Blaster trouble :(

[mugRBG]

Sorry just out the sky here you sead you took off the tank and what not, have you tride to set the idling @ the IDLE screw and what is your air screw sitting at

I haven't messed with the idle screw on top of the tors under the seat, it hasn't moved either, it is still all dirty and caked on with dirt.....the air screw is approx. 2 turns out.

I think I'm going to try disconnecting the TORS today....if I cut wires and it won't run at all then, or if I need to put it back, I'll just say screw it and not ride until I buy a new carb/cable.

Sorry I'm bad with the gasket names super noober, I guess the base gaket would be where the crankcase/cylinder meet, and the head would be the top of the cylinder....if so yes, it looks like some gunk/sludge built up on the fins just above the exhaust flange (where the exhaust meets the cylinder), as well as around the pipe itself.

It still fires up first kick and doesn't seem any easier to kick...quite honestly I think I may have been riding it like this for awhile without noticing it....only reason I noticed it now is because this trouble started and I saw a bit of smoke coming from where the exhaust/pipe meets the cylinder (and since I have to keep it revved for it to run, I noticed the pipe shifts a bit when I punch the throttle).

 

[The Blaster]

also check the TORS for the idling problem, i had that problem after a re-bore!
new spark plug and started but i had to give it gas, also the spark plug fouled up even though it was brand new, so i replaced the spark plug and connected the TORS and it worked fine!

 

[mugRBG]

also check the TORS for the idling problem, i had that problem after a re-bore!
new spark plug and started but i had to give it gas, also the spark plug fouled up even though it was brand new, so i replaced the spark plug and connected the TORS and it worked fine!

OK, so just thinking aloud here....

You are saying you reconnected your TORS and everything worked fine?

Well I'm not sure I'd call what I have an "idling" problem....if you let off the gas it dies - period. So even if I kept it revved up and rode it, I could be in 5th or 6th (flying), let off the gas just a split second without the clutch pulled in, and it would die out immediately and probably f*** up my whole world. X(

------

NOW. I just removed the TORS, I believe. I took the screws out of the throttle assembly on the handle bars, clipped the switch wires, removed the screw from the switch and took it out completely. I took off the front plastic and unplugged the yellow/black-white wires that go to the TORS box (just up from the other black box)....followed the wires to the TORS on top of the carb and unhooked the yellow/black-white wires that were plugged in there.

All my issues with regard to the quad dying out if I wasn't on the gas, are now moot.....it seemed to take a bit longer to kick but after 3-4 kicks it fired up and will now keep running even if I'm not hitting the throttle. BUT the thing sounds like it is going to blow up now....the rev/idle is so high with it just sitting there. I don't know if this is because I haven't been able to run it the past two-three days and it is 36-38 degrees out/hailing right now, or if it is because of what I did with the TORS. :-/

 

[mugRBG]

Just thinking out loud.....if TORS cuts off fuel flow with the carb stuck open then maybe my carb is still messed up and that is why it wouldn't stay running unless I kept on the throttle....

Also now with what seems like a really high idle, maybe approx. two turns (maybe closer to 2 1/2) for the air-fuel is too much and was being used to set the idle as opposed to the actual idle screw on the TORS....IDK what the previous owner did in that regard. Close to 2-2 1/2 seems like a bit much for just a crappy DG pipe/silencer & a K&N filter...and I don't think you'd need a chancge in pilot just for the pipe/silencer & a K&N filter.

I'll have to fiddle with it some tomorrow....but my other main concern now with the TORS removed and the high idle (unless it is just because it hasn't run for a few days/flooded/something) is that head gasket with the sludge just above the exhaust flange in the front of the cylinder....would spraying lukewarm soapy water in that general area with the Blaster running tell me whether it is sucking air (gasket needing replaced)? I don't know whether the head was ever retorqued following the rebuild.

