Carb Recommendations

[Brainmatter]

So I started reading around here more on this TORS system and saw a post I unplugged this and it actually tries to run. It will throttle up to an extent. Time to get rid of the TORS. Been chasing my tail for two weeks now and I keep coming to this as the most likely cause. I have read alot of posts and never saw anything about a parking brake switch. Here is thethread It says something about removing everything and grounding the green wire. Is this correct?

Man! Back to where we started! I wish I knew for sure. I can take pics of my electrical system, but mines a '98. If yours is newer, the module is different. I also have a spare ignition box I could send. BTW... How strong is the spark? It could also be a weak coil... It could be a sheared off crank keyway... any number of things... At least we're getting there through a process of elimination.

 

[Teqmod]

Man! Back to where we started! I wish I knew for sure. I can take pics of my electrical system, but mines a '98. If yours is newer, the module is different. I also have a spare ignition box I could send. BTW... How strong is the spark? It could also be a weak coil... It could be a sheared off crank keyway... any number of things... At least we're getting there through a process of elimination.

Yeah, getting real frustrating. I am going to eliminate the TORS first. Everytime I start looking at the issue this is always in the background and apparently is more integrated in the newer blasters. Since the manual I have is for an older blaster it shows nothing about the Parking Brake Switch. In the forum post I referenced there were 2 ways listed for eliminating the TORS. One was grounding hte green wire coming from the stator and another was something about grounding one yellow wire and leaving another open. If I eliminate it, and the issue is still there, at least I know it wasn't the TORS system.

Thanks for the offer on the ignition box. I am not sure if it will work on the 03 or not since the TORS controller is internal and the stator is different.

 

[Teqmod]

I think I have found it. The Pin is sheared on the crank at the Stator. Luckily the crank is not damaged. Where can I get one of these pins/keys?

 

[Brainmatter]

I think I have found it. The Pin is sheared on the crank at the Stator. Luckily the crank is not damaged. Where can I get one of these pins/keys?

They are pretty cheap right from the dealer, otherwise you can get one from ebay. If you get an offset one it does improve botmm end torque somewhat. I think they are $12 or something like that.

The thing that bothers me about the crank keys breaking is that with the flywheel properly torqued, there is an interference fit between the flywheel and crank. There should be no pressure on the key. If the flywheel is under torqued, this will break the key way, and if it is overtorqued, it can crack the flywheel right at the keyway groove.Check and make sure the keyway groove is not cracked. If not, you should be good to go! I:I

 

[Teqmod]

They are pretty cheap right from the dealer, otherwise you can get one from ebay. If you get an offset one it does improve botmm end torque somewhat. I think they are $12 or something like that.

The thing that bothers me about the crank keys breaking is that with the flywheel properly torqued, there is an interference fit between the flywheel and crank. There should be no pressure on the key. If the flywheel is under torqued, this will break the key way, and if it is overtorqued, it can crack the flywheel right at the keyway groove.Check and make sure the keyway groove is not cracked. If not, you should be good to go! I:I

Picked up 2 of them from Lowes for $0.50 each. I am putting it back together tonight. I read a trick about taking some valve grinding compound and seating the flywheel back to the crank. I might do this just tho see the contact area between the two and make sure it hasn't been too chewed up. Torque it down and hopefully that is it!!