going from yamalube to castor927
- Thread starter hheath93
- Start date
Castor does not like to mix with mineral oil.
Ideally all components should be flushed clean On my way! mineral oil before the introduction of Castor.
There is a cheat way around it but it will take at least 2 half tanks of fuel to do it.
Pre mix with a Semi Syn oil for 1/2 a tank, then a full Syn for another.
Then the traces of mineral oil should have been flushed away and it will be safe to mix 927.
I am not recommending it but I do know of a few guys that have made the transition from Yamalube to 927 , by just changing over without all the palava.
Their bikes are still running strong, maybe someone else who has done it will chime in.
Ideally all components should be flushed clean On my way! mineral oil before the introduction of Castor.
There is a cheat way around it but it will take at least 2 half tanks of fuel to do it.
Pre mix with a Semi Syn oil for 1/2 a tank, then a full Syn for another.
Then the traces of mineral oil should have been flushed away and it will be safe to mix 927.
I am not recommending it but I do know of a few guys that have made the transition from Yamalube to 927 , by just changing over without all the palava.
Their bikes are still running strong, maybe someone else who has done it will chime in.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Maxima-Supe...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3387447905&vxp=mtr
a man in a red/white/blue or brown truck will hand deliver it right to your door
works in all temps, even comes in an injection formula.
IMO....just say no to castor
a man in a red/white/blue or brown truck will hand deliver it right to your door
works in all temps, even comes in an injection formula.
IMO....just say no to castor
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Ahh, the great oil debate 
Same truck can bring you the good stuff http://www.ebay.com/itm/Klotz-BeNol...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a90cb85fc&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X2 stroke castor oil&_nkw=2 stroke castor oil&_sacat=0&_from=R40
Awk will have to ride at least 30 yrs after Blaaster or myself are dead to even catch up.
Same truck can bring you the good stuff http://www.ebay.com/itm/Klotz-BeNol...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a90cb85fc&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X2 stroke castor oil&_nkw=2 stroke castor oil&_sacat=0&_from=R40
Awk will have to ride at least 30 yrs after Blaaster or myself are dead to even catch up.
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ive used klotz benol. hated it. to much carbon built up. used yamalube. not bad, but lots of goo. ran some other brand up north cause i ran out of something at that time, blew up the bike. i run strickly amsoil now. still produces goo, but never an issue and it lubes up power valves well.. i always run 32:1 and jet for it.
straight from the Maxima 927 page on their website..................
I looked on quite a few synthetic pages and fail to see any "CAUTIONS"
may seperate from the fuel at temps below 35 degrees
(i've seen reports of seperation at below 50 degrees)
forget about cold weather riding ?
questions about mixing/seperation with race fuel ?
cannot be mixed in the fuel system with any other type of oil, so if you don't have it, you don't ride without flushing, what about whats laying in the bottom end ? how does it get flushed ? (it doesn't)
no injection formula
this antique oil formula does nothing todays new technology synthetic/blends can't do, yet falls short in some areas.
i can't see any reason anyone would run it over a synth, besides the smell or you're stuck in the '60's,
and i've yet to see anyone get a trophy for that
get informed about oil choice:
http://www.klemmvintage.com/oils.htm
http://www.foxvalleykart.com/oil1.html
http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/Cold-weather-2-stroke-oil-question,1245865
I looked on quite a few synthetic pages and fail to see any "CAUTIONS"
may seperate from the fuel at temps below 35 degrees
(i've seen reports of seperation at below 50 degrees)
forget about cold weather riding ?
questions about mixing/seperation with race fuel ?
cannot be mixed in the fuel system with any other type of oil, so if you don't have it, you don't ride without flushing, what about whats laying in the bottom end ? how does it get flushed ? (it doesn't)
no injection formula
this antique oil formula does nothing todays new technology synthetic/blends can't do, yet falls short in some areas.
i can't see any reason anyone would run it over a synth, besides the smell or you're stuck in the '60's,
and i've yet to see anyone get a trophy for that
get informed about oil choice:
http://www.klemmvintage.com/oils.htm
http://www.foxvalleykart.com/oil1.html
http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/Cold-weather-2-stroke-oil-question,1245865
If you can't understand directions, don't use it. Not all bean oils are the same. There are some that are injectable. A unique feature of castor is that as it gets hotter the molecular release actually increases lubricity. It also has a higher flash point.
Like I said, great oil debate.
Like I said, great oil debate.
"A piston seizure can only occur when something burns or scrapes away the oil film that exists between the piston and the cylinder wall. Understanding this, it's not hard to see why oils with exceptionally high film strengths are very desirable, and why maintaining a proper oil-presence is also desirable. Good quality oils can provide a film that stands up to the most intense heat and the pressure loads of a modern high output engine. Here again, we mention that “absolutely no oil” has a stronger film strength than castor based oils."
"Castor-based oils have been a favorite of high-performance tuners for more than a hundred years. In it’s most elemental form, it is the oil squeezed from Castor Beans and its not significantly different from the vile tasting stuff your grandmother used to cure constipation. That castor oil worked because it was, among other things, a pretty good lubricant. Guess what? It’ll make your engine go too! Today’s castor-based 2 cycle oils bring some extraordinary qualities to the table. Castor has by nature incredible film strength. That means it can resist tremendous pressure between 2 surfaces without being squeezed out and allowing the surfaces to touch. This is especially important in today’s highly stressed 2 cycle engines. The point of contact pressures on connecting rod bearings in particular are almost unimaginable at high RPMs. It’s the oil’s job to maintain a lubricating film on these surfaces as well as the main bearings, and the all-important piston-to-cylinder wall interface so that they never actually touch. Another of castor oil’s endearing qualities is what oil experts refer to as “wetting ability.”"
"So let’s see, castor oil “wets” very well, but it leaves a lot of carbon and gummy residue, you can’t run it when it’s cold out, and it tastes bed (trust me!). So why is it so popular with tuners and engine builders? Two words: IT WORKS. For consistently squeezing that last bit of performance out of your engine, it's pretty hard to beat castor oil as the lubricant in your fuel."
From these snippets of excerpts.
I am suitably convinced why I choose to run 25:1 Castor.
"Castor-based oils have been a favorite of high-performance tuners for more than a hundred years. In it’s most elemental form, it is the oil squeezed from Castor Beans and its not significantly different from the vile tasting stuff your grandmother used to cure constipation. That castor oil worked because it was, among other things, a pretty good lubricant. Guess what? It’ll make your engine go too! Today’s castor-based 2 cycle oils bring some extraordinary qualities to the table. Castor has by nature incredible film strength. That means it can resist tremendous pressure between 2 surfaces without being squeezed out and allowing the surfaces to touch. This is especially important in today’s highly stressed 2 cycle engines. The point of contact pressures on connecting rod bearings in particular are almost unimaginable at high RPMs. It’s the oil’s job to maintain a lubricating film on these surfaces as well as the main bearings, and the all-important piston-to-cylinder wall interface so that they never actually touch. Another of castor oil’s endearing qualities is what oil experts refer to as “wetting ability.”"
"So let’s see, castor oil “wets” very well, but it leaves a lot of carbon and gummy residue, you can’t run it when it’s cold out, and it tastes bed (trust me!). So why is it so popular with tuners and engine builders? Two words: IT WORKS. For consistently squeezing that last bit of performance out of your engine, it's pretty hard to beat castor oil as the lubricant in your fuel."
From these snippets of excerpts.
I am suitably convinced why I choose to run 25:1 Castor.
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