blaster not running right please help

It had a new top end put in about 3 weeks ago and has had hardly no riding on it sence then think the top end gaskets will be fine
 
It had a new top end put in about 3 weeks ago and has had hardly no riding on it sence then think the top end gaskets will be fine
 
The reason i found the leak so fast was when i put pressure in it it started leaking what i beleive is water from a little spot on the bottom were the cases meet together about a inch section
 
The reason i found the leak so fast was when i put pressure in it it started leaking what i beleive is water from a little spot on the bottom were the cases meet together about a inch section
And the guy i bought it from has the oil pump disconnected but does not have the plate to block it off is that ok and theres no oil tank
 
I do believe that 3 bond will do the same job as Yamabond to seal the cases.

You may need to lap the case halves to get a perfect mating surface.

The oil pump must be disabled or removed and blocked off from the engine as a dry running pump is bound to cause problems.

Although many gaskets can be re used it is a great idea to use new ones.

Was heat cycling an re torqueing done prior to break in on the engine?
 
This blaster is really starting to get frustrating i have resealed tge engine and sealled the read cage and messed with the carb and still cant get the damn thing right can soneobe please help it has all stock carb jets exept the main is a 320 now it runs on choke but when u take it off its boggng and like 1/4 throttle but after that its fine
 
without going back thru this whole thread........
it should at least idle and rev without the choke after warmup.
bog at 1/4 throttle says airscrew or needle adjustment

1. what needle clip setting ? should be middle clip setting, have you tried other positions ?

2. have you completely disassembled and properly cleaned the carb ?
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-clean-your-carb-pics.209/

3. set/checked the float height ?
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/

4. adjusted pilot/airscrew ? properly
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/

5. is the oil injection nipple blocked off if injection is deleted ?

6. good clean/oiled air filter ?
 
After you fix any air leaks take that 320 main jet out and put a 260 in..stock pipe does not need that big of a main just cause you removed the air box lid..also check your needle and float height.. I know everyone says the main doesnt affect idle but me n wifesblaster tinker with our carbs enough n everything trickles down..
 
And the guy i bought it from has the oil pump disconnected but does not have the plate to block it off is that ok and theres no oil tank

Just a tip, Make sure that the oil injection nipple on the carb is sealed off with a vacuum cap. If it's not, it will create an airleak causing you more problems.
 
Fixed the problem the guy i bought it from had the the needle clip all the way on top of the needle moved it to the middle and put a 250 main jet in it and its going great you all dont know how much i appreciate all the help thanks
 
Fixed the problem the guy i bought it from had the the needle clip all the way on top of the needle moved it to the middle and put a 250 main jet in it and its going great you all dont know how much i appreciate all the help thanks

nice !
i'd do a plug chop with that 250, that sounds close for your mods, but temps and elevation could require richer.
 
I have a 2001 yamaha blaster it has fmf silencer with stock pipe, no airbox cover, and a foam filter not sure of the brand i have put 300-350 size jets and still cant get it running right it will work fine on choke and the carb has been cleaned and rebuilt
#260 at least, cold weather #270 and plug chop.
 
Ok so i live in Kansas and its 11 degrees outside fired it up and rode for about 10 mins and then i stopped and it revved up and would not die had to choke it to kill it now when i fire it up it idles down slow again