changed clutch

blaster82

New Member
Jan 27, 2008
401
5
0
hanover PA
I just put a new clutch in my blaster over the weekend and i checked all the friction plates and they were all the same so i guess in my tusk kit there isnt a thicker one to go on the back like in the video thats stickied above. also when i adjusted the clutch internally i could barely get the lock nut on because i had to turn in the adjustment so far but it got on there. is that bad? i noticed that when everything is all said and done and i adjusted it the best i could with the cable that there is no play in my lever at all and when i put it in gear with the clutch pulled in it still wants to move a little. is this normal? thanks
 
If you have to adjust the rod that far in, something is missing or worn out. The actuator can get a groove in it where it contacts the rod from years of use. The rods get little pimple marks where they meet the ball. My bet is that it’s the actuator or you didn’t put the ball back between the shafts.
 
yeah there were marks on the pushrods from the ball but i wasnt sure if that was supposed to be like that and i put a new ball in it. I guess ill just run her as is until she stops working lol
 
anyone else have any input?

Yea...tear it back down and find out what you did or didnt do.As ken said it shouldnt be like that.

As for the nut at the minimum i want the rod to be flush with the top of the nut.Theres not a lot of threads on those small nuts so everyone of them count.When you get it figured out and assembled correctly dont forget loctite on the nut and torque it dont just half ass it and snug it.

And i hope you did soak those clutches overnight or that will be an issue later on.
 
it is the lock nut is flush with the adjuster and i did soak the plates overnight. I think i need new pushrids because like i said they are dimpled pretty bad. thatll be a winter project because as of now everything is working good!
 
it is the lock nut is flush with the adjuster and i did soak the plates overnight. I think i need new pushrids because like i said they are dimpled pretty bad. thatll be a winter project because as of now everything is working good!

flush with the end is fine for now, but will limit future adjustments, next time you're in there, replace all those parts, rods/ball/actuator can all be had for prolly under $30
way cheaper than a nut coming loose and imploding everything in that side of the case.
you did brake clean, and use blue loc-tite on that nut didn't you ??
 
sure did. like i said im gonna take it back apart this winter and relpace what needs replaced. if i take it back apart do i have to get new springs again?
 
if i take it back apart do i have to get new springs again?

not necessarily, did your tusk kit come with stiffer springs ??
if not, you can upgrade to a heavier spring for cheap to prevent slippage