Gear oil in the tranny?
- Thread starter skoobyj
- Start date
What about AGL?
Well, I used to have a Polaris scrambler with an auto tranny and the polaris dealer ssid use only Their brand of fluid called AGL SYNTHETIC ATV GEARCASE LUBRICANT for that quad.
The quart says:
"friction reducing formulation, extreme pressure film protection for severe operating temperatures. Minimizes chain and gear wear while preventing rust, oxidation and corrosion of internal ATV transmission components".
Would this be good to use on the blasters manual transmission?
Thanks
If no can you recommend something from autozone that will be acceptable? I can't see any fluid in the little window even when I tip it so I want to put something in there.
**EDIT**
I just talked to the polaris dealer they say no don't use this for my blaster.
Called all the bike shops and the local suzuki dealer and they don't have bel ray or amsoil.
Called all the parts stores they all have motorcycle 10-40 for wet clutches. Going to buy some of that for now. I'll let you know what I go with.
Everyone talks about different weights, so i am so lost but I gotta get something in that tranny!
Just talked to another Yamaha dealer he said any 10-40 that is made for motorcycles or atv's will be fine and as a rule synthetic is better but it's up to me.
Off to the parts store I go!!
Well, I used to have a Polaris scrambler with an auto tranny and the polaris dealer ssid use only Their brand of fluid called AGL SYNTHETIC ATV GEARCASE LUBRICANT for that quad.
The quart says:
"friction reducing formulation, extreme pressure film protection for severe operating temperatures. Minimizes chain and gear wear while preventing rust, oxidation and corrosion of internal ATV transmission components".
Would this be good to use on the blasters manual transmission?
Thanks
If no can you recommend something from autozone that will be acceptable? I can't see any fluid in the little window even when I tip it so I want to put something in there.
**EDIT**
I just talked to the polaris dealer they say no don't use this for my blaster.
Called all the bike shops and the local suzuki dealer and they don't have bel ray or amsoil.
Called all the parts stores they all have motorcycle 10-40 for wet clutches. Going to buy some of that for now. I'll let you know what I go with.
Everyone talks about different weights, so i am so lost but I gotta get something in that tranny!
Just talked to another Yamaha dealer he said any 10-40 that is made for motorcycles or atv's will be fine and as a rule synthetic is better but it's up to me.
Off to the parts store I go!!
Last edited:
weights are just the viscosity ratings. the numbers are how viscous the oil is at cold temp and at operating temp.
synthetic is good to use as long as the bike isn't too old. if it's an older bike and it's only had conventional in it it's whole life, then the synthetic might be bad for the gaskets.
synthetic is good to use as long as the bike isn't too old. if it's an older bike and it's only had conventional in it it's whole life, then the synthetic might be bad for the gaskets.
nope it does not. i get the bel ray that is meant for 2 strokes. its a real nice thick oil that stays thick when its warm. I have never had a problem with it.I:II:II:I
i use royal purple 10W40.
any oil will work. just look on the back of the bottle and make sure there isnt a seal/stamp on it that says its a "energy conserving" or "power saving" oil. those oils have molybendium in them to make them more slick. molybendium causes clutch slippage in a wet clutch setup. those types of oil are only designed for car engines where a clutch isnt bathing in oil
any oil will work. just look on the back of the bottle and make sure there isnt a seal/stamp on it that says its a "energy conserving" or "power saving" oil. those oils have molybendium in them to make them more slick. molybendium causes clutch slippage in a wet clutch setup. those types of oil are only designed for car engines where a clutch isnt bathing in oil
My neighbor had a quart of yamalube 20-50 i used that but I bought Mobil one racing 4T fully synthetic 10-40 it says it's good for wet clutches, motorcycle transmission and engines it was $9.99 at autozone. My neighbor only paid $3.99 for his yamalube.
I found that my case is cracked in front of the drive sprocket. Someone put jb weld on it.
