Clutch again!!!! NEED HELP! Last guidance from here sucked!

lassek

New Member
Feb 23, 2009
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Sweden, Denmark is my native
Hi all.

I asked some days ago about this:

http://swebot.net/clutch.jpg

Then people said yeah, sure adjust all the way up....

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/engine-finally-total-rebuild-but-1-problem-plz-help-15370/


I did that, leaved the locktite 24 hours for full harden.. But then today i came in for testing.. guess what it dident work.. The clutch handle on the steering seems normal now though, and the clutch lever on the engine is also moving correct.. The problem is now its not engageing the clutch properly.. when start from first i can release the handle and give some throttle.. no movement.. if i spin the rpm fairly high it moves a little .. = it engages a little..

I am really frustrated because i KNOW it comes down to the little centerbolt and adjustment. . . but how the hell is the correct procedure? It is currently adjusted like the picture up and throgh the hexhole on the cover (the one with the 5 holes for springs and bolts.. and then on top of that that goes on last washer and centerbolt.

I did notice however that when entire clutchcover is off and i pull the clutch handle that all the clutch discs and metal rings comes out and then goes back in when release.. isnt this correct?

Someone please help me as i am dying to ride it, because of total rebuild and tuning..

(I have already looked at the Blaster Service manuel.. it dosent say in details how to correctly do it.)

Thanks
 
Last edited:
its on page 49 and 50 of the manual, if you dont find it i'll try to copy and paste it for you
 
from my experience, it took me 4 or 5 times to get this right, very frustrating, theres a notch that lines up, look on the engine lever for the little point and a mark on the case, line these up, then move to the other side, tighten the rod in till you feel it touch, then i think i read somewhere to back it off 1/2 a turn,then tighten the locknut, i also did this with the wheels off the ground, so i could spin them with the clutch lever pulled in,to see if the wheels spun free, or if there was engine lag as i released it, before i put it all back together
do all this with the cable disconnected so it doesnt effect the internal adjustment, then reconnect it, and adjust your slack at the hand lever

someone chime in and tell us is this correct???
 
from my experience, it took me 4 or 5 times to get this right, very frustrating, theres a notch that lines up, look on the engine lever for the little point and a mark on the case, line these up, then move to the other side, tighten the rod in till you feel it touch, then i think i read somewhere to back it off 1/2 a turn,then tighten the locknut, i also did this with the wheels off the ground, so i could spin them with the clutch lever pulled in,to see if the wheels spun free, or if there was engine lag as i released it, before i put it all back together
do all this with the cable disconnected so it doesnt effect the internal adjustment, then reconnect it, and adjust your slack at the hand lever

someone chime in and tell us is this correct???
He is correct.I just did mine and that summed it up pretty much.
 
is the clutch installed correctly? there is a dot in the center piece of the clutch assembly(i belive its called the clutch boss?) that lines up with a dot on the compression plate or whatever you want to call the part that you put over top of the installed clutch plates then the springs go in it.
 
Ok guys.. this is a lot more help this time, my problem is that i the adjustable bolt are all the way up and are visible from the pressure plate.. it is according to you very wrong as it needs to be actually adjusted in instead of out..

once again thanks.. illl try some more locktite and a diffrent approach today.. thanks..

Ill report later the status..