FMF manifold leak. will it HURT the bike??

Demo4o1

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Jan 29, 2011
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I have the FMF gold series FATTY and tunbinecore2. the guy i bought it from sum how rigged the exhuast. theres a leak in the manifold. hopefully just the gasket but it looks like it welded or maybe thats just he way it is. also, where the pipe connects to the fatty, was cemented and tied with rubber hoses. (WTF?) so i tore it all out and was gonna use the rubber stock 1 with the clamps on each end but the pipe isnt long enough to reach the fatty. theres like a steel adaptor. i guess i need another 1 of those rubber seals that came with the exhaust? idk what its called or where to get it. what should i do guys?? will this hurt the motor if i keep riding it like that? also the middle where all the cement is, is also leaking a lil. but the leaks aint bad though. i'll take sum pics tmrw and post!!:(
 
Leak after the head pipe is not a problem but a leak right at the gasket between the engine and head pipe is bad. It is just like and air leak and will mess with your jetting and possibly fry your piston sooner than later. Just get a new on eof those gaskets and itll be fine.
 
Yea I wanna buy a gasket but id have to break away all that cement bond in the middle to get the fatty off. So I will have to repair that 2 when I put it back together. I just need to find out where I can get that rubber clamp. I tried high temp exhaust wrap patch but it doesn't hold for more than a day. So in order for me to fix the head leak (motor to exaust) I have to rip apart the cement and exhaust wrap patch to fix the middle too. FML! Sucks!!!
 
Well once you break it apart and full take it apart you can put it back together right. I dont think it should have that many leaks for an aftermarket setup but then again ive never had an fmf. Another thought I had was after your putting it back on try some high heat exhaust tape to try and seal the leak between the header and silencer. This should also help quiet it.
 
tear it all off, use high temp copper rtv to seal the flange the the head, reinstall the header with a little of the rtv to seal the pipe to the flange, wiping off all excess rtv while still wet, so it doesnt look so bad,
then i'm thinkin you have the wrong silencer for the head pipe if it isnt reaching to couple the whole way, in that case i would couple them completely, then rework a small mounting extension in the back to get it to bolt up, short piece of 1 inch steel or aluminum will work, but it has to be coupled right first, a lil rtv will work inside that coupling also, or rubber hose and clamps
 
i have some red heat temp silicone idk if thatll work. but heres sum pics i just took. the rubber tube thingy is the 1 that came with the fatty when u buy it. since like u said my turbinecore2 pipe wasnt made to fit it i guess so the guy i bought it from had this adaptor for them two to fit in with cement bond and radiator hoses but i ripped it out and tried this as pictured. so, i guess i need a new o ring for the front right, and im gonna lay a layer of the red silicone too, and i need another one of that rubber clamp which I DO NOT know what its called or where to get it from. i searched everywhere but no luck
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well seeing that bike and how nice it is makes this a damn shame to be rigging stuff like this, i woulda figured these riggins on a ratty ass bike,
real solution is sale that silencer and get the proper one for that head pipe, what you have there is never gonna last, and just looks too ratty for that bike

bikebandit.com sales them couplers

and from my experience...jbweld sucks, and should have never been used there, it cant take the heat
 
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i know it breaks my heart! :'( i bought it kinda sh*tty looking and i had this for like 1.5 weeks and brought it back to life. so yes i do wanna do it the right way., hate to have to a whole new pipe tho but if i really have to i will. i just wanna get that rubber clamp i know with that it will work and wont look like a half ass job
 
that rubber clamp is not the cure for a mismatched pipe/silencer, the silencer is too short to completely couple with the head pipe,
you need the silencer that goes with that pipe, i know thats a sh*tty deal on fmf's part and just part of their game to sale more stuff, imo...all fmf pipes and silencers should interchange, but thats not how big company's become giants, they do that by forcing us to buy unnecessary parts, which is what you need, the correct silencer for that pipe, you should have no troubles selling that silencer to get the correct one, that is if ya didn't booger it all up with jb weld
 
well i can tap out all the weld like i did b4 from the previous owner and buff it out make it look real puuurty but in some small spots the poor thing shows signs of rust. i can still buff it out i think. but im sure this pipe WAS meant to fit blasters but idky it doesnt match the fatty. like u said prolly a market thing. i heard the powercore is good but the turbocore2 (1 i have) cost more. what if i buy the powercore2 and it TOO is short?? im gambling here. which is y i figure i get another one if that rubber thing and put a new gasket on the exhaust head. i know the silencers are pretty cheap on ebay but like i said its a gamble unless u know for a FACT it will fit mine. sry im just a noOb tryna tune this right
 
i would get the whole system off the bike, get good individual pics of each piece, then someone on here that is way more familiar with the fmf stuff than me, could tell you if they look factory, if someone has modded/cut them ????
and if it wasn't for a blaster, that head pipe wouldnt fit at all, i think you're good there, jus the wrong silencer for that pipe
 
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it should fit. the only fmf silencers that dont interchange with every fmf part is the sst stuff, which you dont have

+1 they all interchange.
The fit can be really picky though. Sometimes you can loosen the mounts on both and fit it together then tighten it all down. What I have done on some mix matched exhaust systems is, find a piece of coolant hose/heatcore hose from the scrap yard and use that as a joint seal between the pipe and silencer. I installed a Gnarly pipe years ago onto a stock silencer and had a 1/2" gap between the two pipes. The heater hose worked perfect with a couple clamps.
The rubber exhaust bushing for my YZ400 was N/A from the mfg so I did the same with it. worked great
 
i don't know if i'm right or not but this is what it appears to be to me. you have a fmf gold series fatty header, and your silencer is too short, so you might have the turbinecore sst silencer instead of the turbinecore that goes with the fatty. i am not positive but it makes the most sense out of everything else i've thought of. i know i got both my fmf gold series fatty and my powercore 2 silencer off ebay and they fit perfectly with no problems, so in my mind you MUST have a sst silencer instead of the fatty silencer.
 
Ya i dont know much about the fmf pipes so I couldnt really tell the man if some parts were wrong. But I like awks idea. When i fix something i fix it right were it will look good.
 
The head does looks like it was meant for the bike (FMF fatty gold series), as for the silencer (turbinecore2)that also looks like it was meant for the bike. All the bolts match up just right only there's like 1.5 inch gap and that's pretty big. When i 1st got it the guy had cement bond and radiator hose and it just looked hidious and still had a leak. That's what made me rip it all apart then that's when I noticed the steel adaptor thing which was barely long enough to even fill the gap. So I thought of drilling new bracket mounts and basically pushing the silencer closer to close the gap but even that would look half ass. I was gonna buy the muffler bracket ot what not from autozone but I don't want it to look like a half ass job. I guess my next best bet is order the head exhaust gasket (which is the best? Saw a namura topend set on ebay for 15 bucks) and when it comes in I rip the whole exhaust off and buy a radiator hose. Atleast with that it won't look such half assed and I won't have to buy a new silencer....or should i? Hmm. I'll post better pics of the exhaust when I get home
 
one other thought, do you have the pipe hanger on there, or is it bolted straight to the flange on the frame, lowering it down with the stock hanger could make up the difference needed ?????
 
The silencer has the two bolts that bolts on to the frame perfect. There's no leverage to push it in to fill the gap when its bolted even if its loose. There's like a 2 inch gap if I remove the adaptor and bond. So far the leak isn't bad at all I just wanna fix everything that's wrong with it. Call it OCD. Lol. I'm gonna take sum pics for u guys when I get to my garage better yet a vid. but I'm stuck babysitting at the moment