Can't get my crank oil seal out!
- Thread starter sam0840
- Start date
How steady is your drill hand? 
Yes, I'm serious. I've had to resort to this method to extract more than one seal with a vengance. What you'll need to do is CAREFULLY drill a hole in the center of the seal, halfway between the crankshaft lip and the engine case. Once you have a hole in the seal, screw a short sheet metal screw into the seal, and pull the seal free using the screw as a grab point for pliers. A sheet metal screw will hold fast, bringing the seal out with it when you give a pull. You can drill another hole 180 degrees apart from the first one, if you wind up needing more leverage or another grab point.
Just a word of caution: I am not responsible for any damage you may cause to a main bearing if you go too far with the drill bit. The best way to avoid this situation is to use a sharp drill bit, and run the drill slowly to prevent the bit from biting too fast to control. Also, don't put much pressure on the drill. Let the bit, not your arms, do the work. As soon as the bit punctures the seal, STOP! Reverse the drill and back the bit out. You only need to put a hole in the seal. Not in anything lurking beneath.
Tip: I wouldn't go any larger than a 3/16" hole. You can use any length of sheet metal screw you choose, but remember that you only need to tighten it down a thread or two. The screw could also damage the bearing if put in too far.
Dramatic warnings aside, this procedure isn't too involved. I promise. Just take your time, and save the beer for the celebration AFTER the seal lies defeated in the trash can. I:I
Yes, I'm serious. I've had to resort to this method to extract more than one seal with a vengance. What you'll need to do is CAREFULLY drill a hole in the center of the seal, halfway between the crankshaft lip and the engine case. Once you have a hole in the seal, screw a short sheet metal screw into the seal, and pull the seal free using the screw as a grab point for pliers. A sheet metal screw will hold fast, bringing the seal out with it when you give a pull. You can drill another hole 180 degrees apart from the first one, if you wind up needing more leverage or another grab point.Just a word of caution: I am not responsible for any damage you may cause to a main bearing if you go too far with the drill bit. The best way to avoid this situation is to use a sharp drill bit, and run the drill slowly to prevent the bit from biting too fast to control. Also, don't put much pressure on the drill. Let the bit, not your arms, do the work. As soon as the bit punctures the seal, STOP! Reverse the drill and back the bit out. You only need to put a hole in the seal. Not in anything lurking beneath.
Tip: I wouldn't go any larger than a 3/16" hole. You can use any length of sheet metal screw you choose, but remember that you only need to tighten it down a thread or two. The screw could also damage the bearing if put in too far.
Dramatic warnings aside, this procedure isn't too involved. I promise. Just take your time, and save the beer for the celebration AFTER the seal lies defeated in the trash can. I:I
No prob, dude! Hope you git 'er dun! I:I
BTW, you can add to anybody's rep by clicking on the center button below their rep counter.
in the manual it actually tells you to pull it out by drilling a hole like that
just in brapters words save the beer for after and kudos to brapter if obnly they wrote the manual the way you just explained that hah
just in brapters words save the beer for after and kudos to brapter if obnly they wrote the manual the way you just explained that hah
Good idea, but this concept only works for installing bearings and other metal parts. In fact, if you freeze a seal prior to installation, you will make the rubber brittle. The 'new' seal may not be so new after it cracks while you're trying to tap it in! I'd just leave the quad in a warm place overnight, to help warm up the cases and make the install easier.
A new seal will have to fit tight, in order to stay in place. You shouldn't freeze it. You can, however, pack plenty of lithium grease inside the inner lip of the new seal before installing it. A coat of clean engine oil around the outer rim is also good. This will help it to slide right into place. An appropriately-sized piece of PVC pipe works GREAT for tapping the new seal home the last 1/2" or so. The hollow pipe fits right around the crank, and it helps to put even pressure on the seal while you drive it home.
Good luck! Any more prob's, just ask!
yea it just seemed way too tight! i got the moose racing seals. but i did try a socket to pound it in but i think the edge was too thin and kind of deformed the edge of the seal so i'll try the pvc. the rim on the case seems to have some grime on it...any tips on taking it off with out crap falling into the bearing? its stuck on way too good to wipe off with a rag
I just use a razor blade (or hobby knife), a rag, some carburetor cleaner, and elbow grease. Any powered cleaning tool will indeed fling the crap into the bearing. If you can clean the case by hand, at least you are able to control where most of the debris falls. Compressed air helps with clean-up, too, after all the chunks have been taken off. I bet this stuff is overheated, coked-on oil. It is nasty, indeed. Carburetor or brake cleaner (and gloves, of course) make the job a bit more tolerable. 8-|
Hello,
I had heard about the drill method but I broke the drill bit off inside and it sounded like it dropped. Any suggestions please. Not sure what to do.
I had heard about the drill method but I broke the drill bit off inside and it sounded like it dropped. Any suggestions please. Not sure what to do.
Time for a rebuild or atleasr gotta split the cases and get that all out of there or bye bye blaster
