I am working on my sons 94 blaster and before replacing the lighting coil the bike started on the first kick. Now it wont start at all. I printed out the wiring diagram posted by "slickerthanyou" (thanks for that). and I put back together correctly. The only thing I did was to lightly sand the fly wheel magnets as they had some rusty spots on them. Could that cause the engine not to fire? Any help would be appreciated.. I have never used one of these sites, so please bare with me if I totally screwed this up.
Confused with electrical????
- Thread starter brokerider
- Start date
Make you have a new plug. Recheck all wires and make sure your grounds all are tight and have a clean connection to metal.
You did good, found a post and tried something.
Do you have spark at all? check that first. Does it need a new spark plug? (super dirty or still useable?)
When you took off the coil, and put it back together, did you measure the gap?
Im guessing thats what you may have done wrong when putting it together. Too big of a gap will cause no spark.
If thats the case, go to your local hardware store, and find a set of "feeler gauges".
I'm not sure what the thickness needs to be, but im sure someone knows.
Good luck I:I
Do you have spark at all? check that first. Does it need a new spark plug? (super dirty or still useable?)
When you took off the coil, and put it back together, did you measure the gap?
Im guessing thats what you may have done wrong when putting it together. Too big of a gap will cause no spark.
If thats the case, go to your local hardware store, and find a set of "feeler gauges".
I'm not sure what the thickness needs to be, but im sure someone knows.
Good luck I:I
Thanks for the input. I will check for spark and my grounds again to make sure they are good. If still nothing I may take the new light stator that I put in back out and see what happens then. I know it has to be something simple as I drove it into the garage right before I put the new stator in for the lights. It's always the simple things that seem hard to figure out.
Was this a new ebay stator you used? Keep us posted if you have spark or not. Not just one spark,multiple sparks.
Have you disturbed something in the ignition coil.
The lighting coil does nothing for the spark, they are 2 different circuits.
Look on the floor under where you worked on the bike, I have known the Woodruff key to drop out when fitting the flywheel.
The lighting coil does nothing for the spark, they are 2 different circuits.
Look on the floor under where you worked on the bike, I have known the Woodruff key to drop out when fitting the flywheel.
I bought the Stator from my local Yamaha shop (Pro-Caliber). I checked the wiring again and then pulled the spark plug out and checked for spark. It was good but the plug was soaked and pretty black. I kicked it over a few times to get any extra fuel out before putting in a new plug. It fired right up, however the little alignment pin for the flywheel sheared off shortly after before I could check the headlight wire for power. When it rains it pores right. LOL Thanks for all the help everyone. By that I mean those who responded and those who posted other questions. I was able to get my best spark plug and gap as well from this site..
You may need to lap the flywheel......
Lapping the flywheel consists of putting some fine valve grinding paste on the taper of the crankshaft, placing the flywheel on, ( without the key), and revolving the flywheel back and forth.
When the flywheel turns more freely as the paste gets broken up, take off the flywheel, wipe out the used paste and inspect.
The grooves should now be flattened out.
If there are still grooves, repeat the operation until good mating surfaces are made.
Be sure to wash off all, and I mean all of the grinding paste.
I like to finalise by using a Duco cutting compound No 3 for the final lap.
Tension the nut to 53 ft lbs, do not use Loctite, it is not the nut that holds it on, it is the pressure applied to the tapers.
Make sure that you have the washer under the nut.
Lapping the flywheel consists of putting some fine valve grinding paste on the taper of the crankshaft, placing the flywheel on, ( without the key), and revolving the flywheel back and forth.
When the flywheel turns more freely as the paste gets broken up, take off the flywheel, wipe out the used paste and inspect.
The grooves should now be flattened out.
If there are still grooves, repeat the operation until good mating surfaces are made.
Be sure to wash off all, and I mean all of the grinding paste.
I like to finalise by using a Duco cutting compound No 3 for the final lap.
Tension the nut to 53 ft lbs, do not use Loctite, it is not the nut that holds it on, it is the pressure applied to the tapers.
Make sure that you have the washer under the nut.
