Front brake lever adjustment

[jumpo]

Hey guys

My front brake on my blaster needs to be pulled all the way in before it does anything. I checked the manual and it says for adjustment take it to the dealer (it was just at the dealer and they are useless)

Does anyone happen to know where I could find instructions on how to fix it? Tried googling but couldn't find anything

Thanks everyone!

 

[Bluesman]

I see by your other post, you have an 04. Hydraulic disc brakes are self adjusting. There is an adjustment on the lever, but you shouldn't have to mess with that. It just adjusts the free play between the lever and the piston. You probably have air in the system. You need to bleed the brakes. That should take care of it. If that doesn't help, you may need to rebuild the master cylinder.

 

[Blaaster]

If you have run low in fluid, you will have to fill and bleed the air out.

 

[jumpo]

Thanks heaps for the helpful info guys

 

[jumpo]

Got the brake sorted out I don't suppose anyone would know where to buy main jets online? preferably in australia, I'm looking to take the airfilter lid off and read I'll probably need a 240. Are they all the same or do I need a specific blaster one?

 

[Larry's Shee]

Only place I know of in Oz http://www.twostrokeshop.com/

Blaaster should know

 

[Blaaster]

I buy my stuff offshore.

Where are you in Oz jumpo?

If you are taking the lid off you need to up 2 sizes.

What other mods do you have?

 

[jumpo]

I'm in se QLD, in the middle of nowhere really so buying online is easier for me

I ended up finding this site that have the correct item I think? about $10 posted
http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/products/mikuni-main-jet-hex

Hopefully I'm looking at the right part. So I believe the stock is a 230, you would recommend a 250 Blaaster? I'm going to buy this uni filter too. Yamaha Blaster YSF200 1988-2006 UNI Foam Air Filter

Bike is stock, only disabled the TORS, will be disabling the oil injection in the coming weeks

 

[Blaaster]

If you are considering taking off the oil injection, think again.

If you do change to pre mix you will need a #260 main.

With a Uni filter maybe up one or two sizes more.

I am near the QLD border, we need to meet up sometime.
What town are you near?

 

[jumpo]

thanks for all this info. Alright so, remove oil injection, add uni filter, remove airbox lid, and I'll be at 270 you think? I can buy 2/3 to try out, so maybe 260/70/80 ?

I'm kind of near Toowoomba but I'm not much of a people person

 

[Blaaster]

Leave the oil injection well alone, it will serve you well, keep the tank full, bleed it if you flip it, keep clean.

The injection system is perfectly realiable .

Plug chop a #270 and adjust if necessary.

I have relatives that live in Toowoomba, I am only about 3 hours away, we should meet sometime.

 

[jumpo]

Alrighty, there seems to be lots of people who say to remove it. Shall try a 270 then. Thanks again

 

[Blaaster]

The only good reasons for removing the oil injection system are.

Choosing an oil which is unsuitable for injection.

Fitting a carb which does not comply.

Poor memory, not checking if there is oil in the tank.

Inability to promote cleanliness.

Continual flipping, which requires bleeding of the system.

 

[jumpo]

I don't do any of them so I'll definitely leave it alone

Though is there actually specific types of 2 stroke oil for injection? I have just been using plain 2 stroke motorbike oil, hopefully it is alright

 

[Blaaster]

The oil must be designed for air cooled motorcycles, and be suitable for onjection.

No weed whacker, chain saw, outboard oils.