My blaster will start up and run fine, then all a sudden the engine will start to race and rev. until it hits the rev limiter i will turn the key off it will continue to scream, kill switch continues to scream, i even popped of the plug wire and it still races.. somehow..... then i have to hop on it and clutch it to kill it. Then i'll start it again and it will run fine for a little bit and then all a sudden do it all over again. I checked the throttle cable, carb, reed valve, and all seem to be just fine? any ideas????
Blaster Problems - need help??
- Thread starter dczys
- Start date
sounds like it could be a tors issue(do a search on tors) if all those other things jyou listed are ok
I do have a aftermarket CPW carb on there, i did something with the TORS way back when, but when i had this issue 2 years ago i put it in a shed and just pulled it out 2day. So TORS (throttle override system) i think is what it is is the problem???? um but i think that i did something to it when i switched carbs...... any thoughts on what i did?? or should have done ???
there is a write up on it in the do it yourself section. i don't remember all the things you have to do. so if you have already taken it off that shouldn't be your issue. have you checked for airleaks? you need to look into getting a leakdown tester. go to the for sale tread they are there. if you have an airleak it can cause the problems you listed.
ok here it is.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/
but if you upgraded to a different carb you had to take the tors off right? if you did this will let you know if you did it right. what are your mods? that will help to figure it out
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/
but if you upgraded to a different carb you had to take the tors off right? if you did this will let you know if you did it right. what are your mods? that will help to figure it out
i cant recall if i completely removed the tors, but i know i did something to it that i found on another blaster forum way back when.. i have the CPW carb, aftermarket reed cage, ported and polished cylinder, shaved head, exhaust, for engine mods, but it sure does seem to me like an electrical issue, and looking at the tors DIY on here it doesnt look familiar as far as what i did before.. But everything work good as far as MODS and just one day it went all to hell..
if it isn't electrical it is probably a big air leak. you need to get yourself a leakdown tester from holeshot and see where it's leakin at.
TORS is all gone, and so i dont think thats the issue. The leakdown tester will find air leaks???? The leak will be either on the head gasket or the gasket on the bottom between the cylinder and the crank case??? everything else seems to check out. so instead of bothering with the leakdown test, i think i may go and just replace the gaskets???? thoughts?
sounds like you have debris in the head and its heating up acting like a spark plug. pull the head off and inspect for carbon or chips of metal.
yeah dont listen to the yamaha tech. look if you had an air leak it would just run lean. wont idle great and be hard to start. and will soon cook your engine. if you have a lot of carbon build up or debris in your head it gets super hot and glows and creates ignition. happens alot on two strokes that get lugged around on or too rich of mixture.
but hey what the hell do i know im only a yamaha bronze certified and yamaha 5 star certified technician.
but hey what the hell do i know im only a yamaha bronze certified and yamaha 5 star certified technician.
cool thanks mike!!!! i'll yank the head and clean it out then, and look around. recommendations on what to use when doing this, and also should i get another gasket and replace the old one? the old one isnt too old. and also what ratio would you recommend i run? i got bigger carb, aftermarket reed cage/reeds, intake, exhaust, and ported top end with a shaved head.. i wanna get this thing running smooth and then prolly sell it.. THANKS!
WOW....I love ya man....the shops always fix sh*t right, they know it all because it's in the book. I'll never post from the experience of 10yrs of racing 2 strokes ever again if you've posted....your the man!
a wire brush or wire wheel for a drill to get that head clean. use a new gasket and torque head nuts to spec and in criss cross pattern. 32:1 is perfectly fine. also if its been shaved and ported there could be a burr that gets heated to cause ignition also.
racing them and working on them is two different things. ive seen this issue before.
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