boost bottle

^^^^ bahaha... that funny... they really only show any improvement on dual carb systems like banshees where they can help equalize and maintain pressure in the engine... or something like that... just a waist of money
 
Some old yamaha bikes came from the factory with a boost bottle on them and it was designed to work on them, but i dont think the boost bottle will work well on a bike that was not designed for it..
 
It was proven they don't work on banshees either. I remember years ago someone did a dyno comparison on Bansheehq between boost bottle, stock cross over tube and plugged holes. The plugged holes made the most power.
 
Boost bottles provide a performance boost from idle or just off throttle to mid throttle on 2 stroke engines that don't use reed valves , my bro back in the late 80's and 90's designed and build and made a lot of money making them . The pocket bike rage used these engines that didn't have reed valves , just port timing and port position in the cylinder . This set up would cause air and fuel to always be forced back through the carburetor , causing a overrich ( subsequent bogging ) on the next on throttle position . Essentially the problem was cause on cornering so you have a powerloss getting back onto the throttle . The boost bottle gave that excess air and fuel a place to go instead of back through the carb and that aggitated atomized mixture is drawn from 1st from the boost bottle , it acts like a lung , the engine breathes first from it , then turns to the carb to keep feeding it fuel . The reed valves basically take the place of the bottle by trapping the excess air/fuel mixture in the crank case .
 
Boost bottles provide a performance boost from idle or just off throttle to mid throttle on 2 stroke engines that don't use reed valves , my bro back in the late 80's and 90's designed and build and made a lot of money making them . The pocket bike rage used these engines that didn't have reed valves , just port timing and port position in the cylinder . This set up would cause air and fuel to always be forced back through the carburetor , causing a overrich ( subsequent bogging ) on the next on throttle position . Essentially the problem was cause on cornering so you have a powerloss getting back onto the throttle . The boost bottle gave that excess air and fuel a place to go instead of back through the carb and that aggitated atomized mixture is drawn from 1st from the boost bottle , it acts like a lung , the engine breathes first from it , then turns to the carb to keep feeding it fuel . The reed valves basically take the place of the bottle by trapping the excess air/fuel mixture in the crank case .

good info and we played with them and seen no noticeable gains on minni quad
 
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Boost bottles provide a performance boost from idle or just off throttle to mid throttle on 2 stroke engines that don't use reed valves , my bro back in the late 80's and 90's designed and build and made a lot of money making them . The pocket bike rage used these engines that didn't have reed valves , just port timing and port position in the cylinder . This set up would cause air and fuel to always be forced back through the carburetor , causing a overrich ( subsequent bogging ) on the next on throttle position . Essentially the problem was cause on cornering so you have a powerloss getting back onto the throttle . The boost bottle gave that excess air and fuel a place to go instead of back through the carb and that aggitated atomized mixture is drawn from 1st from the boost bottle , it acts like a lung , the engine breathes first from it , then turns to the carb to keep feeding it fuel . The reed valves basically take the place of the bottle by trapping the excess air/fuel mixture in the crank case .

Very good info bro!!!!!!!!!I:I give him some rep....I:I
 
Hey thanks guys , sorry for the mis-spelled words and choppy english in that post , I was on the iphone and my meathooks tend to have difficulty typing on it from time to time . A year ago I was talking to my bro about the boost bottle theory and how it could be applied to the reed valve engines in the Blaster and Banshee . He said to make it work and to have a benefit from it a spacer block would need to be made that fit between the reed valve and the cylinder , and then a tap to add a tube that connects to the bottle . so as the backpressure pushes against the reeds , air/fuel would be drawn into the bottle , then sucked back out on the next intake charge . The bottle will on the intake charge will be emptied by the engine vacuum , then a vacuum is created inside the bottle and as the intake ports close the boost bottles vacuum pulls in some of the excess air/fuel , and in less than a second its partially forced out by the pressure now trapped in the bottle , and by the vacuum again created by the intake ports opening up . Would it make a Noticeable difference? I think the only way to tell is the ass-dyno . Maybe I'll have to make one and see what happends .
 
just put a boost bottle on, it would not idle right since then, so i was told to rejet the carb. in the procces I put on a k&n, 210 main jet and it idle like it is wide open, so much that i turned of the key hit the kill switch and yank the plug wire, turned off the gas, and guess what the damn thing kept running. I thought it was going to blow up. help please.
 
just put a boost bottle on, it would not idle right since then, so i was told to rejet the carb. in the procces I put on a k&n, 210 main jet and it idle like it is wide open, so much that i turned of the key hit the kill switch and yank the plug wire, turned off the gas, and guess what the damn thing kept running. I thought it was going to blow up. help please.

sounds like you have a massive air leak. take that stupid boost bottle off and fix whatever holes you put into the intake. also if a 230 is stock jetting why do you have a 210 in there??? :-/ :-/
 
just put a boost bottle on, it would not idle right since then, so i was told to rejet the carb. in the procces I put on a k&n, 210 main jet and it idle like it is wide open, so much that i turned of the key hit the kill switch and yank the plug wire, turned off the gas, and guess what the damn thing kept running. I thought it was going to blow up. help please.

air leak fix it before you run it and get that main jet outa there and put a bigger one in
 
Some old yamaha bikes came from the factory with a boost bottle on them and it was designed to work on them, but i dont think the boost bottle will work well on a bike that was not designed for it..
It was designed to have a boost bottle the dt200 comes with a boost bottle and the dt200 intake has the whole knocked out and it's the same intake as the blaster