clutch oil

Jul 5, 2007
531
10
54
england
right i went to a local shop that sells motor bike stuff and he said that i should put in my blaster's crankcase, 4 stroke 10w-40 wet clutch motor bike oil in it is that true or will it fu*k my clutch? :">:">
 
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i started running motor oil in mine last year and it wasn't long after that i had major clutch slippage i put new clutches in and ran some tranny oil from a local shop can't think of the name of it right now but the stuff you are talking about may be some good stuff, but i don't know..
 
Aj's right, that stuff is perfect. I think there are so many different varieties of oils that peeps get confused easy. Just make sure it say specially formulated for wet clutch oil or say it contains no friction modifiers and you'll be fine.
 
check it out guys. there is absolutely no diffrence between automotive oil and motorcycle/atv specific oil. the only difference is the price. motorcycle/atv dealerships can sell it at a higher price because your average consumer doesnt know any better and thinks they need oil formulated just for their bike.

now, heres where you need to pay attention.....

there is a substance added to ALL oil called molybendium. the difference between oils is how much of it is in there. with a wet clutch setup, you want as little of it as you can get. molybendium is a friction modifier. it is what causes your oil to have its slippery properties. additives like slick 50 have extremely high concentrations of it. most synthetic oils do as well.

how to find the oil that you need.....

1. look on the back of the bottle and loook for a seal stamped on there that says "energy conserving" or "power saving". if it has this stamp/logo, put it back on the shelf and never EVER put it in your ATV. these are oils designed strictly for dry clutch setups that are found on all cars and some motorcycles.

2. what does the 10w-40 actually mean? easy, when the oil is cold, it takes on teh properties as a 10 weight oil. so it its very lightweight and has a thin consistancy. then once it heats up, it takes on the properties of a 40 weight oil. it thickens up and gives you better protection against heat failure. this is important if you live in extremely cold climates during the winter. you want the thinner 5w-30 so that it doesnt thicken up in the colder weather.

so, you can go to your local auto parts store and pick up castrol syntec 10-40 and dump it in your bike. it wont hurt anything at all as long as you verify the back of the bottle and ensure that it isnt branded for energy conservation. i have been running regular motor oils in my motorcycles and atvs for almost 20 years with no problems at all.

the good news is that if you do mistakenly put the moly enriched oil into your quad and start slipping your clutch, you can drain it and refill it with regular oil and the problem will go away after a few rides.

hope this helps.
 
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it does help valhalla, but correct me if im wrong, but on belray bottles it sez to be used specifically for 2 stroke engines. in 4 strokes, i wouldnt care what the hell i was running, but a 2 stroke operates differently (obviously) so to me there must be some difference in "2 stroke oil" compared to conventional automotive oils.
 
The only thing that needs to be checked is whether it says approved for wet clutch use or no friction modifiers added ( usually you will find that the bottle will say both becuz they go hand in hand ). In regards to cost Im happy to spend $7 on a bottle of BELRAY becuz it is specifically formulated for 2stroke wet clutches but if you follow the above warnings any oil that meets the above requirements will be suitable.
 
it does help valhalla, but correct me if im wrong, but on belray bottles it sez to be used specifically for 2 stroke engines. in 4 strokes, i wouldnt care what the hell i was running, but a 2 stroke operates differently (obviously) so to me there must be some difference in "2 stroke oil" compared to conventional automotive oils.


your transmission operates just like any other. its a group of gears and shafts spinning together. the clutch is just like any other, only smaller because of displacement. again, you are paying a higher price because of a marketing ploy designed to use a lack of knowledge against the end consumer. there are places you can send your oil to and have it analyzed for cheap. we use it in the sportbike world for determining engine wear after hard days on the track. once we get back the analysis, we can see each and every element that is in our oil. you would be suprised to see the similarities between $15/qt high end motorcycle oil and the $2/qt wal-mart stuff that nobody likes to buy.
 
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