my blaster is cutting out when you go to get on the throttle and it sounds like it has a rev limiter it stipts and sputers in mid and high rpm. the carb is clean and its jetted fine. it just started doing it after i went on a long ride and is still doing it. i called the shop and they said either my stator or coil was breaking down but im not sure if that could be the problem
cutting out no power
- Thread starter fosterblaster
- Start date
i'd look closely at the coil wire and plug boot, assuming you've tried a new plug ??? and the ground connection at the coil and all connections coming out of the stator above the shifter
and delete the tors.........
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/
and heres an elctrical trouble shooting post i copied (brandoz ???)................
Electrical problems suck. Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 or less at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
and delete the tors.........
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/
and heres an elctrical trouble shooting post i copied (brandoz ???)................
Electrical problems suck. Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 or less at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
Do you have the TORS system removed?
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/
yea i have the tors system removed and i have a new plug as well and my e brake isent hooked up i have removed all of the senors.
I would for sure double check your plug boot. Is it connecting to the plug correctly? meaning some plug boots are designed for threads on the plug and some aren't or require to have the top cap on. It's happened to me before but normally it's the whole time not just mid or top that it sputters. I would be more leaning toward maybe a reed problem or possibly you have a wire grounding out somewhere.
it has a new wireing harness with the tors wired out and i just replaced the high tension lead on the coil. i took the reeds out the other day and checked them over they seemed to be okay and i tryed an different air boot and it still runs like sh*t
have you done a compression test yet. will it rev up in neutral at all? does it only bog under load?
The motor is fine its got good compression and was rebuilt in dec. Yea it revs fine in neutral until you get into high rpm like when you hold it almost wide open it starts cutting out.
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and you haven't checked out the stator? what is your compression. please don't tell me it blew your finger off the hole.
Im thinking its the stator because I called the shop and they said that the stator my stator is breaking. Down the motor is strong so ik that's not the problem
check them reeds too, and for air leaks
slickerthanyou sales leakdown testers < a must have for any 2 stroke owner
maybe by chance your flywheel key has sheared or is about to making the timing off. Your new here so not sure where you are located but I can send you a stator to test and if that solves the problem then I'll sell it cheap but if not I ask you to ship back. could ship in small box so shipping might not be so bad. ship monday possibly if your up for the offer?
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