Clutch push rod problem
- Thread starter Travis
- Start date
Hello fellow Blaster users. I have a question I would like to know the answer to. So over the past week I have figured out that the clutch has been the main problem for my blaster. When I held in the clutch and kicked it into first it would lurch forward and stop. Now to me that is a clear sign that the clutch is not disengaging completely. When taking apart the clutch I found that the push rods had melted to the ball and that made it so I had poor clutch response. So, just the other day I received the parts for the clutch that I found out were trash. After installing these rods and the bearing with grease and tightening down the clutch springs and doing he internal adjustment I now have the proper slack and tension in the clutch lever and the plates move when I pull it in, however when I rolled the wheeler with the clutch held in it would stay in gear.
Any help would be appreciated,
Thanks
Any help would be appreciated,
Thanks
650 Mililiters Cm squared is what it said on the clutch cover case. Also I did let it warm up for almost 10 minutes and it actually sounds really deep. I worked the clutch while it was warming and when I thought it was ready I pulled it in and voila! It worked! I guess it wasn't oiled enough like you guys said.
But before I got to excited I realized that it sounded way to deep for a blaster does the deep sound have to do anything with the idle jet being clogged? There was also a clicking sound in the head,any ideas?
But before I got to excited I realized that it sounded way to deep for a blaster does the deep sound have to do anything with the idle jet being clogged? There was also a clicking sound in the head,any ideas?
Mine did the same thing after my rebuild. Once I ran it and got things moving around again, it was fine. Sometimes if you don't put the plates exactly the same way the came out, it will do that until they "settle". Don't know if that makes sense.
Is there an air cleaner element in the air box?
A deeper exhaust sound on acceleration could signify a lean mixture.
A deeper exhaust sound on acceleration could signify a lean mixture.
AFR is controlled by the amount of air passing over the jets, fuel is drawn from the float bowl through the jets.
Get the jets wrong and mix fuel with the incorrect amount of air and you have throttle response problems.
Not only must the jets be matched to the amount of air, but the float level and idle settings must be also correct.
Contrary to public belief, over oiling of the filter does not seem to change the AFR.
Typical Lean Conditions:
- Poor acceleration; the engine feels flat.
- The engine won't respond when the throttle is snapped open, but it picks up speed as the throttle is closed. (A too-large main jet also mimics this symptom.)
- The engine runs hot, knocks, pings and overheats.
- The engine surges or hunts when cruising at part-throttle.
- Popping or spitting through the carb occurs when the throttle is opened. Or popping and spitting occurs through the pipe on deceleration with a closed throttle.
- The engine runs better in warm weather, worse in cool.
- Performance gets worse when the air filter is removed.
- Performance improves when the choke is engaged.
Typical Rich Conditions
- Engine acceleration is flat and uneven and loses that "crisp" feel.
- The engine "eight-strokes" as it loads up and skips combustion cycles.
- The engine's idle is rough or lumpy, and the engine won't return to idle without "blipping" the throttle.
- The throttle needs to be open continuously to maintain acceleration.
- Black, sooty plugs, a sooty exhaust pipe and black smoke from the tailpipe that stinks of unburned fuel.
- Poor fuel economy.
- The engine works better when cold. Performance falls off as it warms.
- Poor acceleration; the engine feels flat.
- The engine won't respond when the throttle is snapped open, but it picks up speed as the throttle is closed. (A too-large main jet also mimics this symptom.)
- The engine runs hot, knocks, pings and overheats.
- The engine surges or hunts when cruising at part-throttle.
- Popping or spitting through the carb occurs when the throttle is opened. Or popping and spitting occurs through the pipe on deceleration with a closed throttle.
- The engine runs better in warm weather, worse in cool.
- Performance gets worse when the air filter is removed.
- Performance improves when the choke is engaged.
Typical Rich Conditions
- Engine acceleration is flat and uneven and loses that "crisp" feel.
- The engine "eight-strokes" as it loads up and skips combustion cycles.
- The engine's idle is rough or lumpy, and the engine won't return to idle without "blipping" the throttle.
- The throttle needs to be open continuously to maintain acceleration.
- Black, sooty plugs, a sooty exhaust pipe and black smoke from the tailpipe that stinks of unburned fuel.
- Poor fuel economy.
- The engine works better when cold. Performance falls off as it warms.
Will it make the pinging noises in the top end of of the engine because that's where I heard it. I just thought something broke off and was skipping around in it.
has it always done it or just recently? have you compared it to other blaster videos.Noboby on here can tell you forsure,If you suspect foul play you need to take it apart and inspect it.It is not hard,about as hard as typing on here lol 
It has just started doing the pinging and rattling a few days ago once I got the clutch back together I was going to wait to take off the cylinder head incase it really wasn't the problem. And I have compared it and it definetely sounds like somethings wrong with it. Mostly the pinging..
