Ok so I got the reed cage to quit leaking and now the case is blowing bubbles, right under where the crank goes. Should I tear it apart before I order seals and check the bearings/crank (probably)? The guy supposedly put a new crank in it too, but he didn't know what he was doing, look at all the problems ive had so far. Anyway, where can I get quality parts the cheapest? I just put around 400 in the top end and leak tester so its starting to tick me off. Also, I don't have a micrometer to check the crank, what should I look for? I ran it myself about 2 hours before I noticed it didn't have good compression so I would say the bearings and crank need replacing. Any good links cheaper quality parts? Do I need anything special to get the cases apart? Thanks. Oh yeah, I guess it would be ok to pull the top off with the head on it so I don't have to take of the head gasket, right? Will I need a new base gasket? The one on it is new but has been torqued down, not run any. I wish I would have bought that leak tester before I took the engine apart the first time, lesson learned!
Case leaking air
- Thread starter Jeff Bennett
- Start date
Well, I just went out and was looking again after I cooled down a bit. It is leaking air from behind the sprocket and out the lid for the oil fill. So, I guess I definitely have blown seals in there along with the case leak. Does anyone on here have a shaft for the kickstart? Mine is all messed up. I have to put it on to start then take it off so I don't lose it.
I always check main bearings by pulling on the flywheel. There shouldnt be any play. To check the rod for play youll need to pull the top end off and piston. Its ok for the rod to have side to side, but any up and down is bad. Sometimes up and down play can be very minimal and hard to feel so check it very carefully. Im confused about you not having compression. An air leak in the crankcase wouldnt cause a lack of compression.
time to pull the clutch cover, stator cover and flywheel to spray soapy water on both seals as you pressurize the leakdown tester.
to be sure it is just the seals
and not broken/cracked cases between the crank and trans areas
or are you still saying it's leaking at the case halves below the crank too ?
It may pay to also see if it leaking between the collar and the crankshaft!
Yes, its leaking between the cases too. So, I don't think he used any kind of bonding agent. He knew it was leaking and put some kind of brown liquid stuff on it to stop the leak. Its wore off and leaking and leaking from the "dipstick" hole when I take the plug out. So, I would say, the case is leaking on the inside too. Isnt that the only way air can get into the tranny (or a broken case in there)? I need all seals and crank bearings, hard to tell if dirt was sucked up in there. I hope the crank isn't damaged.
The tranny can pressurize from a bad crank seal, or the collar on the crankshaft. Could be a crack in there also, but those are the 2 most common problems. Always put alittle yamabond on the inside of that collar to make sure its sealed.
Like awk said, take that clutch cover off and see whats going on it there.
The leak on the cases seam is best fixed bu splitting them, Lapping the cases, then reassembling carefully with yamabond4 or threebond case sealer.
Took clutch cover off and didn't see any cracks but air pours through the crank seal. Should I take everything out before I order seals to see if the crank is bad? Its supposed to be a new crank but who knows. I have to lap the cases anyway. How much you figure it is going to cost me to do seals and bearings, I will do the labor.
Some good Koyo Main bearings and a good seal kit? I'd say about $70 or less. Its been a few months since I bought any!
Check the crank for up and down movement. (you want none) side to side 3mm or less is in Specs!
Your gonna need those rear brakes after you get this thing rebuilt!
Check the crank for up and down movement. (you want none) side to side 3mm or less is in Specs!
Your gonna need those rear brakes after you get this thing rebuilt!
Actually, just get those bearings off Ken, That way you know they are Koyo's and I'm sure he has some in stock.
Change all the seals when your doing it. Seal kits are cheap, and then you have no worries.
Change all the seals when your doing it. Seal kits are cheap, and then you have no worries.
Yeah, once I find out all I need, I will be calling ken. Cant wait to get to use them back brakes dirty!
Before I start the tear down, how do I get the cases loose from the crank. I watched the video of heating the bearing to get the on but do I just heat the case on the outside to get the out?
I pulled on the flywheel and there is no movement at all on the crank side to side or up and down that I could tell. I also pulled on the rod and no movement up and down. The rod does have some side to side But I think that is supposed to be there. Everything feels tight and moves freely. How do I remove the clutch hub? I was thinking using a belt.
using anything but the proper tool is a gamble to break basket fingers
clutch tool
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-FZR6...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2595a3d918&vxp=mtr
clutch/flywheel combo tool (best option that alot of us use)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afb489980&vxp=mtr
clutch tool
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-FZR6...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2595a3d918&vxp=mtr
clutch/flywheel combo tool (best option that alot of us use)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afb489980&vxp=mtr
Heres the crank seal from clutch side. I used a belt before I saw the last posts. It looks like it just pushed out. Maybe he put too much air in it when he leak tested it but I dont think he leak tested it. If he did and sold it like that on purpose, that would be screwed up. Of course he did silicone the head bolts.
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Wow! Jeff, If it were me, that seal alone would make me want to tear the enitre thing down and start fresh. At least then you know its done right!!
