bot a blaster, came with fast parts for install.. please help :)

[brianblasts]

Kinda confusing the way he wrote it.
You start with your jetting on the known/safe/rich side. You do a plug chop for each jet and work your way down, until the chopped plug tells you that you have the correct jetting.

But, if you do indeed build 800hp vettes, you won't need to "chop" the plug.

I do, built two supras, 4 mustangs and eight camaros. This vette is my latest project. I can figure my way around cars, but i know to keep my mouth shut on things im unfamilair with.

 

[brianblasts]

Kinda confusing the way he wrote it.
You start with your jetting on the known/safe/rich side. You do a plug chop for each jet and work your way down, until the chopped plug tells you that you have the correct jetting.

But, if you do indeed build 800hp vettes, you won't need to "chop" the plug.

I do, built two supras, 4 mustangs and eight camaros. This vette is my latest project. I can figure my way around cars, but i know to keep my mouth shut on things im unfamilair with.

 

[brianblasts]

This is where we're at right now its 10 at night. Piston and jug are on. new clutch, 14 tooth front sproket. Still need to jet the carb put on exhaust v-force 3 read cage. Then start it up

 

[tbrooks]

I can figure my way around cars, but i know to keep my mouth shut on things im unfamilair with.

Good for you man. 2 strokes are a different animal. Looks alot like my buddies old vette, early 90's? His had some go, but the steering took some getting used to, especially on the mtn. rds up here, was like driving a 4 wheeler lol. I see you got your exhaust on, have you done a leakdown test yet?

 

[brianblasts]

Good for you man. 2 strokes are a different animal. Looks alot like my buddies old vette, early 90's? His had some go, but the steering took some getting used to, especially on the mtn. rds up here, was like driving a 4 wheeler lol. I see you got your exhaust on, have you done a leakdown test yet?

Thats my first vette and i love it. I thought my supra was the whip till i got this vette. Drives like a dream. I just finished up tearing it completly down and redoing everything.

Anyway, blaster started up on second kick... Very boggy, feels like the choke is on. Sounds great but definitly gonna have to work the carb in the morning. Ill post vid of it running tomorrow as well

 

[joeak47]

Looking good! Concentrate on the jetting.

 

[brianblasts]

Looking good! Concentrate on the jetting.

No power and idleing high.... Please help.

 

[joeak47]

First make sure that the carb slide is closing all the way. If it is, without question, closed all the way, start looking for air leaks. Did you do a leak down test? If not, Now is the time! Please don't burn up your new engine, because you didn't check for leaks.

 

[brianblasts]

First make sure that the carb slide is closing all the way. If it is, without question, closed all the way, start looking for air leaks. Did you do a leak down test? If not, Now is the time! Please don't burn up your new engine, because you didn't check for leaks.

We Are not finding any leaks. We're just lost on these jets and needle adjustments. We are getting all kinds of different results now but NOTHING impressive. With all these mods, i cant even get it to pop the front in up. .... We are just lost.

 

[joeak47]

What main jet, pilot jet, air/fuel screw turns, needle clip position, etc are you at? I would start with the needle clip in the middle position. Main jet ... start big and work your way down. Air/fuel screw 1.5 too 2 turns out. Did you do a leak down test or not? Saying ... "It doesn't have any leaks" doesn't count. That high idle is saying to me ...air leak.

 

[tbrooks]

Yep has to be tested with a proper tester, and hold pressure for a few minutes, or your gonna have hell getting the carb right

 

[speedyslyder]

im a late comer to your thread..but not sure if i read it all?
dry your filter with a hair dryer if in a hurry
ngk b8es spark plug
normal psi is 120psi...a modded cylinder head from kor will give you a huge power/psi boost.
carb settings are huge
some pipes will hit hard at lower rpms/some pipes will hit hard at high rpms.
a stock blaster is only 17hp..yet tons of fun...most pipes add a 20% hp increase,
leak test and compression test are 2 different things in case anyone reading this gets confused lol.
by the way what is your compression at?
high idles are either improper carb setting's or airleak's.....blow on a fire it get's bigger/whether it be a forest fire
or a controlled explosion in your cylinder/engine

 

[Larry's Shee]

I see no mention of heat cycles and re-torque
No mention of leakdown test before initial start-up.
Just because it has new gaskets or whatever, doesn't mean it's leak free.

 

[brianblasts]

I see no mention of heat cycles and re-torque
No mention of leakdown test before initial start-up.
Just because it has new gaskets or whatever, doesn't mean it's leak free.

We Did do the re-torque. We have done everything you guys have mentioned. I really think its just coming down to our lack of experience with these jets. I'm also suspicious of a sticky "slide" the throttle thingy that goes up and down in the carb lol

Its parked till probably the weekend now till we can tear back into it.

As of right now it is set with needle at middle grove, stock pilot jet and #330 main jet. We have gone up with the jets but not down yet. So next weekend we will go down and see how that works.

