crank vent air leak

enalkarion

New Member
Dec 5, 2012
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Levittown, PA
I picked up a blaster off a second for 200 because he couldn't get it running right, and he bought another blaster. I made a leak tester, pumped it up and air was coming out of the crank case vent pretty quick. I thought maybe a crank seal so i started on the clutch side. With the cover off I sprayed the seal. I didn't see any bubbles. Pulled the clutch basket and gears off to get to the seal. Seems like its leaking from between the collar to crank area. With the cover off if there were no leaks present should the motor be air tight?
 
Exactly as Awk said....collars can and do leak as they wear, especially if somebody ran old nasty oil in the transmission for awhile. Change the seal and collar and the leak should be stopped.
 
Thanks guys, per Awk's advice I ordered a moose seal kit and a new collar. My collar has 2 deep grooves in it. Hopefully thats the last of the issues with this bike and I can start riding! When I got it I found a 210 main jet laying in the bottom of the bowl on a vm28 carb. The kid couldn't figure out why it ran like crap. I think the jet being off is the only reason he didn't fry the top end from the air leak.
 
Thanks guys, per Awk's advice I ordered a moose seal kit and a new collar. My collar has 2 deep grooves in it. Hopefully thats the last of the issues with this bike and I can start riding! When I got it I found a 210 main jet laying in the bottom of the bowl on a vm28 carb. The kid couldn't figure out why it ran like crap. I think the jet being off is the only reason he didn't fry the top end from the air leak.

2 deep grooves would be the problem! Once you get the airleak fixed, be sure to get rid of that 210 main jet in favor of something bigger (depending on your pipe.) I:I
 
I ordered 240-270 jets, and i put a 260 in it for now. That should be good for a stock pipe, no air box lid, and the 30-45 degree temps around here. I'll plug chop it to be sure.