Easy Mods??

[throttlesteer]

I know this question has probably been asked before but, since I can't find it anywhere else, I'll ask again.

Are there any modifications to the Blaster that I can do without needing a rejet that will improve engine performance? I'm trying to avoid a rejet just yet for a couple reasons. For one, I want to buy all the performance parts at once and only have to rejet once. And another, I don't have a whole lot of time to work on the bike so doing all the major modifcations in one day or weekend would suit me best.

So if you've got any suggestions let me know. I just ordered a new stock air filter on Thursday (the old one was poop brown and wasn't worth washing) and I'll have a little bit of time after work to spend some time on it this week. Thanks!!!

 

[SKULL-DOG]

reeds, k&n, Sprockets

 

[jlsparky7]

reeds, k&n, Sprockets

Thats pretty much all you can do. Anytime a engine produces more power it requires more fuel to mix with the higher airflow.

 

[throttlesteer]

Thats pretty much all you can do. Anytime a engine produces more power it requires more fuel to mix with the higher airflow.

What, are you trying to teach me the physics of any regular combustion engine??? J/K

I figured as much, just wasn't sure if there was anything I was overlooking.

I could be wrong but I thought a rejet was necessary for the reeds. I was thinking of going with the Boyesen stage 2 reeds. The stage 2's are middle of the road between stock and their race reeds.

As for the sprocket, I am planning on buying a set of Kenda Klaws for the rear tires that are a size smaller than stock. This will effectively work as a larger sprocket would and give me a bit more gear for takeoff but less topend speed. It'll be better for the tight trails I intend on riding. If I don't end up liking the loss of topend then I can always go back to stock or get a bigger set later.

 

[jlsparky7]

What, are you trying to teach me the physics of any regular combustion engine??? J/K

I figured as much, just wasn't sure if there was anything I was overlooking.

I could be wrong but I thought a rejet was necessary for the reeds. I was thinking of going with the Boyesen stage 2 reeds. The stage 2's are middle of the road between stock and their race reeds.

As for the sprocket, I am planning on buying a set of Kenda Klaws for the rear tires that are a size smaller than stock. This will effectively work as a larger sprocket would and give me a bit more gear for takeoff but less topend speed. It'll be better for the tight trails I intend on riding. If I don't end up liking the loss of topend then I can always go back to stock or get a bigger set later.

You have to factor in ground clearance too. A tire that is 2 inches smaller will give you 1 inch less ground clearance. It might not seem like a lot but it is a pretty big change. So unless the trails you ride dont have many obsticles then I would suggest staying with a 20 inch tire.

 

[throttlesteer]

You are absolutely correct BUT, I'm staying with the 20inch tire. Stockers are 21 inch I do believe and the Klaws I'm thinking of going with are 20inch. It's only a 1 inch difference (.5inch ride height diff) but it should yield marginal results.

 

[jlsparky7]

Then you should be good.

 

[dirtyblaster]

just don't exspect it to be cheap! lol i kno they make it sell for 1,000 percent more of what its worth but ohh well at least it'll work

 

[jamie]

u could advance the timing 3mm (4 deg) to give u a little more ping........easy to do just have to get a flywheel puller,scribe where it is,slot the holes,them move it 3mm

 

[YamaRider]

You are absolutely correct BUT, I'm staying with the 20inch tire. Stockers are 21 inch I do believe and the Klaws I'm thinking of going with are 20inch. It's only a 1 inch difference (.5inch ride height diff) but it should yield marginal results.

20" klaws have a 21" rollout... it'll probably be very close to your stock tires.

 

[hawkeye]

dont wanna step on anyones toes but it would be best to actually rejet when u go from ur stock fliter to the K&N....but u should only have to bump it up a size or 2....because u are going to be getting a whole lot more airflow through there....so i would say rejet!!!!!

 

[maxitout77]

I'm not sure why you are avoiding a rejet, its a simple process, and can make the best out of any mods!

1. New filter
2. remove airbox lid
3. new reeds
4. rejet

^ you'll be happy wih the outcome.

 

[throttlesteer]

I'm not sure why you are avoiding a rejet, its a simple process, and can make the best out of any mods!

1. New filter
2. remove airbox lid
3. new reeds
4. rejet

^ you'll be happy wih the outcome.

Only reason I'm avoiding it is for time's sake. I work 7 days a week plus school at nite so there's not a whole lot of time to work on it. Usually it's only an afternoon if that. My dad is a long time small engines and motorcycle mechanic and if I'm working on it I usually take it to him so we can do it together. The problem is finding time to haul the quad over to his place and do the work.

We're already talking about what we're going to do to it. Mainly it'll be reeds, pipe, and rejet. So for the most part, I'm waiting on money for a pipe and we'll do the rejet all in the same day we install the other parts.

In this post I was mainly looking for small things I can do myself without having to haul it over to him. Thanks guys!!

 

[110octane]

As for buying a buch of performance parts and puting them on at the same time and rejetting once, thats super hard to do because when your rejetting your putting in new jets, putting everything together, running it to see how it works, taking everything off making adjustments and repeating until you get the perfect combination. People who know their stuff can end up doing it multiple times, but can often figure it out only taking the carb off once maybe twice.

 

[01blaster_freak]

Well even after you put all your mods on you'll be rejetting a few times because the jetting won't be right, an you don't have to rejet after reeds, filter, ect..... all you got to do is raise the needle

 

[blast196]

I have some ITP holeshots on a douglas rim, they blow the doors off of stockers

 

[01blaster_freak]

Anything blows the doors off the stocker, even my almost slicks

 

[hawkeye]

Well even after you put all your mods on you'll be rejetting a few times because the jetting won't be right, an you don't have to rejet after reeds, filter, ect..... all you got to do is raise the needle

honestly u do need to rejet when u get a new filter unless ur swap it with another stock filter...but otherwise u do need to rejet after u change ur filter..adn it would be easier to rejet it then to yank the whole carb and screw with the needle

 

[Cochise]

you dont have to rejet for a single air filter jump from foam to K&n, and off topic, why the heck would you want a K&n to begin with? their junk, foam flows FASTER and filters BETTER! ever wonder why they make an outerware for every K&n filter in existence? Thought so! but back to subject just to change a filter, no jetting required ive been down this road before , if you ditch your airbox lid, yes rejet, if not, dont worry about it. But keep in mind if you live where their is a changing klimate as I do you'll have to re-jet through out the year to get the best performance out of your quad, no matter what is done to it.