HEAT problem? Front pipe and silencer rubber joint.. What to do?

Hi.

Im runing 95 unleaded .. yes the exhaust where complete kit.. Toomey B1.

Yes everything else seems normal? Start, idle and runing. . . . I have to make some more through test.. Like the plug test... We acutally put a brand new one in before the video run.. so shouldnt i be able to just take that off and check? Or does it have to be a fresh run! .. it has only runned that once the plug.. IF it were an airleak? where could that be? I just put new reeds gaskets and used locktite and torque on the bolts..

I will also try the jet, but could the airscrew have something to do about it? its at 1 1/2. ..


The funny things is I atucally already notices mis-coloring of the exhaust last ride before this one.. And that was with stock carb and Toomey jet.. But maybe the mis-coloring (blue, tanned chrome) is normal on a new pipe? This is at the very front and down at the exhaust that comes out of the cylinder ..
 
could be air screw 1 1/2 is just general rule of thumb. you could be more or could be less. you should start with new plug a br8 or b8 then start it up and do a plug chop at wot otherwise you will get a false reading. if you cut it out at wot and its white then your lean if it's black then your rich on your main . you want it a nice cardboard color. if you do that and it's correct main size then could be a/f mixture problem or an incorrect pilot jet.
 
could also be a possibility your carb is just too big for your setup and can't sufficiently pull the correct a/f metering through the carb. what are your mods?
 
custom2stroke:

whats plug chop at wot ? I mean wot?

Do you mean i run full throttle and hold the throttle then cut ignition and check plug?


My full specs are:

Vito´s Performance Stroker crank +3mm.
fresh bore and hone 68mm with intake ported and transfers cleaned..a little to the exhaust.
Wiseco high performance forged piston 68mm.
Head "dome" redesigned (bigger) and milled 0.035"
V-Force 3 Carbon Reedcage.
Toomey Racing B1 chrome exhaust
Toomey Racing airfilter NO LID ON BOX
Keihin PJ 34mm with 150 mainjet, 55 pilot, 3rd groove airscrew 1 1/2
 
*************UPDATE**************

I have just had some mails back and forth between Stuart Toomey! - the man himself from Toomey Racing.

He claims it is perfectly normal for this exhaust apparently to change color! (remember it was a brand new one!

Actually this is his own words:

They get yellow, then tan, then blue from heat. . . .

SO MAYBE its not as extensive as i thougt? I still have to make theese test though..
 
lassek said:
*************UPDATE**************

I have just had some mails back and forth between Stuart Toomey! - the man himself from Toomey Racing.

He claims it is perfectly normal for this exhaust apparently to change color! (remember it was a brand new one!

Actually this is his own words:

They get yellow, then tan, then blue from heat. . . .

SO MAYBE its not as extensive as i thougt? I still have to make theese test though..
Click to expand...

Yep after a while they start to brown at the header of the pipe even if you polish it after every ride it will still happen, mine is becoming a nice poo brown :-( . If its true chrome( like some higher end pipes are ) it will blue, if its TI it will become a rainbow of colors.

What I'd look for if my pipe was getting too hot is glowing, if your 2stroke pipe is glowing you have serious problems :o or maybe essesive blacking? I'm no expert though...
 
Its NOT glowing..You cannot see on it its hot - Its a expensive pipe.. the Toomey.. so im guessing its true chrome as its getting blue.. ill post a picture friday---

But yes.. it started brown later blue some spots..


Ti is crazy.. dont know anybody has it.. its really expensive.. cool though rainbow colorS! :D
 
some one said to change the plug... do that but DO NOT run a b8 or br8 those are stk heat range plugs, if heats your issue run a b9es or br9es is a colder plug
 
Yes i run a b9. which is a colder plug. it's if you have a decent modded engine. mine is 240 ,ported w 35 mm carb plus a +3 stroker ,head shaved .035. yes wot means run it wide open and kill it to correctly see what the main is showing on the plug. only way to accurately know where you are at on your main. every atv can be different so just going by what other people are running is not enough to be sure. stk means a stock plug which is a b8 or br8. I ran both but doesn't seem alot of difference but i also don't go on long rides either so that will make a difference.
 
yes the number would be something like that depending on spark plug brand. the r stands for resistor which if you have close neighbors and run the b9 instead of br9 they will hear your ignition noise come through radios etc.
 
Running a colder plug may help with detonation if that is a problem, but that doesn't seem to be the case. A colder plug will not likely affect exhaust temp much if at all.
The heat range of the plug just indicates its ability to dissipate heat. It does not make the engine run hotter or colder. A colder plug is more likely to foul than the correct heat range plug if it is not needed to combat detonation.
 
I have solved my problem!!! You are not gonna believe it! ..

It was NOT only due to a heat issue.. It was the rear silencer not mounted correctly..

The two pipes were only held together by the rubber joint! The 2 pipes were not in over eachother .. thats why it melted.. the burning exhaust gas ripped it..

So it got the two pipes together as they should over eachother.. new rubberjoint gasket..... so its completed perfect! the pipe has never sit this good..

AND I put a 155 mainjet in the carb ! .. It had NO problem whatsoever ..It fu**ing flies now! .. ITs insane! I am just surprised it pull this big jet ..


Thanks everyone.. !!!

Superb forum..
 
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