Alright, i have yamaha blaster 200 . From the time i had it , it has brought numerous problems. First the carburetor always leaked and the blaster only started when it leaked and when i fixed the leak the blaster never started??? Somehow i figured a way around that now it works. Then my gaskets were blown but i fixed them. Now this is the biggest problem my blaster won't start at all.. I CLEANED the hell out of every thing in the carb , i changed the plugs , clean gas, clean fuel line, clean exhaust.. The only time it starts is when i spray carb cleaner in it. Then it starts but shuts off immediately letting at a burr sound... Last summer it started and drove but it would NEVER EVER IDLE .. i would ride it but it would shut off when i stopped it.. I really am left with no options to work with.. I have talked to auto mechanics to reading manuals.. nothing seems to work.. It won't start and if it did it won't idle.. Is this blaster unfixable?
Blaster unfixable ?????
- Thread starter Khalildevine
- Start date
Ok , we begin always at the beginning . You need to do a compression test and a leak down test . These 2 tests will tell you how your engine is doing internally .
Search this site for information on how to perform these vital diagnostic tests .
If you find you have compression below 110 psi that means you probably need to have the top end bored and honed and a new piston and gasket kit installed . Very easy to do the install but the machine work is best left to the experts.
If you find you have an air leak then that means you could have scored the cylinder and caused the low compression . A indication of a airleak is a blaster will not idle , or will idle very high or when you rev the throttle the revs take a long time to come back down .
Have you made any mdificatins to the intake or exhaust? If you have and you did not rejet the carb then you may be running dangerously lean and risking catastrophic engine damage . We need you to give us more information about your blaster before it can be diagnosed any further . It can be electrical , tors , parking brake sensor . A lot of things .
Search this site for information on how to perform these vital diagnostic tests .
If you find you have compression below 110 psi that means you probably need to have the top end bored and honed and a new piston and gasket kit installed . Very easy to do the install but the machine work is best left to the experts.
If you find you have an air leak then that means you could have scored the cylinder and caused the low compression . A indication of a airleak is a blaster will not idle , or will idle very high or when you rev the throttle the revs take a long time to come back down .
Have you made any mdificatins to the intake or exhaust? If you have and you did not rejet the carb then you may be running dangerously lean and risking catastrophic engine damage . We need you to give us more information about your blaster before it can be diagnosed any further . It can be electrical , tors , parking brake sensor . A lot of things .
you will have to keep it running when you do it if u can. id start by 2 turns. also make sure you are running the right ratio of oil and jetting is good.
well i have not done anything to the intake or exhaust... The air leak sounds that best answer because it revs really loud when every turned on but it doesn't take long for rev to come down
....... he was being facetious.....
Your blaster is certain fixable if you're willing to put in the time to fix it. Do the tests mentioned before (compression and leakdown) and read the stickies at the beginning of this section about jetting and tuning to get an idea of how each of the circuits works to affect how your engine runs.
could be a dumb carb issue. if hes spraying starter fluid in there and its trying to kick over sounds to me like its the carb. but spaying that in there isnt good for the motor bc ure not getting any oil in there and its kicking over dry
Check to make sure you are getting fuel to the carb, I would start at the filter and check flow there first check after the filter first if no fuel there start to work up, if you have fuel there move down to the carb inlet, make sure you have fuel there and then to the bowl on the carb itself. Good luck!!
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
im leaning towards an airleak here, but agreed, do the tests and report back to us, if no air leak is present and compression is good, then we focus attention onto the carb and reeds.
dont loose hope, its just a matter of you understanding the motor and how things interact with each other to make the motor run
dont loose hope, its just a matter of you understanding the motor and how things interact with each other to make the motor run
Similar threads
