Head stud removel
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try heating the stud some with a torch. and get those nuts really tight together. they also make a stud remover tool. search it
no dont heat the stud..... heat the metal around it...... heating the stud will only make the stud expand and make it harder to come out.
if you heat the metal around it, the metal will expand and make it eaiser for the stud to come out.
nut on the stud - pop a wrench on -another nut and tighten down the top nut so it squeezes the wrench in between the two nuts nice n tight , than just tap the wrench with a hammer , can also notch the top of the stud and add in screwdriver and vice grips for added pressure
I hate to ask this, but why not pick up some new ones ? I dont think they cost a whole lot.
And I would think if they not coming out real easy. I would be worried about bending them and not having things sit on there right.
Sporty
And I would think if they not coming out real easy. I would be worried about bending them and not having things sit on there right.
Sporty
No studs in the head, you must mean cylinder?
Did you try with a wrench on each nut and squeezing them together?
Heat works because they are often locktited, as said, on the metal around, no more than what will smoke oil.
So, you have your nuts like this (no jokes please, this is serious):
Put your 2 wrenches on the nuts like this:
and squeeze the wrenches together as you turn.
Try a little propane heat on the cylinder face.
^Thats how I did it with good results for years.
Now I use a stud remover tool. Buy it once for $10-20 and have it forever.
A note on using a stud remover, make sure to slide it down as far on the stud as you can to lesson the chance of bending it.
Both ways are effective just a stud remover tool is easier and faster.
Alot of manuals advocate the double nut method. It's a tried and true way of doing it.
Now I use a stud remover tool. Buy it once for $10-20 and have it forever.
A note on using a stud remover, make sure to slide it down as far on the stud as you can to lesson the chance of bending it.
Both ways are effective just a stud remover tool is easier and faster.
Alot of manuals advocate the double nut method. It's a tried and true way of doing it.
Paul, does the stud remover leave any marks on the threads?
Can you find a picture of the type you use?
Steve
A new cylinder deserves new studs and nuts, the old ones are prolly stretched if they have been used a few times.
This is the type I use. It has 2 holes for lil or big size studs.
It leaves the threads in usable shape but I still recommend new studs.
You will need a pair of vice grips or a bench vise to get the remover off the stud especially if it was in there tight and that right there can cause thread damage.
You can see the cam that does the work on the bottom of the tool.
Basically it just wedges on there.
With the replies I have received I think it is in my best interest to go for the new studs, washers, nuts. Now... My next question, where is the best place to buy them. Bike bandit and parts fish seem a little pricy. $2.50 for a nut !!!! What is the size of the nut and washer required. I have a fastenal by me. I could probably pick them up there.
This is the type I use. It has 2 holes for lil or big size studs.
It leaves the threads in usable shape but I still recommend new studs.
You will need a pair of vice grips or a bench vise to get the remover off the stud especially if it was in there tight and that right there can cause thread damage.
You can see the cam that does the work on the bottom of the tool.
Basically it just wedges on there.
The only method I've ever used that leaves a usable stud is the "double nut" method.
I have one of those "cam" extractors and everytime I've used it, I've ended up with threads that were completely boogered. Granted, I usually wait to try that thing until it's an absolute last resort... but I've never had threads survive...
Kind of my experience as well James.
Same with slotting a stud for a screw driver, it has to me loose to let that work.
Clean threads, double nuts, double wrenches, squeeze them while turning.
The OEM (Original Equipment manufacturer) studs and nuts are very good quality and are under stressed.
If not damaged or misused they have a long life. My opinion.
Unless the stud has an area devoid of thread for the remover to grab, it will make any thread unuseable.
Although the OEM studs and nuts are high quality they can be stretched by overtightening, which often happens a lot by people not using a tension wrench on assembly.
Although the OEM studs and nuts are high quality they can be stretched by overtightening, which often happens a lot by people not using a tension wrench on assembly.
Yes but if you use the tool at the base of the stud, any threads damaged don't get used anyway. I've used it on case studs, head studs, and cylinder studs.
I actually had to buy this tool for a Banshee case stud that was janked up and cross threaded by the previous owner.
Yee ol vise grips couldn't get it out but this did.
I never said it was better but it's a good tool to have and you can never have too many tools.
I actually had to buy this tool for a Banshee case stud that was janked up and cross threaded by the previous owner.
Yee ol vise grips couldn't get it out but this did.
I never said it was better but it's a good tool to have and you can never have too many tools.
Never sleep on OEM Japanese stuff.
I've been told a stock banshee crank with a set of hotrods is just as good as any aftermarket crank of the same stroke.
You were not told that by me, just want to make that clear!
And I want to make it clear that most hardware store or parts store generic studs and nuts are usually inferior to OEM.
Most are just 8.8 strength (about grade 5), whereas you want 10.9 like this. (click link)
While we really don't need the strength on a Blaster head (aluminum will only take so much),
the threads are harder and resist damage and cross threading, especially on the stud.
By "Never sleep on OEM Japanese stuff" you mean to "always check it out", make sure of the quality and that it is undamaged?
I agree with you 100%!
Nope it sure wasnt you it was somebody who knows and rebuilds cranks.
Theres a guy running around with a turbo on his shee making 124hp on the stock crank.
Since were talkin OEM stuff I'll throw out another fact:
The backing plate on the stock banshee clutch basket is actually stronger then the one Hinson sells on their $900 clutch basket kit
By dont sleep I mean alot of times the stock stuff is of higher quality then some of the aftermarket stuff you just gottah know which ones.
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