 

[mugRBG]

Well, I'm effed. :-/ IDK what the hell is going on with this thing....I thought removing the TORS had eliminated the trouble with it dying out immediately if I wasn't on the throttle, but today I was screwing around with it for a few hours and a couple of times it fired up - idled high for a bit - and then died out for no apparent reason whatsoever.

I spent some time spraying around the head gasket and such because there was that sludge built up around where the pipe meets the cylinder, and it didn't rev any higher....but it is revving really high the way it is now. X( And without even doing anything, when I wasn't checking for any air leak, the rev would sometimes go up even higher while it was running. It isn't anything with either boot (leak) or with the reed cage....dammit.

It is also still pouring out smoke and doesn't smell too great....I called a shop to inquire about crankseal replacement and was told it was a 6-7 hour, $350 + job....looks like this biotch is going to be sitting for a long time. I could probably by another Blaster for 500 dollars, or a whole frigging crankcase/top end for what they want to replace two crankseals. Still haven't rode it since all this sh*t started up....my only saving grace may be if the cop i bought it off of has some mercy and can tell me where he bought the rebuilt lower end (so I can talk with the guy about possible replacement seals) or if he can maybe check it out himself since he had it seize on him and owned it for 7-8 years.

 

[mugRBG]

Hey guys (and girls), I was hoping for some quick help....would it matter if I left my Blaster outside in the elements (cold) without oil in the crankcase for a while? It will be chained and there is even a plug in the cement patio to run cable through or anything like that.

I don't know wtf to do with this thing....it is pissing me off so much. The rev is so frigging high ever since I disconnected the TORS, and for anyone that has read these long drawn out posts of mine, you already know my previous situation with it firing up but not running at all (unless on the throttle)/smoking a ton prior to disconnecting the TORS. I'm just about ready to say F it and pull the whole frigging motor so I can just drive that to a shop somewhere.

Anyway it will be dark here in like 2 hours so I gotta figure out if it matters whether it sits without oil in it - figuring like 30 degrees (just to be safe, I have no clue if it will get that cold) to 42-45-ish.....40 right now. I'm going to pull the cylinder and probably replace the base and head gasket when I get those two gaskets and a quality torque wrench to use.

thanks....i'll get on those reps points.

 

[colejensen6969]

I agree with the steven guy my little dirtbike would only run if you feathered the choke took the pilot jet out looked at it through a magnifiying glass completely plugged

 

[sr5bidder]

Hey guys (and girls), I was hoping for some quick help....would it matter if I left my Blaster outside in the elements (cold) without oil in the crankcase for a while? It will be chained and there is even a plug in the cement patio to run cable through or anything like that.

I don't know wtf to do with this thing....it is pissing me off so much. The rev is so frigging high ever since I disconnected the TORS, and for anyone that has read these long drawn out posts of mine, you already know my previous situation with it firing up but not running at all (unless on the throttle)/smoking a ton prior to disconnecting the TORS. I'm just about ready to say F it and pull the whole frigging motor so I can just drive that to a shop somewhere.

Anyway it will be dark here in like 2 hours so I gotta figure out if it matters whether it sits without oil in it - figuring like 30 degrees (just to be safe, I have no clue if it will get that cold) to 42-45-ish.....40 right now. I'm going to pull the cylinder and probably replace the base and head gasket when I get those two gaskets and a quality torque wrench to use.

thanks....i'll get on those reps points.

you can leave the oil in it and just chain it up

try turning your a/f screw down to 1 turn out

also you can find clear hose at home depot and hook it up to your carb drain then piont the hose up ward along side the carb and turn the drain screw out to check the level of your fuel


tighten the nuts on the exhuast collar and if your springs are stretched order new ones from rmatv...

where in Pa are you located ?? My brother is pretty good with bikes and he lives in Greensburg if your looking for a good mechanic

 

[Juggaloclownz187]

Arent you supposed to put an idle screw kit on there when you remove the TORS?

 

[Juggaloclownz187]

Also you said the idle changed while you were checking for leaks, then that means you have an air leak then wouldnt it?

 

[airwave]

i agree, pilot jet sounds plugged