I have a 2001 yamaha blaster, rebuilt the carb which was the main issue and also replaced the ignition coil. So the quad starts up, runs well at idle. But I put it in first gear, and no matter how slow I let out the clutch and how much gas I give it as soon as it hits a slow roll it dies. AND YES I KNOW HOW TO RIDE CLUTCH. I mean my clutch handle is pretty loose. I'm not sure what it could be.
Blaster Won't Get Out Of Idle
- Thread starter ineedanapnow
- Start date
Are you sure you are facing the door of the garage or facing hard up against the back wall.
Is the park brake off?
Does the slide in the carby come up when the throttle gets put on?
Why did you rebuild the carb, what was the previous issue?
Is there a good supply of fuel?
Could the float be sticking?
Have you leak tested lately?
Is the park brake off?
Does the slide in the carby come up when the throttle gets put on?
Why did you rebuild the carb, what was the previous issue?
Is there a good supply of fuel?
Could the float be sticking?
Have you leak tested lately?
Well the original issue was the float was sticking, so I replaced it and also some of the other valves were corroded so I replaced them too. Now i warm up the engine and I can give it all the gas I want in idle without it dying or bogging down. And it sounds fine in first gear until I start letting of the clutch, and I give it all the gas I want, as soon as it hits a full roll it dies.
If there was corrosion on the jets, just maybe the passages in the carb are too blocked.
You may need to soak it in cleaner overnight and then blow out with air.
You may need to soak it in cleaner overnight and then blow out with air.
I've cleaned the carb inside and out a lot. The inside of the carb itself was nasty when I first took it apart I'm guessing water got into it which makes sense because the quad was clearly stored outside. But really it seems to me the quad can't handle the load of coming into first gear. I REALLY need help in figuring out that issue, PLEASE. Everything else works perfect and this is the last piece of the puzzle to get it running correctly (minus a new chain and sprockets)
Float level should 20 to 21.5mm on a stock carby.
you want to turn the carb and hold it on a slight angle to measure the float height, like shown here......
it should just barely be touching the inner needle, not depressing it,
It is possible to check the fuel level by attaching a length of clear plastic tubing to the drain nipple , lifting it up the side of the carby, and cracking the drain screw.
The fuel should show in the pipe to the level of the carb body above the float bowl gasket.
Idle adjusting.
Set float level.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
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Well my carb was adjusted to all those specs you just listed. The true issue for some reason is that the engine can not handle getting into a full roll.
I just put something together, for whatever reason my carburetor is missing the idle adjuster screw!!
How can that be?
You said in the previous post that you had adjusted the idle to specs, who is confused, you or me?
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No I meant I set the engine air screw and float height to specs, I'm sorry I should have clarified, but also i printed out the giant service manual and in the carburetor spec image this idle screw doesn't exist in the image.
There is no idle screw on the stock carb. The only one exists on top of the TORS brick. Which would be a big flat head screw located under the seat.
I'm really confused about exactly where this screw is, I have the service manual but the picture is so hard to see.
Okay so I found the idle adjuster screw, now I went to adjust the screw and is it supposed to infinetley spin either way? I don't know if it's supposed to come out completley or even just tighten all the way down. Adjusting the screw seemed to make no difference what so ever. I'm totally lost on this, the service manual barely shows me anything. Could the screw be stripped?
Well I opened up the carb switch and spinning the screw does nothing, so I'm convinced that adjustment is broken. So either way I'm going to remove the TORS and put in an idle adjuster screw on the carb body.
Good move, the TORS brick has caused many a problem.
You will also need a carby cap and throttle cable.
Can I still leave the TORS brick and just remove the wire? Or do I havr to attach a completley new throttle cable somewhere else on the carb?
