Carb-Jetting-Reeds Problem

CPRchris

New Member
Jan 12, 2010
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Northumberland County, Ontario
Hi guys (and gals), long time lurker, first time poster !

My buddy and I got an 1989 Blaster a few months ago, roughly late September. It has had some mods to it, but not much from what I can gather. The tailpipe has a TYPE II DG sticker on it, unsure if it's just a sticker, or actually that exhaust, it has the original front light gone and a circular one added down lower towards the front bumper, and from what we can tell, it also has the TORS removed.

When we went out to to look at it, we got it started and had it running, and everything seemed fine. Buddy selling it told us he had been mixing it at 50-1 with chainsaw oil cause thats all he had at the time :o ( It was a farm atv if you can imagine that ) He had bought it for his grandkids, but later realized what a Blaster was, and promptly wanted to sell it.

Anyways, we got it home, drained all the 50-1 mix, and put fresh 92 octane with a 36-1 mix with Castrol Super 2. We let it idle for a while and booted around the yard to make sure it was using all new gas, and then took it out for a ride (Mid October) We took it for a 3 hour ride a few weeks later (Early November) and it ran great. The next day we went to start it, and couldnt get it going.

Well, finally this past week, we got around to tinkering with it. We dumped all the gas, and refilled with 92 octane mixed at 36-1 with Lucas semi-synthetic. I ordered new Yamaha Reeds from the dealer here in town, and took out the old ones. Two of the old carbon fibre ones had cracks in them. We also went out and got a new spark plug and some spares. We tried to get it going, but couldnt....even with a little spray of ether into the air intake at the filter. We hooked it up to the truck, and I towed it down the road while he tried to jump it to get it going. We were going 16kmh (10mph) and he put it into first, popped the clutch and presto, we had it running....

It blew alot of smoke at first, and would die out if we let our thumb off the throttle, so we kept it running above idle to warm it up, and then tried a little test drive. In mid band to highband to wot, it seemed to run great. As soon as we slowed down or idled, it was all boggy and wanted to die.

We got it home, and figured it was a carb prob. I am familiar with 2 stroke carbs, I've cleaned them before, but never one off a blaster. I got it off, and had it all apart, cleaned it with canned air, and put it back together.

The needle is good, set for the 2nd notch from the top, the pilot is a 25, and the main is a 230. On one of the floats at the bottom, there is a little wear, but everything else looks perfect. When we try to start it, gas drips out from the bottom of the float bowl it seems, either from the gasket, or a drain valve.

Any suggestions ? We are going to take it in to get it looked at soon, but I thought I would give it a try here first. Could the disconnected wires up front have anything to do with it ? They have always been disconnected......anyone know what they are for ?

Here are some pictures of the Blaster in my album here, http://www.blasterforum.com/members/cprchris-8319/albums/89-blaster/

I cant get my other pictures to upload to this post, your stuck with the album ones for now !
 
did you try the parking brake? my friend had the same problem and he thought it was the carb it was leaking petrol but he got it fixed. the parking brake then started to play up but he cut the cable coming from it.
 
Ok I've added a few more pictures to my album, can you tell me whats inside the colored circles, and what they are for ?

Carb : http://www.blasterforum.com/members/cprchris-8319/albums/89-blaster/2104-colored-circles/ the screw on the right is for air at low end, correct ? whats the big one on the left for ?

Front end electrical : http://www.blasterforum.com/members/cprchris-8319/albums/89-blaster/2105-colored-circles/

Red =
Green = Wire from yellow circled box on left side of pic
Yellow = boxes for ?
 
Welcome to the forum! While i was browsing through your pictures, i found something that is very important!!! The nipple on the right side of the carb where the oil injection tube plugs in is open! It needs to be capped off!!! If not you will leak air and run lean!
 
The silver box with the blue wire coming out is the voltage regulator. The black box with the yellow and black wires and triangular plug is the TORS system. The other box below that is the CDI.

I would recommend taking the TORS off completely, take the black box off, follow the wires up to the throttle assembly and remove all of that. Then make sure the TORS is unplugged at the carb.

I'm not sure if the voltage regulator matters whether its plugged in or not, except for the use of lights. I know I ran mine with a bad regulator but I just left it plugged in.

The problem that blaster200boy found could be causing your problems, or at least adding to it. Make sure you clean that port up good and plug it off, so no dirt or air can get through it.

Hope this helped. Good luck
 
Rideyamaha09, thats the thing, we have no wires running from anywhere at the carb, generally don't the TORS wires run out from the top of the carb ?

Blaster200boy, I added another shot with what I think you mean from the right side towards the air side.....in this picture, http://www.blasterforum.com/members/cprchris-8319/albums/89-blaster/2122-squares3/ you mean A, correct ? Should I have a hose for it from somewhere, or just plug it ? We premix our oil into the gas, so I assume it should be plugged. I never noticed that before, lol !

Tomorrow I'm gonna take off the carb again and clean it fully outside and inside again.....when we put it back together last night, we did something to it in the dark and now only have a quarter throttle when we push the thumb control.

