FMF Exhaust vs. DMC Exhaust

blaster333

blaster333

New Member
Jul 10, 2010
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Pennsylvania
Hey I was looking at the DMC Exhaust and the FMF Exchaust for the yahama blaster.

If I got the DMC I would also get the standard Powerpack which contains a jet kit with an air filter with a prefilter and a recharge kit to clean your air filter. For the DMC $329.95 + 128.95 (for the kit)= $458.90 total without a spark arrestor.

If I got the FMF I would get the Fatty pipe with the TurbineCore 2 with a jet kit. Fatty pipe $229.99 + 149.99(TurbineCore 2) + 59.95(jet kit)=$439.93 total with a spark arrestor...
(but I have to buy the K and N air filter,prefilter and the clean kit seperate)which isn't going to be even close to what I could get the DMC for) Acutally I checked it out and to get the K and N airfilter, pre airfilter and the cleaning kit is $76.87 total so I would pay $516.80 for the FMF vs. $458.90 for the DMC.
(personally I don't care about the apark arrestor and I could live without it)
Please give me your advice on these two exhaust's based on their price and their quality and personal experence. Thanks
 
i usually dont recomend power pros but for the money thats what you should get and feel you will be alot happier. and besides that you have room to build and mod your motor with it also. so keep that in mind when you buy a pipe always buy a pipe you can grow with. you'll save money in the end.
 
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ya tbbh don't buy a fmf new. If you want a fmf get a used one off of ebay, and buy the jets you need, and a new uni filter is like 20 bucks I think, and is way better than a k&n. If I was buying a new exhaust I would go with a toomey, power pros, dynoport, etc. Different pipes also have different power characterists so keep that in mind when you are buying a pipe.
 
But if you really want the DMC, here's the good price. $264, smokin deal. (also available on DMC website)

DMC Alien Full ATV Exhaust System with Anodized Muffler for Yamaha YFS200 Blaster

I just checked out their Power Kit too. It would be kinda nice to have a K&N (diff from stock replacement style), pre-filter, jet kit, etc, all as one uniform kit, especially for a noob. Looks like DMC is doing it right.
 
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okay guys, i drag raced my brother(2001, stock pipe, custom silencer, no toil filter, drilled air box, recently overhauled with new rings, bored 0.5mm over 260jet, 14/40 gears, 21" rear tyres) aginst my bike(2004, dmc pipe, drilled airbox, uni airfilter 300jet, stock bore as far as i know,14/40 gears 20" rear tyres) and he beat me...its got nothing to do with rider error this is really just the bikes performance....how on earth does an unpiped bike beat mine?
 
Compression test both bikes I'd say his has more than yours because his recent rebuild also he may have porting done. But compression test and see if you could do with a rebuild I thought my bike was going well when I compression tested it I learnt it probaly wouldn't pull itself out of bed lol
Also probaly a good idea to do a leak test while your there
 
ruairiyblaster said:
Compression test both bikes I'd say his has more than yours because his recent rebuild also he may have porting done. But compression test and see if you could do with a rebuild I thought my bike was going well when I compression tested it I learnt it probaly wouldn't pull itself out of bed lol
Also probaly a good idea to do a leak test while your there
Click to expand...

He definatly doesnt have porting....here in SA itsa mission to get porting done. I was thinking it might be my compression, at what level of comp would u need new rings? P.s im highly annoyed that his bike beats mine cz I did a lot of the overhaul work, my dad did the rest. My dad doesnt particularly believe in the leak test, plus I dont have a leak down tester anyways, but this engine has never bn open so I doubt it cld be leaking....
 
Anything under 120psi should really be rebuilt if its way lower than that a fresh bore will probaly be called for aswell. Also if your going to put the money into a topend then not leak test it your crazy! Look at them heads in the forsale section that $40 my help you beat him
 
ruairiyblaster said:
Anything under 120psi should really be rebuilt if its way lower than that a fresh bore will probaly be called for aswell. Also if your going to put the money into a topend then not leak test it your crazy! Look at them heads in the forsale section that $40 my help you beat him
Click to expand...

Doubt anyone will ship heads out to africa....heavy missions...but thanks for the advice.
 
I live in uk and I 'doubted' people would ship stuff here I've had a full exhaust shipped, carb parts and hopefully two top ends soon all posted over but that head is a good mod shoot him a pm and see what the costs are
 
Larger tyres, rider weight also come into the equasion.

Also the following could help solve the problem.

Compression test, plus,

Plug chop.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/

This is a good to go plug.

2wr2fwo.jpg



This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.

plug152mainmediumoi2.jpg



You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet curcuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.



14mqc1y.jpg
 
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my bike was probably at peak performance with the 290 jet, i switched to a 300 to be a tad on the rich side, but my carb tuning work is done, i think new rings are probably gonna be neccessary, lol, i hope its new rings and not something else, my bike should never be outperformed by my brothers
 
If I was you I'd just put a pro x piston kit in while I was there they are a good piston and are affordable also give the jug a hone you could even tidy your ports up slightly. Replace gaskets new plug and do your heat cycles
 
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