I found that my case is cracked in front of the drive sprocket. Someone put jb weld on it.
My neighbor had a quart of yamalube 20-50 i used that but I bought Mobil one racing 4T fully synthetic 10-40 it says it's good for wet clutches, motorcycle transmission and engines it was $9.99 at autozone. My neighbor only paid $3.99 for his yamalube.
I found that my case is cracked in front of the drive sprocket. Someone put jb weld on it.
You won't have much luck at a polaris dealership, but any other place that sells 2 stroke bikes will have gearbox oil that will do the trick. Some are a little better than others, and certain weights work better for people depending on what they do with their blasters and what climate they live in. For most, any gearbox oil will do just perfectly!!
About the cracked case infront of the sprocket...that sux! I had that happen to me a bunch of times when I was younger and didn't know how to keep the chain properly tightened....and I think it always happened with a non O-ring chain. Do you have an O-ring chain on there?? The non O-ring chains wear out WAY faster than O-ring ones...and as a result get loose more quickly and are more likely to hop off the front sprocket and hit the case.
If the JB weld is holding it, just keep the chain tight and keep riding! If it's not holding, just buy a new side case and gasket and replace it. Keep a good O-ring chain on there, keep it tight, and you won't have the problem again.
the reason 80w isnt to thick is because its tranny oil the SAE rates transmission oil and engine oil differently so where 80w engine oil would be very thick the tranny oil is much thinner
and oh yeah one more vote for Bel-ray
and oh yeah one more vote for Bel-ray
Well it had an old worn out oring chain and when I first rode it i noticed the chain was crazy tight so i loosened and oiled it up and that's when it came off, but it just dropped right to the ground (seems the masterlink came off). I was barely moving. It was saturday so i ran to the local susuki (yamaha is over an hour away) dealership and got a 250 masterlink came all the way back and the posts on the masterlink were a hair too short so i took my chain and the masterlink back and asked them to have the tech fix the chain but he was gone for the day so I bought a new non oring chain. It fell off once but I think that was because my quad is missing the two chain adjusters off the back so it was getting loose and tight at will (I didn't know there was anything missing). and the seller told me all it needed was a rider.
I also found out it is missing all the chain guides and rollers too. I was looking at blaster pics when I noticed mine was missing some things.
How hard is itto change the case where the chan cracked it? Don't i have to take the whole engine apart?
Thanks for your help!!
You cant fix it with the motor together. have to take it all apart. You can get that welded, but you have to have it all apart and clean. a non o-ring chain is fine. i have one and there are no problems. take care of the thing.
if you do not have the rear chain guide all your chain is going to do is fall off. when you jump, or ride rough terain, and the swinger drops all the way down the cahin become really loose and weill just jump right off.
i had an o-ring chain break on me and it cracked the case infront of the sprocket. i Just used JB weld to seal it up. have yet to have a problem. i hade a good size peice missing out of the case.
the top and bottom rollers on the blaster are just to prevent alot of chain slap. there is also a white plastic "roller" on the swingarm (where the long bolt attaches it to the fame" that spins,but that is more to proteck the swingarm.
just make sure you have the rear chain guide. its white and plastic. that is number one, and dont buy stock OEM chain rollers. they are crap. spend the money on some from TM Design or a company like that.
if you do not have the rear chain guide all your chain is going to do is fall off. when you jump, or ride rough terain, and the swinger drops all the way down the cahin become really loose and weill just jump right off.
i had an o-ring chain break on me and it cracked the case infront of the sprocket. i Just used JB weld to seal it up. have yet to have a problem. i hade a good size peice missing out of the case.
the top and bottom rollers on the blaster are just to prevent alot of chain slap. there is also a white plastic "roller" on the swingarm (where the long bolt attaches it to the fame" that spins,but that is more to proteck the swingarm.
just make sure you have the rear chain guide. its white and plastic. that is number one, and dont buy stock OEM chain rollers. they are crap. spend the money on some from TM Design or a company like that.
