carb cleaner in every crack and crevice of the carb and break the pipe cleaners out. Clean the hell out of it.
-Take a q-tip and break it in half. Put it in a drill. Dip it in metal polish. Drill the float valve seat for 5-10sec. Don't do this with a drill bit like the previous owner/idiot of my 250R.
-Clean the float valve carefully but thoroughly. *I can't recall if it has a rubber coated tip...*
-Come back and clean everything again in 30 minutes.
-Reassemble.
-Turn your idle screw back in and screw it out until you get back to however many turns it was out. If you don't know how many that is, you skipped the big red step.
If your problem persists, Google how to set the floats.
Make sure that you put the locking bracket on the carb top. If it backs out, it'll mess with your jetting in a not so nice way. It'll keep your throttle open as well. Good luck if it ever comes all the way out.
Lastly, get some valve grinding compound and a window pane. Put some of the compound on the glass and spray some WD-40 on it for lube. Move the head, reed cage back, and reed gasket surface on the cylinder area on the glass in a figure 8 motion for a few minutes. This is an old Mac Dizzy trick that works very well for flattening surfaces.
