i just but the cases back together from a rebuild and everything seems to turn smooth and good except the counter balancer is a bit hard to turn.
counter balancer
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I would look into that and also make sure it's indexed. The marks have to line up or you will feel like your ridding a four wheeled vibrator.
The balancer shaft is hard to turn?
Leakdown that engine before you drop it in the frame! Most of the time balancer shaft being hard to turn is indicative of the case being bulged out in that area. That *could* be a sign of a broken case that the balancer shaft is hitting while trying to turn. The clearance between the balancer shaft and case is VERY small there and it wouldn't take much for the shaft to hit the case.
Leakdown that engine before you drop it in the frame! Most of the time balancer shaft being hard to turn is indicative of the case being bulged out in that area. That *could* be a sign of a broken case that the balancer shaft is hitting while trying to turn. The clearance between the balancer shaft and case is VERY small there and it wouldn't take much for the shaft to hit the case.
A broken case causing the balancer shaft to be hard to turn would make it hard to turn for only half the turn. The other half would be nice and smooth until the balancer shaft hits the case again.
i have no idea the crank installer threads arent the same as the crank and doesnt thread on. it just stripped a little of the crank threads. its pissing me off!!!!!
didn't the crank puller come with different "dies" for different threads ???
i know mine did
unless someone had already bunged up them threads and re-tapped to a different thread (usually american)
i have a good shape +4 crank that someone did that too
i know mine did
unless someone had already bunged up them threads and re-tapped to a different thread (usually american)
i have a good shape +4 crank that someone did that too
It came with two one doesnt fit at all and the other turns like a good one and half -two turns. .. Not enought to keep it on from the force of the puller. Its a brand new crank.. You can see a tiny shaving come off from when it slipped trying to put it on.
I wish it would.... It doesnt want to go and i dont want to f*** up the threads .... Idk what to do ... Im trying to do it on the right side case. The crank is installed in the left and thats where i put the tranny counter balancer etc. then i put the right side on and try to use the tool. Do i have it all backwards?
yep, the puller pulls on the flywheel side, not sure it fits the clutch side ???
at least thats how mine went, the 6 times i opened it up checking "not shifting issues"
maybe someone with more experience will chime in, i only did it them 6 times in one day, then sold the puller and just let oconnor do my sh*t now
at least thats how mine went, the 6 times i opened it up checking "not shifting issues"
maybe someone with more experience will chime in, i only did it them 6 times in one day, then sold the puller and just let oconnor do my sh*t now
Yea i prolly should have gave him my bottom end too. Would have been done right and cheaper. I had to spend the 150$ for all the specialized tools. Well ill take the crank
Out and try from the other side and report back to
Orrow thanks awk you seem to help me with everything lol!!!!
Out and try from the other side and report back to
Orrow thanks awk you seem to help me with everything lol!!!!
Generally the crank "thrust side" is the stator side. The right side case *usually* slides right down over the crank.
The Tusk crank puller comes with two different inside threaded adapters. The thinner threaded one should fit. It happens to be a M12 x 1.25. If it doesn't check the threads and make SURE there aren't any boogered up. If they are, a needle file is needed to clean up that one thread/threads. If you don't you'll booger the adapter and the rest of the threads too!
The Tusk crank puller comes with two different inside threaded adapters. The thinner threaded one should fit. It happens to be a M12 x 1.25. If it doesn't check the threads and make SURE there aren't any boogered up. If they are, a needle file is needed to clean up that one thread/threads. If you don't you'll booger the adapter and the rest of the threads too!
check out kens, or jlsparky's youtube vids, one of them has to show a bottom end rebuild.................
kenoconnorracing's Channel - YouTube
kenoconnorracing's Channel - YouTube
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^^^^^^ that video starts out wrong first thing.... He has the transmission laying in the right side case and the crank in the left side case.... that's a recipe for a a shift fork guide pin falling out of the place while assembling and requiring splitting the cases again.
You could go to the General Support section of this forum and download the service manual and go through it step by step.
It specifies putting all of the stuff in the left side case (where the crank should already be pulled into) and then putting the sealant on the right side case and dropping it down onto the left side. The last step (after the cases are already pushed together) is to flip it on its bottom and install all of the case screws.
You could go to the General Support section of this forum and download the service manual and go through it step by step.
It specifies putting all of the stuff in the left side case (where the crank should already be pulled into) and then putting the sealant on the right side case and dropping it down onto the left side. The last step (after the cases are already pushed together) is to flip it on its bottom and install all of the case screws.
Sad to say but pull it open and check everything to make sure everything is right.
There is something amiss here it should go together easily if all is right!
There is something amiss here it should go together easily if all is right!
True it should go togher but I have had to use the nut for the right side in the crank puller to get it in all the way. Whatever you do don't beat on it with a hammer... lol. If that nut doesn't fit in it may be the kicker nut I used they are the same thread, also go slow and don't let anything else bind as your pulling.
ok ill try that.. thanks! where can you get replacement nuts for the internal nut? i would like to replace them all? hardeware store?
