Difficulty of Total Engine Tear Down

cole454

cole454

Member
Dec 27, 2010
1,268
17
74
Wolcott, Indiana
So I did a leakdown test on my blaster and it has a large leak where the engine casings come together. Figured that means a complete tear down.

Was wondering how difficult would it be to do. I've never really done any internal engine work before, but I'm willing to learn and take it slow.

Is there any pointers or diy's out there? Do I need any special tools? I have the normal sockets and such. And I have the service manual. Just trying to figure out if I can do it myself or if I need to take it to someone else.

Thanks
 
taking the head off and the cylinder off is super easy. its just a few bolts no big deal. be careful pulling the piston out because you want to save it if you dont need a rebuild. the cases are the hardest part ive never actually done it. it doesnt look super hard its just remembering where everything goes
 
with the right couple of tools that are required, splitting the cases just to reseal the seem is actually quite easy, its trying to split them with a hammer, screwdriver and cresent wrench where it gets frusterating.

be sure to have a flywheel puller, rubber mallot, screw impact driver (for stator phillips head screws) and a clutch basket holder if you dont have an air impact gun. plus all regular hand tools,

there was a full rebuild where someone posted a pretty much step by step around here somewhere, was a couple years ago i believe, someone might remember who it was
 
Yup them guys said it. The tusk tool is great for the flywheel and clutch. I used a rubber mallet to pop the case's apart. And use Yamabond 4 to seal her back up. Torque is a big factor when it comes to these rattle box's (and any engine as far as that go's) so invest in one if you havent already. The cylinder base nuts require a torque adapter, so be sure to pick one up. Have fun with it and the best of luck.
 
Its not bad at all. I split them with just a rubber mallet. And you are just re sealing them so no need for a crank installer tool so thats even better. The one side should just pop off and then all you gotta do is clean it up and re seal!
 
Ok. so it looks like I need a couple of tools.

Case Splitter - $60 (kinda expensive, can I get one elsewhere cheaper?)
Tusk Crankcase Splitter/Separator | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

Clutch Tool - $16
Tusk Clutch Holding Tool | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

Impact Driver - $16 (Is this what you were talking about Mborso1029?)
K & L Impact Driver | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

Torque Adapter - $14 (I think this is the torque adapter Deerslayer89 was talking about?)
Motion Pro Torque Wrench Adaptor | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
 
Brandoz28 has suggested using a harmonic balancer puller to split the cases. You can get them at an auto parts store for around 15-20. Mine had 4" M8x1.25 bolts with it. If you split from the right side and dont need to remove the crank from the left side they will work great. NO BEATING ON THE CASES to get them apart. They split in just a few seconds with this tool. If you have to remove the crank from the left side you will need longer bolts though (M8x1.25 6" long) and a crankshaft installer tool. Really easy to do just make sure you take your time, dont force anything, and take notes and photos if you havent done it before. will make putting it all back together easier.
 
stabor1122 said:
Brandoz28 has suggested using a harmonic balancer puller to split the cases. You can get them at an auto parts store for around 15-20. Mine had 4" M8x1.25 bolts with it. If you split from the right side and dont need to remove the crank from the left side they will work great. NO BEATING ON THE CASES to get them apart. They split in just a few seconds with this tool. If you have to remove the crank from the left side you will need longer bolts though (M8x1.25 6" long) and a crankshaft installer tool. Really easy to do just make sure you take your time, dont force anything, and take notes and photos if you havent done it before. will make putting it all back together easier.
Click to expand...

^^ This worked great for me when I had to push the crank out.
 
on a scale of 0-10, the blaster complete tear down is rated around a 4.
a banshee is around a 2-3
a cannondale is rated around a 9
 
cole454 said:
Ok. so it looks like I need a couple of tools.

Case Splitter - $60 (kinda expensive, can I get one elsewhere cheaper?)
Tusk Crankcase Splitter/Separator | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

Clutch Tool - $16
Tusk Clutch Holding Tool | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

Impact Driver - $16 (Is this what you were talking about Mborso1029?)
K & L Impact Driver | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

Torque Adapter - $14 (I think this is the torque adapter Deerslayer89 was talking about?)
Motion Pro Torque Wrench Adaptor | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Click to expand...

all these tools are a must i have all of them and they work great the case splitter is great i say get it. it comes with 8 and 10mm threads so you can do it on other engines. the clutch hub holder is good to you can flip it around and use it to hold the flywheel so you can break it loose. the flywheel puller is a must unless you want broken cases from a prybar. i say pick you up a manuel or download it off here and use that to help you. Good Luck ask if you need any help
 
everything but the flywheel puller can be had at harbor freight for no more than half the cost of ordering, my local dealer had the flywheel puller in stock for like 15 bucks, which was the cheapeast i could find it online when adding shipping cost to it.
 
liljatownboy said:
all these tools are a must i have all of them and they work great the case splitter is great i say get it. it comes with 8 and 10mm threads so you can do it on other engines. the clutch hub holder is good to you can flip it around and use it to hold the flywheel so you can break it loose. the flywheel puller is a must unless you want broken cases from a prybar. i say pick you up a manuel or download it off here and use that to help you. Good Luck ask if you need any help
Click to expand...




most everything is a must, but to save a good amount of cash, he can use a harmonic balancer puller to split the cases, used it many times, but the others are definitely needed. the clutch holder is also really good for putting sprockets on too.


here's a thread where i tear a bottom end apart and show it pretty much step by step
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-...ock-stroke-wildcard-ported-trail-motor-35058/
 
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