Fuel Delivery issues
- Thread starter camoKILLSHOT
- Start date
try this :http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/easy-and-almost-free-way-to-stop-leaky-carbs.33335/
Also is an O-ring between seat and carb body that may leak. I would just get new needle and seat rather than rebuild kit.
Float level is critical.
Also is an O-ring between seat and carb body that may leak. I would just get new needle and seat rather than rebuild kit.
Float level is critical.
I cleaned the o ring and the needle already like that post says and im going to try adjusting the floats tomorrow
Well, seeing that you are still working on it :
The "hole" the needle valve sits in is the emulsion tube/main jet holder. There are small holes on the side of it that need to be open. Remove main jet and slide and gently tap/drive it out from main jet side. When I clean a carb I like to ensure that I can blow air through all passages.
As to the TORS, even if you don't do the cap and cable, disable the "brain", pre 03 you unplug the "brain" box under the hood. 3 wire plug. 03+ search how to do it. IF it were in perfect condition, it's ok, but you're talking a system that's at least 9yrs old and may be 28yrs old.
The "hole" the needle valve sits in is the emulsion tube/main jet holder. There are small holes on the side of it that need to be open. Remove main jet and slide and gently tap/drive it out from main jet side. When I clean a carb I like to ensure that I can blow air through all passages.
As to the TORS, even if you don't do the cap and cable, disable the "brain", pre 03 you unplug the "brain" box under the hood. 3 wire plug. 03+ search how to do it. IF it were in perfect condition, it's ok, but you're talking a system that's at least 9yrs old and may be 28yrs old.
It is not a matter of liking the idle where it is, it has to be correct or the engine may not perform well in the lesser throttle openings!
the floats are at 20 mm and the needle valve is acting as it should.
all of the jets are clear of dirt and the carb is completely clean.
the fuel is clean and flowing freeley from a clean gas can.
the spark is good due to new coil and plug.
the compression seems good even though i cant properly test it.
It will run for about 10 seconds and it smokes blue/white and smells like fuel.
i can get it to start a few times in a row after a few kicks each.
i still have no idea if i have this tors idle screw adjusted right.
all of the jets are clear of dirt and the carb is completely clean.
the fuel is clean and flowing freeley from a clean gas can.
the spark is good due to new coil and plug.
the compression seems good even though i cant properly test it.
It will run for about 10 seconds and it smokes blue/white and smells like fuel.
i can get it to start a few times in a row after a few kicks each.
i still have no idea if i have this tors idle screw adjusted right.
But to adjust the idle the way it says in post 18 doesnt it have to run good first? Maybe i misunderstood something.
Is there a way to post or link a video to here? Maybe if you guys saw and heard what it was doing you might be able to help me pinpoint the problem.
Update: i took the gas can off for reasons irrelevant but when i put it back on i forgot to turn the petcock valve on. I started the four wheeler and it ran perfectly it even idled but then i remembered to turn the gas on. As soon as i did that it started to smoke and lose power. I tried to turn the petcock half off but it died before i found the sweet spot
. do you guys think openinh up the air screw more will fix it or do you still think it is the o ring and the seat?
Update: i took the gas can off for reasons irrelevant but when i put it back on i forgot to turn the petcock valve on. I started the four wheeler and it ran perfectly it even idled but then i remembered to turn the gas on. As soon as i did that it started to smoke and lose power. I tried to turn the petcock half off but it died before i found the sweet spot
. do you guys think openinh up the air screw more will fix it or do you still think it is the o ring and the seat?
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i still want to see pics of your carb both sides
but you are chasing this carb problem that maybe another issue.
low compression/bad reeds the list goes on
you replaced ignition coil and plug?
what type of coil and what type of plug?
get or rent borrow a comp gauge/and check the reed petals
but you are chasing this carb problem that maybe another issue.
low compression/bad reeds the list goes on
you replaced ignition coil and plug?
what type of coil and what type of plug?
get or rent borrow a comp gauge/and check the reed petals
I got just a cheap coil from amazon and a cheap plug from napa. i will get some pics in about a half hour i keep forgetting sorry. Ill do some looking into the reeds and see if that is my problem sometime maybe tomorrow or today if im not exhausted by then
soo
throw the b9es away it is a colder plug get a b8es know!
the clamp on airbox side is not on right unless you obvously have taken it off a million times,but
get ngk b8es plug
put clamp on the carb boot the right way,also you are missing the locking tab for the top cover it will come loose and not a good idea get it or put it back on
your missing all of the overflow hoses? unless you did not put them back on?
throw the b9es away it is a colder plug get a b8es know!
the clamp on airbox side is not on right unless you obvously have taken it off a million times,but
get ngk b8es plug
put clamp on the carb boot the right way,also you are missing the locking tab for the top cover it will come loose and not a good idea get it or put it back on
your missing all of the overflow hoses? unless you did not put them back on?
Ok thanks ill get a new plug tomorrow.
the airbox clamp is loose because i got sick of loosening it every time i had to take the cauburetor off so ill fix that once it works lol.
The overflow hoses on the sides were missing when i got it as well as the locking tab on the top.
the overflow hose on the bottom literally cracked off when I tried to take the carb out one of these times.
that means that the plug in it when i got it was wrong too because i just took the old plug to napa and he got me the same exact thing. Glad i know that now
the airbox clamp is loose because i got sick of loosening it every time i had to take the cauburetor off so ill fix that once it works lol.
The overflow hoses on the sides were missing when i got it as well as the locking tab on the top.
the overflow hose on the bottom literally cracked off when I tried to take the carb out one of these times.
that means that the plug in it when i got it was wrong too because i just took the old plug to napa and he got me the same exact thing. Glad i know that now
im mostly sure the oil system works fine i keep noticing oil in places like if i take the hose off its slowly drips out but i havent really been checking it that closely.
Don't know where you are taking hose off at, but if you have been taking it off at the pump, I would suggest to properly bleed the system. The only "safe" place would be at the carb. IIRC, you would kick the engine over and little bit of oil would come out. Maybe in spurts. 
