I picked up a 2003 blaster that sat for a loooooong time and the gas has crystalized in the carb. I have gone through and cleaned it several times and it is getting better but still not running right. I think I need to just replace the carb. I have heard a bunch of people moving to the Keihin carb. Is this a good choice over the Mikuni? The blaster is 100% stock and I have no big plans for it in the near future (Maybe a pipe and upgraded air filter). What size Keihin should I look for? What else will I need to do to get one installed? Throttle cable? Boots? Are these fairly reliable carbs? It will be used primarily for trail riding and such.
Carb Recommendations
- Thread starter Teqmod
- Start date
Agree. x2... ^^^^^^^
here is a nice stock carb with a TCI Twist throttle, great price...
EBAY Carb Deal
AND, you can always have your stock carb ported/bored for later performance if need be, I had this service done by RBDesigns with great results, check them out via the hyperlink in my sig.
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I saw a few on ebay as well but not too sure on whether getting a used one from ebay is the way to go. I might end up with one with the same issues. I saw the Keihin on there that was new.
Ebay Carb
I would prefer a new one but if it requires alot of modifications and other pieces to install I will probably stay away. I am assuming it would need a new throttle cable and I should get a jet kit to dial it in. Would I need new boots for the 28mm? Is there anything else I am missing? Are these good carbs or more suited for race applications instead of "daily driver" types?
Ebay Carb
I would prefer a new one but if it requires alot of modifications and other pieces to install I will probably stay away. I am assuming it would need a new throttle cable and I should get a jet kit to dial it in. Would I need new boots for the 28mm? Is there anything else I am missing? Are these good carbs or more suited for race applications instead of "daily driver" types?
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just get a carb rebuild kit.....and clean/soak the carb in gas or a cleaner for a day....put the rebuild kit in and you should be good to go
sorry here is a link to the kit
YAMAHA YFS 200 BLASTER CARBURETOR CARB REPAIR KIT 88-02 : eBay Motors (item 390144059846 end time Apr-16-10 00:14:59 PDT)
YAMAHA YFS 200 BLASTER CARBURETOR CARB REPAIR KIT 88-02 : eBay Motors (item 390144059846 end time Apr-16-10 00:14:59 PDT)
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Exactly, ^^^^ what he said.
You may have to replace the jets if you can't get the gunk out of them, and even if you can, you might want to replace them anyway. When you soak your carb, make sure you pull the jets out and pull it completely apart. Spraying it with carb cleaner is not cleaning it. Do it right and you won't have problems (TORS Excepted), those things are indestructable.
I have not let it soak yet, will do that tonight and order the kit. I have one of the carb baths used for auto carbs. I was going to use it for this unless there is any reason not too. The Idle port was completely blocked as were both jets and the brass tube that runs to the main jet had all the little holes up the sides blocked. I got all of those cleaned but it still is not running well.
Now...As for the TORS. What are the symptoms of this failing? Will just unplugging it from the carb eliminate this issue or do I need to do more. I unplugged it thinking if it was having ill effects on the way this thing was running that would eliminate it. Is this a true statement or do I need to do more?
Auto Carb bath is fine. Same rules apply...no rubber parts. They expand!
Do a search for TORS. If it's not adjusted properly it won't rev. If you just unplug it, it won't rev. There is a black box under the hood with a Black wire with yellow tracer ( I think) that should be tied together..... There are detailed write ups about how to disconnect the TORS all over here. That said, if there is any possiblity your carb might stick (and it sounds like there is), it may be a good idea to get your TORS set up properly. It's not a bad idea as long as everything works.....in theory.
In a nutshell, all it is, is two switches; one in the carb, and one in the throttle. The TORS sysyem wants to see the both closed at the same time, or both open at the same time. If it thinks the thumb throttle is closed and the carb slide is open, it wont allow it to rev. A problem in either area will cause it to not rev.
I'm sure the other guys can give you a much better description than this if needed. In your case, just make sure that nothing is binding before disabling the TORS.
Ask Kennedy.He will tell you to use a 34-35 mm carb.Thats what he told me for my motor but didn't want to spend that much on a carb.
Thanks for the recommendations. I am starting to wonder about the TORS but there are so many opinions on it it is hard to make sense. It will start and idle sort of but not great. Give it some throttle and it just bogs and stalls. I read somewhere that the TORS can cause this. I thought the TORS just killed the spark so I ruled it out. Is this something I should look at more? I think I am going to start a new thread since this is no longer recommendations but more troubleshooting.
--- hey.
about the TORS.. it's a throttle arrestor system. unless it actually is failing you, my general piece of advice would be to leave it well alone... when they begin to fail, you will notice things like: if it wasnt workign at all, it might over-rev quite a bit, or it may affect the actual power going to your blaster, and it will seem kinda sluggish.. lots of things..
