help fix my baby

It fires when I push start it down a hill but won't fire when I kick it

  • Air leak

    Votes: 1 100.0%
  • carburetor

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1
I am in suspicion of the compression as well. The oil tank is still hooked up and there is still a black tube going into my motor and coming out and into the carburetor. I'm assuming by that it's not deleted. Should I delete my oil injector?
 
I am in suspicion of the compression as well. The oil tank is still hooked up and there is still a black tube going into my motor and coming out and into the carburetor. I'm assuming by that it's not deleted. Should I delete my oil injector?
 
But when it does fire up it doesn't smoke a lot like I've seen on some blasters that are running lean. About the exhaust, what do you mean by no coupler?
 
there should be a rubber gasket on threaded part of compression gauge,also sometimes the relief valves on them stick ,fiddle with it...not sure about your comp gauge but mine i have to take gas tank off to get at it good,if the hose is to long on the comp gauge it could effect the reading:) the little plastic cover that the lines are going into injector pump,is easy to take off to make sure someone did not cut lines in there and leave the rest of it attached,if you were to take carb apart you you probably see some two stroke oil near reed side if pump is still working:)
this pic it is blocked off see the shiny metal:)
Blaster035.jpg
 
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So I should pop off my crankcase in ordered to check if my oil injectors were deleted?
 
I wouldnt worry about the oil injection yet. Get compression in the engine first. If you dnt have compression the oil injection doesnt mean diddly squat. If you have compression then leak test should be the very next test. Dont start the bike without leak testing it because you will just be hurting the motor even more if there is an air leak.
 
Any time the top end is assembled, the engine should be heat cycled. Which in your case we know you haven't, and no clue if previos owner did. Same as to the re-torque of the head and cylinder nuts. If it isn't done, it's very possible to have a leaking head gasket, which will give you zero compression. A leak down test will help diagnose that.

X-2 on oil pump delete, one thing at a time. You could/should pull hose from carb, or remove air cleaner boot and look in carb, and kick it over several time to ensureit is in fact pumping oil. Tho the pump rarely fails.

A Clymers Repair manual will be the best thing you can buy for it.
At least find the pdf download manual.
 
If you take it somewhere you will end up paying just as much as you paid for the bike your best bet would be to order a top end rebuild kit online which will cost you about a hundred dollars and it takes about two hours to do
 
No clue what it's even bored to so Idk what top end kit to get until saturday. So much for a 2 hr prooject!
 
I think my plans are to fix this one and either have a beater or sell it for a 400ex.
 
im thinking its the head gasket like everyone else has said leak test it and it will tell you if you don't it will start running really good then it will blow heres a vid on how to do it
and if it is a leaky head gasket you can do this
or just buy a new one and these bikes are supper easy to work on I think all you have to do to get the topend off is take 12 nuts off
 
I think my plans are to fix this one and either have a beater or sell it for a 400ex.
I wouldent sell it for a 400ex mine runs with a 400ex and walks away from anything under a 400ex like its sitting still but if your heart is set on getting a 4poke get a ltz/drz/kfx400 there all the same bike and they have a lot more power than a ex and there about the same price
 
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