Something that might help you smarter then me guys. We keep hearing a hissing burst out the exhaust. Almost like a backfire minus the pop* thinking we are just running way rich right now. Thats out the back of the exhaust NOT in the front..... All the way at the back lol dont want to confuse

 

[jus_me]

Do you have a flywheel puller? If so than pull the flywheel to make sure the woodruf key hadn't sheered off.

Remember,, To try and one circuit at a time, the main jet has nothing to do with idle or start up. The main kicks in at 3/4 to full throttle. The airscrew and pilot are up to 1/4 throttle, the needle jet (not the needle itself but the brass tube it slides in) is about 1/8 to about 34 throttle, then the actual needle for just under 1/4 to just over 3/4 throttle then the main at 3/4 to full. As you can see there are quite a few overlapping jetting circuits from 0-1/4 throttle. Make sure carb is cleaned very well and you can see light through all the jets. Make sure float height is correct also.
This should also help you out. http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/


It wont hurt to also check that your silencer is free flowing and that there isn't any blockage in there. Critter nest,,, gobbed with oil, broken reed, etc...

 

[jus_me]

Also note that Dynoport made 2 different pipes. One mid top and one big volume. Wondering which one you have since the jetting will be different and if you have one of the rarer big volume pipes on a standard bore cyl it might not be the best match up. If so than that can have allot to do with your feeling of lack of power. Does the power kick in at all at wot ?

 

[brianblasts]

Do you have a flywheel puller? If so than pull the flywheel to make sure the woodruf key hadn't sheered off.

Remember,, To try and one circuit at a time, the main jet has nothing to do with idle or start up. The main kicks in at 3/4 to full throttle. The airscrew and pilot are up to 1/4 throttle, the needle jet (not the needle itself but the brass tube it slides in) is about 1/8 to about 34 throttle, then the actual needle for just under 1/4 to just over 3/4 throttle then the main at 3/4 to full. As you can see there are quite a few overlapping jetting circuits from 0-1/4 throttle. Make sure carb is cleaned very well and you can see light through all the jets. Make sure float height is correct also.
This should also help you out. http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/


It wont hurt to also check that your silencer is free flowing and that there isn't any blockage in there. Critter nest,,, gobbed with oil, broken reed, etc...

Good post, thank you. We are getting better response on top end then Bottom. I only have two pilot jets to choose from. How do i even find pilot jets? I can find tons of main jets on ebay but no pilot jets. Does anyone have a part number or something for a better pilot jet i should maybe be using?

Sorry bout my grammer and incoherent sentences guys... Im on my phone at work.

 

[brianblasts]

Also note that Dynoport made 2 different pipes. One mid top and one big volume. Wondering which one you have since the jetting will be different and if you have one of the rarer big volume pipes on a standard bore cyl it might not be the best match up. If so than that can have allot to do with your feeling of lack of power. Does the power kick in at all at wot ?

No, i havent felt power band kick in at all yet. From all the reading iv done this morning, im thinking i should drop down to a #310 main jet as well.

The bore is .080 over. The man i bought the pipe/silencer from said he bought them for his "big bore kit" not sure if that means anything regarding the issues.

 

[jus_me]

It might be a big volume pipe than. Big bore kits usually refer to a 72mm + or a "240" cylinder. By having such a bigger pipe on a stock bore can certainly be hindering the performance. As far as the pilot jet it is in the bowl. When you take out the pilot make sure you can see light going through it. Also take note of the number on it a post your findings. While you have the carb off give everything a good clean and blow compressed air through all the passages, also check that float height is correct. While carb is off it would also be a good time to perform a leakdown test like foks have mentioned numerous times. There is no way you will ever get the carb jetted correctly if you have an air leak. I can almost guarantee that you are not leak free. They really like to leak either where the reed box meets the cyl or where the carb boot meets the reeds.

pilot jet is here.. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...647&thid=JN.GFIbsSzYBaQFri3As5DDgg&ajaxhist=0

 

[brianblasts]

It might be a big volume pipe than. Big bore kits usually refer to a 72mm + or a "240" cylinder. By having such a bigger pipe on a stock bore can certainly be hindering the performance. As far as the pilot jet it is in the bowl. When you take out the pilot make sure you can see light going through it. Also take note of the number on it a post your findings. While you have the carb off give everything a good clean and blow compressed air through all the passages, also check that float height is correct. While carb is off it would also be a good time to perform a leakdown test like foks have mentioned numerous times. There is no way you will ever get the carb jetted correctly if you have an air leak. I can almost guarantee that you are not leak free. They really like to leak either where the reed box meets the cyl or where the carb boot meets the reeds.

pilot jet is here.. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...647&thid=JN.GFIbsSzYBaQFri3As5DDgg&ajaxhist=0

Am i missing something? The bore is .080 over... Just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.

.080 ported jug with namara piston & ring
Dyno-port exhaust and silencer
V3 reed cage and reeds
Reed spacer
14 tooth front sprocket
New clutch

Thats everything we just did to it.

We've had the carb off quite a few times, cleaned and also rebuilt. I even ran it through my parts washer, carb is spotless and no leaks.