bottom end
- Thread starter biggrobb762
- Start date
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
are there any symptoms that lead you to this train of thought? what year is the bike and how hard has it worked?
You can tell if it gets water into the gearbox oil hence turning it a milky colour, thats a big "fix me" message as your crank seals are then officially dead
You can tell if it gets water into the gearbox oil hence turning it a milky colour, thats a big "fix me" message as your crank seals are then officially dead
two ways
#1 leak down test. this will show if you have a bad seal.
#2 remove the left side cover, grab the flywheel with both hands and lift it strait up and down. Do not turn it at all just lift it up and down. If you feel or hear any play while liftingup and down the bearings are worn and should be replaced.
#1 leak down test. this will show if you have a bad seal.
#2 remove the left side cover, grab the flywheel with both hands and lift it strait up and down. Do not turn it at all just lift it up and down. If you feel or hear any play while liftingup and down the bearings are worn and should be replaced.
ok i will try the fly wheel and the reason why is when i start it i hear some what of a knock but dont know where its coming from
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
blasters are known to have a certain characteristic knock/tick sounds which is normal but if its a new noise then something is probably worn
well the problem is that i got it real cheap $200 and it wasnt running and the guy said it needed a cdi and just like it told him it was the stator so i fixed ir got it running and now theres a knock but most of all it wont rev up just stays at a rough idle and whem
n i hit the throttle it gets throaty but the rpm will not go up so i dont have a clue ive cleaned the carb checked the reeds and it still wont rev
n i hit the throttle it gets throaty but the rpm will not go up so i dont have a clue ive cleaned the carb checked the reeds and it still wont rev
Could be the parking brake screwing up. When its working its supposed to keep the engine from revving when the parking brake is on. The sensor can mess up sometimes. Or it could be tors. If you need a manual theres a link you can use to download one in my sigVVVVVVV
i took all the tors off and have just basic wiring cdi, stator, and coil so i know thats not the problem im thinking its low compresion
How many kicks did it take to start? Can you push the kickstart down easily with your hand? A proper compression tester is like $10-20 at an auto parts store.
TORS is a kill switch only. it will not make an engine run poorly. You either have spark or you dont.
It takes 3 minutes to set up and test a TORS system if you dont have spark
It takes 3 minutes to set up and test a TORS system if you dont have spark
it only takes like 1-2 kicks and it starts ive even tried a different set of reeds and a different carb same thing happened i even put a different exhaust thinking maybe it was clogged up for some reason from sitting and still same thing and when i do put my hand on the kick starter and put just a lil presure on it i can feel the compression but it does fade away real easy
well heres the problem that started the bottom end knock whats next but its all good i have another motor to use while i rebuild
Oh my, well now that you've found the problem, it's time to pull that bottom end apart and rebuild it.
just curious to what causes broken pistons.bad crank bearings or conecting rod breaings or both?
Usually, excessive piston to cylinder clearance.
Imagine the piston sliding up and down in the cylinder as fast as it does. As the crankshaft moves through its motion the piston is "pushed" front and back as well. The piston skirts are designed with strong parts inside of them as "thrust surfaces" to keep this forward to backward movement or rocking motion under control so that the piston can move up and down without slamming forward and backward too hard. As the piston to cylinder clearance gets out of spec, however, the piston is allowed more and more room to "rock" slamming the thrust surface of the piston skirt against the cylinder harder and harded with each stroke. Finally, when the piston to cylinder clearance is too great, the piston slams up against the cylinder and creates a crack.
From then it's simply physics as to when and where the piece lets loose and how much damage it does on it's way out.
Obviously other things can create a broken piston skirt; IFO, damage while it was being assembled, or just a manufacturing defect. But normally cylinder to piston clearance problems.
Imagine the piston sliding up and down in the cylinder as fast as it does. As the crankshaft moves through its motion the piston is "pushed" front and back as well. The piston skirts are designed with strong parts inside of them as "thrust surfaces" to keep this forward to backward movement or rocking motion under control so that the piston can move up and down without slamming forward and backward too hard. As the piston to cylinder clearance gets out of spec, however, the piston is allowed more and more room to "rock" slamming the thrust surface of the piston skirt against the cylinder harder and harded with each stroke. Finally, when the piston to cylinder clearance is too great, the piston slams up against the cylinder and creates a crack.
From then it's simply physics as to when and where the piece lets loose and how much damage it does on it's way out.
Obviously other things can create a broken piston skirt; IFO, damage while it was being assembled, or just a manufacturing defect. But normally cylinder to piston clearance problems.
yeah i have another motor im going to use and ima get a wiseco total rebuild kit and go from there thats seems like alot of fun
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