has anyone seen this rear end??
- Thread starter phragle
- Start date
if I had the time... I was trying a couple years ago, had jigs and could do standard and roundhouse from stock to +4 with stock or long travel geometry (real 12") and was doing shocks and conversions for 250r and 400ex style shocks, complete with needle bearing bushings etc so they bolted right on, I was also shortening shocks for the front end so you could use yfz shocks etc without blowing balljoints. never got the volume to keep me busy, so now I am back in school.
movingit down and foreward changes the geometry and gives 10~15 inches of travel depending on the shock.
nahh im talkin is that a blaster with the chain on the right side i thought for sure it was on the left
on the stock a-arms, the yfz shocks are slighty too long, by compressing them a bit you can make them fit, but the shock is supposed to limit travel not the balljoint. when the balljoint limits travel it stresses it and wears prematurely and can fail. this usually results in a big painfull crash. Back in the early days when we were first playing with extended a-arms for 250 r's we used the stock 250 r upper balljoint on top and bottom but they would blow out on the bottom, resulting in some major pain. same type of situation. we then progressed to ford courier tie rod ends as ball joints, laeger used VW tie rod ends for a long time and funco used fiero upper balljoints as lowers.
damn you know your sh*t lol. i have bugard +2+1 a arms with there spindles and yfz450 front shocks. is that guna mess with the ball joints? the shock mounts ARE in the same possisions because there ment for shorter shocks. should i be shorteing my yfz shocks? i dont even know how thats done. cutting the spring?
does the shock bolt right on or do you have to lift the lower a-arm just a bit for the hole to line up?? if so your good. If you have to force the bolt in because the shock is to long thats bad. to shorten a shock you need to take it apart, remove the piston and place an appropriate size spacer in there. actuall pretty simple if you can work on shocks and have a lathe.
sh*t yeah i had to compress the shock to get the top bolt in. am i going to have problems? like it wasnt bad, it was about half inch to long and thats all i had to compress. i dont feel like shipping this bitches to the states to get it done but i dont think theres anyone here to do it. how do i know how much to remove from that spacer you said needs to be shortened?
take the spring off the shock, lift the front end in the air so the suspension hangs put top bolt in shock and extend it all the way, now compress is and put the bottom bolt on, take a sharpie marker and mark the shaft at the base of the shock body. pull the shock off and extend it measure from the mark you made to the shock body, add a 16th or so to the measurement and thats how far to shorten it. take shock and let the gas out of the air valve. turn shock upside down and put in a vise. dust cap on base of shock body should tap off fairly easily., pull it up and tape or ziptie it out of the way. take a small flat punch or socket extension and place it on the metal part of the seal head and tap the seal head into the shock untill you see the big metal circlip. CAREFULLY remove the circlip. pull up on shock shaft and it should now pull right out of the body. to remove the nut holding the piston on you may need to carefully dremel the top if it is peened to keep it from backing off. DO NOT get the valve shims out of order when you pull the piston off.
To make the spacer, go to the hardware store and get a piece of round stock delrin, drill a hole in the center then cut the spacer the correct length. (this is where the lathe comes in handy, you want to cut it perfectly flat. and machine/tool shop wll probably cut it for you for a buck or two) put spacer on shaft, reinstall piston with LOCKTITE RED on the nut, reassemble shock, then take it to the bike shop to get recharged.
To make the spacer, go to the hardware store and get a piece of round stock delrin, drill a hole in the center then cut the spacer the correct length. (this is where the lathe comes in handy, you want to cut it perfectly flat. and machine/tool shop wll probably cut it for you for a buck or two) put spacer on shaft, reinstall piston with LOCKTITE RED on the nut, reassemble shock, then take it to the bike shop to get recharged.
make sure you get all the air bubbles out of the oil when you put it together too... it's a short jump from there to changing the shock oil and replacing seals...then you get a nitrogen bottle and regulator off ebay and start doing your friends shocks for cheaper than the shop, and poof..your making money.
you should be able to completely service a set of front shocks in under an hour easily, use $5.00 in oil and nitrogen, and the shops charge what..$150 to freshen a set of fronts... $145 an hour isn't bad money.
you should be able to completely service a set of front shocks in under an hour easily, use $5.00 in oil and nitrogen, and the shops charge what..$150 to freshen a set of fronts... $145 an hour isn't bad money.
You should just sell the +2+1 and get +3+1 and they will be fine.If not Phragle just put out some great info for you.
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