I'll take off the TORS fully tomorrow. It's ok to take all wires out coming and going from it ?

chris
 
get that oil injection hole plugged, mix your gas/oil 32:1, airscrew at 1 1/2 turns out to start, and i dint look at the pics, but if the tors is removed it may need an idle screw, and definately check the compression, 100+ psi minumum
 
It looks like the TORS box that goes on top the carb is already gone. I didn't notice that in the pics before. You will be fine removing all the TORS wiring, including the black box for the TORS. I'd recommend putting a little dab of black silicone in the plug on the throttle assembly just to keep water out, it will have a hole in it once the wires are removed.
 
CPRChris, "A" is the correct square! That should be plugged! It might not seem like much, but it actually matters a bunch! Over time, that will make it run so lean that it will lose compression! I dont know if you know what im talking about, but if you have ever noticed on the ends of your metal closet shelves there are rubber boots on the ends of em' so you dont cut or hurt yourself, lol, but thats what you can put over "A" (oil injection hole) to make it not suck excess air. Along with the rubber boot that would go on it, you need a SMALL wire tie to finish the job. And while your doing this work, clean that dirty lookin' carb inside and out! use some CRC Brake Clean for the outside! You can use Carb Cleaner for inside and Sea Foam works really well too!!!
 
Tomorrow I'm gonna take off the carb again and clean it fully outside and inside again.....when we put it back together last night, we did something to it in the dark and now only have a quarter throttle when we push the thumb control.

Your throttle cable is either kinked or you didn't push your Carb slide down in far enough!
 
awk08 :
get that oil injection hole plugged, mix your gas/oil 32:1, airscrew at 1 1/2 turns out to start, and i dint look at the pics, but if the tors is removed it may need an idle screw, and definately check the compression, 100+ psi minumum

http://www.blasterforum.com/members/cprchris-8319/albums/89-blaster/2104-colored-circles/

In the picture above, air screw meaning the one circled on the left in this pic ?

Idle screw on right ?


blaster200boy :
metal closet shelves ? do suitcases and boxes of crap count as shelves ? B) Yea this carb is monster dirty on the outside, but was almost spotless on the inside.....buddy took it out through some mud puddles and then into a sand pit....making me wonder about the old oil injection hole what I missed in the carb when I quickly took it apart the other day to check.


I'll post some before, during, and after shots tomorrow when I work on 'er.

All you folks have been oh so helpful thus far, far more then I imagined !

Now, if anyone can help me on the attaching of jpgs to my posts......mine are all within the guidelines, and I can post fine on other vBulletins forums....:p


chris
 
awk08 :
blaster200boy :
metal closet shelves ? do suitcases and boxes of crap count as shelves ? B) Yea this carb is monster dirty on the outside, but was almost spotless on the inside.....buddy took it out through some mud puddles and then into a sand pit....making me wonder about the old oil injection hole what I missed in the carb when I quickly took it apart the other day to check.

chris

This is what I'm talking about =======> http://www.blasterforum.com/members/blaster200boy-7152/albums/random/2138-same/

There on the ends of Closet Metal Shelves!
 
orrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr you could get vacuum caps from your favorite parts store I:I
 
orrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr you could get vacuum caps from your favorite parts store I:I


I'm trying to lead him in a more cheaply manner,lol.

Its up to you, you can go to a store and get vacuum caps for like 25 cents plus gas, or you could go the cheap way like i showed ya! You just need a small wire tie!
 
Well folks, got that dang carb all put back together after a very thorough cleaning......wow, it was alot more filthy then what I initally thought it was ! Turns out the oil injection hole had already been plugged before, I checked it over and it was good as you'll see in the pictures.

Now that it's all back together, I wanna just set the screws before I go to start it.....

Air screw out 1.5 turns, and idle screw in all the way, correct ?

oh yes, here are the pictures of the cleaning......
http://www.blasterforum.com/members/cprchris-8319/albums/cleaning-carb/


chris
 
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You are correct about the air screw being 1.5 turns out. I'm not sure about what the correct starting point is for the idle screw, hopefully someone can help you out there. Did you plug off the port where the oil line used to run into the carb, I can't tell from the pics. Overall, the carb looks much better after getting cleaned up.
 
It was plugged before, on the outside its plugged, on the inside I can see where it went into the carb, its not plugged on the inside however, but as long as its plugged, it wont suck any air in, should be all good !


You are correct about the air screw being 1.5 turns out. I'm not sure about what the correct starting point is for the idle screw, hopefully someone can help you out there. Did you plug off the port where the oil line used to run into the carb, I can't tell from the pics. Overall, the carb looks much better after getting cleaned up.
 
Went out and tried starting it with the air screw 1.5 turns out.....started up 3rd kick !!!!

Sounded great, went for a little test around the yard, made it halfway and she died, sounded like it bogged right out X(

Waited a few minutes, kicked her over and fired right up.....idled and reved it a little bit for 5 minutes, and in the mid to high band, it started to backfire some and I saw the occasional flame shooting out the tailpipe :o

Started it up, idled for a few seconds, then seemed to bog out again. I let it sit for a few minutes and then start it and it fires up, and then bogs out a minute later.

Any ideas guys ??



Chris