Exhaust spitting out oil
- Thread starter jlgray81
- Start date
another thing could be your muffler packing is all nasty with oil, my dirt bike when i got it was blowing 2-stroke oil all over the place from the soaked muffler
but that doesnt smell bad or smoke more then normal
but that doesnt smell bad or smoke more then normal
Yes, you need the puller to remove the flywheel, and the holder to install it...
You might be able to rig up a strap to hold it while tightening, but $17 for a tool that will be handy for all engines isnt much
Just for sh*ts!! Since you haven't had the bike very long..is your oil pump disconnected? Your not mixing gas and pumping oil both right? Probably not but I didnt read that it was removed
Save yourself some time, money, and aggrevation. Listen to what they told you above, Change crank seals, Leakdown test, and enjoy!
Ok, first of all, REPLACE THE EXHAUST GASKET...
Did you remove the pipe for some reason? They usually start leaking after removing the exhast flange.
Any leak here WILL have performance issues. The exhaust (front section) must be 100% sealed/leak proof.
Then, the burning oil issue/smoking issue. 2strokes DO/must smoke... mine always smokes, even if warm.
But you will have to check that oil level, to rule out a faulty tranny seal.
The window is not very reliable to monitor level though. Sometimes looks overfull when standing for a long time, then empty when just stopped, sometimes 1/2, sometimes 3/4 after standing a few minutes.
Best is to drain, and add exactly 650ml of CORRECT (no friction modifiers) oil.
If the level does seem to drop substantially (visually), drain and measure the oil.
Did you remove the pipe for some reason? They usually start leaking after removing the exhast flange.
Any leak here WILL have performance issues. The exhaust (front section) must be 100% sealed/leak proof.
Then, the burning oil issue/smoking issue. 2strokes DO/must smoke... mine always smokes, even if warm.
But you will have to check that oil level, to rule out a faulty tranny seal.
The window is not very reliable to monitor level though. Sometimes looks overfull when standing for a long time, then empty when just stopped, sometimes 1/2, sometimes 3/4 after standing a few minutes.
Best is to drain, and add exactly 650ml of CORRECT (no friction modifiers) oil.
If the level does seem to drop substantially (visually), drain and measure the oil.
O yes, my above post looks like the leak down test is not as important... Well, it IS!!!
It actually is the most important test to do for 2pokes. Life or death of your motor is determined on the outcome (even if its riding fine now).
And leakdown would also pick up a faulty oil seal...
But the exhaust MUST still be fixed!
It actually is the most important test to do for 2pokes. Life or death of your motor is determined on the outcome (even if its riding fine now).
And leakdown would also pick up a faulty oil seal...
But the exhaust MUST still be fixed!
I'm going to replace that seal, and get the exhaust fixed. I believe I'm going to only change clutch side beings that's the issue. Not the stator side.
That will solve the problem now, but the stator side crank seal is sneaky. When it leaks, it doesn't give off stinky smoke, and is a silent timebomb. When you do a leakdown test, that stator side might be bad too.
Just change them both now. Then you know they are both good, and the stator side is actually a bit easier to change, But you need a flywheel puller.
If you plan on having your blaster for awhile, the flywheel puller will come in handy, and isn't much of an investment.
I'm not trying to tell you what to do, but I want you to get the most out of your blaster with the least amount of headaches.
Oh I definitely want it to last. The stator side will be when the flywheel puller comes in play, right? I'll change them both. I don't need that stator side to sneak up on me considering you said its sneaky
Yep, the stator side will require the flywheel puller to get to it.
The stator side being bad isn't going to give you a bad oil burning smell like the clutch side will. Thats why I said Its sneaky. A leakdown test will find it. Buy or build a leakdown tester. Awk sells them, or you can build one yourself. Its the best tool you can have for keeping your blaster running great, and will prevent alot of problems when used as needed.
Just change them both, keep reading up on here, and you blaster will last you along time.
The stator side being bad isn't going to give you a bad oil burning smell like the clutch side will. Thats why I said Its sneaky. A leakdown test will find it. Buy or build a leakdown tester. Awk sells them, or you can build one yourself. Its the best tool you can have for keeping your blaster running great, and will prevent alot of problems when used as needed.
Just change them both, keep reading up on here, and you blaster will last you along time.
ONLY use a Blaster/Banshee flywheel puller, no 2-3 jaw puller.
Best tool can buy is a Clymers repair manual.
Best tool can buy is a Clymers repair manual.
Do them both now. I figured mine would just be the stator side, but when i pulled them both out, they were dry and cracking.
Its a pain in th azz to pull them out. Just let us know when you get to that point, as some of us have experience in it I:I
Got it all ordered. Where can i get the items i need to connect the exhaust? The rubber boot and what not?
one of our members has exhaust couplings on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-YAMAHA-...ors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d9fcc1ce
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