electrical problems- no spark

[mrw105]

hey guys i bought a blaster off my friend a few days ago for dirt cheap. he told me the carb needs cleaned out and the back brakes dont work. i get it home and clean and adjust the carb and no fire. upon further tear down i found i am getting no spark whatsoever. it had some pretty half assed wiring so i went ahead and redid the connections and splices with new and then double checked them, and got rid of the oil light, brake light, and oil level wires (as not needed) , rewired a good bit and my light will dimly glow when kicking but still wont fire. i swapped my magneto, cdi, and ignition coil into my other friends blaster and his will start right up, so seems as if they are still good. Im so frustrated on this thing i need some guidance lol. i used a wiring diagram and a blaster that runs as a guidline to redoing some of the wires. what do you think could be the problem? the only thing i could think of is the TORS, but then again, im out of ideas, lol. what do yous think i should do next?

oh and i noticed all the negative (black wires) are spliced together, the black/white wires are all spliced together in the front and the key switch is bypassed and wired into one of the negative wires that is mounded together. i dont know if that tidbit helps or not. :-/

 

[Awk08]

the key switch being removed should not have the 2 wires that went to it connected together, that grounds it out and will not start, also check that no solid blacks are connected to any black/white stripe

 

[mrw105]

the black/white stripe wire that supplied power to the key is spliced into the other black/white wires and just that wire is also spliced to a ground wire. it confused me as well but i just kinda left it there for now.

 

[mrw105]

so if i ungrounded the black/white stripe wire and spice it back into itself, or just cut it out, it should supply power again?

 

[royalt67]

Yeah, like Awk said, the blk/wht is the kill line. If it is touching any blk wire or grounded (which is what blk is) it will not let the bike fire. All the blk/wht together is fine and so is all the blk together. They must not touch.

This is really all the handle bar kill switch or keyswitch does, is touch the blk/wht to ground to kill the ignition.

 

[mrw105]

thanks for the help guys. she fires up and runs like a raped ape now

 

[Grezybong]

I have a 97 that I bought brand new in 97, I Got older with kids and had no time for it so I let my brother keep it for about 6 years, It was always inside his garage a Plus. Well I have decided to start back riding and got it back from him about 5 months ago She ran great always fires on first kick choke 1/2 pulled.Well about a week ago I was cruisen my 6 year old boy around and it just sputtered ,would hardly rev up and start to cough then it died,it seemed like it had lost fuel but to my surprise I had no Spark, I got on here did some readn before I signed up I Dl the Manual Checked everything from 7-7 to 7-14 about an hour of work. The only things I seen that was out were the spark plug cap was 22k,The Primary Coil was OL,Throttle switch has been connected together "bypassed" By my brother and the Carb Swith was OL. I got to readn this post and I knew I had seen A BLK to BLK/W While I was checking these. I disconnected these and POOF it runs again's??But why do I have 2 wires that go to nothing and one is male and the other is female, and how did it run when these were connected before? STRANGE....

 

[Grezybong]

Will the throttle switch being butt connected together hurt anything? What about the carb switch not working and what does it mean by primary and secondary coil when it is only 1 unit?

 

[royalt67]

The carb switch and throttle switch are both normally open. This means that for proper operation of the TORS, both should be doing the same thing at the same time, just like normally the carb and throttle move at the same time. The throttle-override-system uses these switches to sense for a stuck throttle, where one switch would be open and the other closed, and kills the ignition.

The throttle switch wires shouldn't be connected together. I don't understand why it worked at all unless the TORS control box under the hood was also disconnected or maybe your cable was/is too tight. My best recommendation is unplug both switches without them being bypassed or connected, tape them up and forget about them. Stupid safety device.

The cap being 22k ohms is a prob you might want to address, it is reducing the strength of your spark, but it's not the end of the world. The only reason it has a resistance at all is to cut RFI noise. Later Blasters have a spec of 10k and a resistor spark plug.

Primary and secondary refers to different sets of windings within your coil. Primary is what is fed by the CDI and the collapsing of the magnetic field of that coil induces a much higher voltage in the secondary coil which fires the plug. The fact that it now runs points to a mistake somehow in your measurement. If it was OL it just wouldn't fire.

As for your two unconnected wires, you would need to give more info for us to know which ones they are, colors, location...

BTW, technically you are are "thread-jacking" here but since mrw105 was done it is not really a big deal. Noobs get one free pass, lol....Next time just feel free to start your own thread.