--and about the carb.. if i may make a suggestion,
go out and get a 28mm pwk or a 30mm carb, the stock carb (correct me if im wrong) is 26mm? and that's just too small. a 30mm is a decent choice if you can get your jetting right. when my blaster was stock a long time ago (other than a K&N airfilter and an FMF powercoreII pipe) i ran a 30mm, and it ran beautifully after i jetted it.. (Just a Suggestion)
Would it cause a machine to start, not really idle, backfire and die when you gave it a little throttle? I don't necessarily want to eliminate the TORS just yet, I do however want to eliminate it as a possible cause for the issues I am experiencing. From reading the wiring diagram I have disconnected it from the carb and jumped it at the throttle. This should indicate to the system the throttle is open on both sensors. Still nothing better. With the throttle sensor not open it does not even attempt to start.
Thanks for the recommendation for the carb. If I do switch over what else will I need besides the cable? Will everything else fit properly?
So many different opinions on what the TORS actually does. All I know for sure, is that it does NOT shut off fuel, but controls ignition. That said, I don't know to what extent it controls the ignition other than if it sees thumb throttle closed, and carb switch open, you are FUBAR.
The TORS doesn't normally have any issues other than the switches getting stuck. It has a crappy reputation but is really a great safety feature. I've been on a couple of big bore bikes that decided to hang up at WOT and I wish I had TORS on them!
If you can use an OHM meter, just pull the side cover off the TORS at the carb and top cover at the thumb throttle and test to see that the switches open and close (mechanically and electrically) as they should. If they are, My guess is it's o.k. If you switch to a different carb, you have to do a TORS delete anyway, so may as well start there. Also, if you switch you have to get rid of the oil injection set-up and run pre-mix with most carbs.... if you're keeping it stock, the 26mm is just fine. I do run a 30mm on mine and it is much better than the stock one.... but if just want it to run, get it dialed in with the stocker first...there can't really be anything wrong with the carb except its all gummed up.
Airwave brings up a good point though. We don't know how long this was sitting, if the reeds are o.k. if the rings are o.k, if the seals maybe dried up and it's sucking air etc etc.
Do a compression test, spray some brake or carb cleaner around the crank seals just to make sure they're all o.k. and cover your other basic checks first since this thing is all dried up. Lets see where we are at. It may not even be all carb related.
The TORS doesn't normally have any issues other than the switches getting stuck. It has a crappy reputation but is really a great safety feature. I've been on a couple of big bore bikes that decided to hang up at WOT and I wish I had TORS on them!
If you can use an OHM meter, just pull the side cover off the TORS at the carb and top cover at the thumb throttle and test to see that the switches open and close (mechanically and electrically) as they should. If they are, My guess is it's o.k. If you switch to a different carb, you have to do a TORS delete anyway, so may as well start there. Also, if you switch you have to get rid of the oil injection set-up and run pre-mix with most carbs.... if you're keeping it stock, the 26mm is just fine. I do run a 30mm on mine and it is much better than the stock one.... but if just want it to run, get it dialed in with the stocker first...there can't really be anything wrong with the carb except its all gummed up.
Airwave brings up a good point though. We don't know how long this was sitting, if the reeds are o.k. if the rings are o.k, if the seals maybe dried up and it's sucking air etc etc.
Do a compression test, spray some brake or carb cleaner around the crank seals just to make sure they're all o.k. and cover your other basic checks first since this thing is all dried up. Lets see where we are at. It may not even be all carb related.
When I got it, it did not run or do anything. I was told it needed a piston. I did a compression test and it has 150psi. Pulled the carb and cleaned it out. Pulled the reeds and they looked OK and got a pretty good look at the piston and it did not have any scoring. Checked for spark and had good spark. Put a new plug in it and tried to start and just could not get going. I pulled the carb again and did a more thorough cleaning since I now thought this might be the issue. I pulled the silencer off in case it was clogged. It started after about 8 kicks and sorta idled but backfired and died. This is still the case. It will start and run for a few seconds and die out. Opening the throttle does nothing but cause it to die.
O.K.... good so far. With it idling, spray some carb cleaner around the stator plate to check that seal, if the idle comes up or it dies out differently than normal, you have a seal leaking. To check the other seal, just put your finger or a vacuum gauge on the crankcase vent tube.. if it has vacuum, you have a seal leaking.
If all that checks good, soak that carb and the jets for a day, then blow out all orifices with compressed air realy good. Also remember, there is a tiny hole in the center of that pilot jet, not just the holes in the sides. you should just barely be able to see light all the way through that pilot jet. If you can't it's still plugged. Best bet is to replace the jets, those pilots are tough to get clean.
