What is the proper procedure breaking in a fresh motor? I'm running super m 2 cycle oil and type F ATF per ken occonors guidelines.
Engine break in procedure
- Thread starter turbowrenchhead
- Start date
assemble then leakdown test it, repair leaks if found
32:1 with 92/93 octane
start bike, adjust air/fuel screw and idle if needed
lightly rev up and down the rpm range, not past half throttle till completely warmed up, and you can't hardly hold your hand on the cylinder
allow to cool completely..1/2 - 1 hour
repeat at least 3 times, i've done up to 5 heat cycles
retorque head and base bolts
repeat leakdown test
i usually take it easy for a tank or so of fuel, as in... no extened long full throttle runs.
some like to rip on it right away believing you only have so long for the cross hatching to seal the rings ???
i say.... it takes the same amount of strokes to wear the cross hatches out of the cylinder walls and seat the rings, that can be 20 hours with the "take it easy" method
or 20 minutes with the "rip on it" method
same results ????
yamaha recommends with all new bikes, the "take it easy" method, which i did on my brand new 96, lasted 8+ years, till i sold it with the stock piston/rings and oil injection still on it and running great ???
and w.o.t. plug chop before any w.o.t. runs
so.....
leakdown
heat cycles
re-torque
leakdown
plug chop
ride
32:1 with 92/93 octane
start bike, adjust air/fuel screw and idle if needed
lightly rev up and down the rpm range, not past half throttle till completely warmed up, and you can't hardly hold your hand on the cylinder
allow to cool completely..1/2 - 1 hour
repeat at least 3 times, i've done up to 5 heat cycles
retorque head and base bolts
repeat leakdown test
i usually take it easy for a tank or so of fuel, as in... no extened long full throttle runs.
some like to rip on it right away believing you only have so long for the cross hatching to seal the rings ???
i say.... it takes the same amount of strokes to wear the cross hatches out of the cylinder walls and seat the rings, that can be 20 hours with the "take it easy" method
or 20 minutes with the "rip on it" method
same results ????
yamaha recommends with all new bikes, the "take it easy" method, which i did on my brand new 96, lasted 8+ years, till i sold it with the stock piston/rings and oil injection still on it and running great ???
and w.o.t. plug chop before any w.o.t. runs
so.....
leakdown
heat cycles
re-torque
leakdown
plug chop
ride
Last edited:
Perfect, but i'll add one thing, a six pack or two help those heat cycles not seem like a looong time!
Or if your old like us metamucil!
I'd make one or i sell them. Very important to do not only so you don't blow the top end but you'll be fighting the jetting and never get it right!
I tested it with a compression tester. It wouldn't go more then 90 psi.
How does one make a leak down tester?
How does one make a leak down tester?
Here is a how to http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
Most expensive part is the gauge! I had to buy bulk to be able to make a few dollars.
do not, i'll repeat ....DO NOT run that motor without leak testing it
before and after the heat cycles, and i do mine a few times a year, pain in the ass to take pipe and carb off, but way less painful than new bore/piston
i also compression test multiple times a year to catch sh*t before it happens
like right now, my compression is down, i have new rings and gaskets sitting here to be installed, it will not be ridden again until re-ringed, or sent to ken for more work
over the winter,< which seems to be fast approaching here
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
edit......
gauges at harbor freight for $4 each, kinda junk and prolly inaccurate, but your only looking for drop
should hold no more than 7 pounds for 5-10 minutes
and be sure to spray the tester connections themselves to be sure they're not leaking
before and after the heat cycles, and i do mine a few times a year, pain in the ass to take pipe and carb off, but way less painful than new bore/piston
i also compression test multiple times a year to catch sh*t before it happens
like right now, my compression is down, i have new rings and gaskets sitting here to be installed, it will not be ridden again until re-ringed, or sent to ken for more work
over the winter,< which seems to be fast approaching here
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
edit......
gauges at harbor freight for $4 each, kinda junk and prolly inaccurate, but your only looking for drop
should hold no more than 7 pounds for 5-10 minutes
and be sure to spray the tester connections themselves to be sure they're not leaking
Well I have already started it a few times and I took it for 100 yard run. It pulled the front end up in 3rd real easy. It has great power so I would tend to think that it doesn't have a leak issue. I'm going to be picking up some lower jets today and trying those. If I still can't get it to idle then I will build a leak down tester.
In my opinion, not smart! But it is also not my motor or money! You don't know you have a leak until you test it! Yes it is a PITA but I'd rather do that than spend few hundred on a rebuild because of a fried piston.
We are really trying to help you, but if you don't want to listen to experience...
good luck!I did mine this way it worked out good for me.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
especially................"so I would tend to think that it doesn't have a leak issue"
yep, i "thought" if i pulled out, she wouldnt get pregnant,
i now have a 21 yr. old son
you will more than likely be needing this info real soon.................
kenoconnorracing.com
I had already started it before the posts. I now have a 45 pilot and a 155 main and there is no change. I'm off to the hardware store to build a leak down tester.
I also ordered another head gasket. The first one was crushed but the piston would catch on the gasket right before TDC. So I had to remove the head and center the gasket. Ken said it should be fine because it wasn't fired yet. I'm thinking it probably was not fine.
I also ordered another head gasket. The first one was crushed but the piston would catch on the gasket right before TDC. So I had to remove the head and center the gasket. Ken said it should be fine because it wasn't fired yet. I'm thinking it probably was not fine.
Right now I have a 45 pilot and a 155 main. I just built a leak down tester and found a small leak at the reed gasket. I pulled it off and siliconed both sides of the gasket. I'm going to let it sit a little while to set and I will retest.
There are no bubbles anywhere else.
There are no bubbles anywhere else.
