I bought a blaster and the headlight wasn't working. I checked the bulb cause it's was the easiest thing to do and noticed the previous owner had a 6volt bulb that was blown in the headlight. I figured easy fix and replaced the bulb with a 12v 45w/45w. New bulb is very dim so I checked voltage at the bulb socket and at the voltage regulator and am getting only 5.6 volts at both places. Would the voltage regulator be bad or would it be something in the stator like the lighting coil?
Blaster Headlight Voltage
- Thread starter heyketz
- Start date
is it dim while ur idling or while the engines revved up? the magneto won't produce full voltage until over ~4000rpms? so the headlight willbe quite dim at idle
Does anybody know how to throw on hid on the blaster..I know im going to need a battery cause you need a steady current.I also know your going to need a Universal Voltage Regulator/Rectifier [http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...rts&webCatId=24&keyword=h4&prodFamilyId=27240
Kind of like this one.Since Im not good with electrical stuff can someone tell me if im on the right track. Does anybody know if the blaster is a one, dual or three phase stator.I know its not three I'm guess one.Oh and does anybody know if the blaster has a AC or DC stator.My bike is in storage. Thanks. ...I think it is ac.
Kind of like this one.Since Im not good with electrical stuff can someone tell me if im on the right track. Does anybody know if the blaster is a one, dual or three phase stator.I know its not three I'm guess one.Oh and does anybody know if the blaster has a AC or DC stator.My bike is in storage. Thanks. ...I think it is ac.
I run DC volts on my KTM bike, which was an AC only system.
I just put a rectifier after the stock voltage regulator.
I'd recommend a fullwave rectifier for maximum watts.
Here is a wiring diagram for that bike. You won't need to be so complicated.
Just note where the Voltage Regulator and the full wave rectifier are.
I just put a rectifier after the stock voltage regulator.
I'd recommend a fullwave rectifier for maximum watts.
Here is a wiring diagram for that bike. You won't need to be so complicated.
Just note where the Voltage Regulator and the full wave rectifier are.
yea but the blaster light gets brighter when you give it gas ,its not a ktm(those are some nice bikes).I need to find a way to run HIDs off a battery.Which is easy. How do I recharge the battery as I am riding.The only thing I can think of is a Regulator/Rectifier.I know thats how it is on street bikes.But I know I'm still missing something between the Regulator/Rectifier and the battery i think.Do you know if the Regulator/Rectifier gets connect straight to the battery.besides maybe a fuse.
The charging system is the same as the KTM and many small bikes and engines.
It has a fixed stator coil under the flywheel that has magnetized areas on the flywheel swinging by it.
As the magnet swings by the core of the stator coils, it creates a pulse of voltage, pushing current,
first in one direction, then in the other as the opposite pole of the magnet sweeps by. As the RPM increases, so does the voltage.
Too much voltage would burn out the bulbs. To limit it, there is a voltage limiter (regulator) is put across the wires of the stator coil.
When the voltage (PRESSURE of electricity) exceeds 12v (usually 13.5 or so actually) the voltage regulator conducts
current (FLOW of electricity) to keep the voltage down.
Understand that if nothing is using current, almost all the current made at the stator will flow through the voltage regulator,
and eventually burn it out because it becomes a 40w heater.
For this reason the switch for your headlamp is usually BEFORE the voltage regulator.
Also this is the reason a burnt headlight bulb often destroys the regulator if it isn't replaced within a few hours.
One wire is often (but not always) grounded to the frame of the machine.
The voltage regulator would be shorted from the live wire to the frame in this case, and would only have
one wire to it (the bolt to the frame being the other wire). A 2 wire voltage regulator is used on an ungrounded AC system.
On the Blaster, like some of my KTMs, the stator is only designed to put out 40 watts of power.
That is why a 55w headlamp bulb is not as bright as a 35w in these bikes, and why it dims at idle,
the 40w is only up at running speed, about 2500rpm or so. If you have a 55w bulb in your Blaster,
the stator cannot produce enough current to supply it, so the voltage will drop.
These are a "constant loss" system, where the total output of the stator is always used.
This is part of the reason it is only a 40w system, to limit the drag on the engine.
To get a brighter headlamp, your choices are limited. You could:
1) get a brighter 35w bulb. Halogen and xenon and HID are brighter than incandescent.
2) get a higher output stator. Buy or rewire for 60w or more.
3) get a better reflector. Some headlight units throw light better than others.
4) get rid of other losses, such as 4w tail light, with a 0.5 LED tail lamp.
All bulbs and reflectors are not equal. The simplest and cheapest answer is to find a 35w bulb and housing
that really throw the light in a useful pattern. Walmart "driving lights" really suck and most of them are 55w.
Quality 35w halogen bulbs cost $$ but throw more light than the cheap ones.
To get DC and charge a battery, you have to add a rectifier. That is the little "baseball diamond" shaped thing
in the middle right of that drawing above. That is a "full wave rectifier" which is the most efficient.
A half wave rectifier will reduce you DC output to about 18w. Not enough for any sort of a useful headlamp,
so you would have to float the ground of either the AC or DC side of the circuit.
Many combined Vreg/rec units for bikes only put out a limited DC supply like this because the headlamp is still run on AC.
They won't work for supplying an HID headlamp.
Here is a Blaster wiring diagram, hope this is some help.
It has a fixed stator coil under the flywheel that has magnetized areas on the flywheel swinging by it.
As the magnet swings by the core of the stator coils, it creates a pulse of voltage, pushing current,
first in one direction, then in the other as the opposite pole of the magnet sweeps by. As the RPM increases, so does the voltage.
Too much voltage would burn out the bulbs. To limit it, there is a voltage limiter (regulator) is put across the wires of the stator coil.
When the voltage (PRESSURE of electricity) exceeds 12v (usually 13.5 or so actually) the voltage regulator conducts
current (FLOW of electricity) to keep the voltage down.
Understand that if nothing is using current, almost all the current made at the stator will flow through the voltage regulator,
and eventually burn it out because it becomes a 40w heater.
For this reason the switch for your headlamp is usually BEFORE the voltage regulator.
Also this is the reason a burnt headlight bulb often destroys the regulator if it isn't replaced within a few hours.
One wire is often (but not always) grounded to the frame of the machine.
The voltage regulator would be shorted from the live wire to the frame in this case, and would only have
one wire to it (the bolt to the frame being the other wire). A 2 wire voltage regulator is used on an ungrounded AC system.
On the Blaster, like some of my KTMs, the stator is only designed to put out 40 watts of power.
That is why a 55w headlamp bulb is not as bright as a 35w in these bikes, and why it dims at idle,
the 40w is only up at running speed, about 2500rpm or so. If you have a 55w bulb in your Blaster,
the stator cannot produce enough current to supply it, so the voltage will drop.
These are a "constant loss" system, where the total output of the stator is always used.
This is part of the reason it is only a 40w system, to limit the drag on the engine.
To get a brighter headlamp, your choices are limited. You could:
1) get a brighter 35w bulb. Halogen and xenon and HID are brighter than incandescent.
2) get a higher output stator. Buy or rewire for 60w or more.
3) get a better reflector. Some headlight units throw light better than others.
4) get rid of other losses, such as 4w tail light, with a 0.5 LED tail lamp.
All bulbs and reflectors are not equal. The simplest and cheapest answer is to find a 35w bulb and housing
that really throw the light in a useful pattern. Walmart "driving lights" really suck and most of them are 55w.
Quality 35w halogen bulbs cost $$ but throw more light than the cheap ones.
To get DC and charge a battery, you have to add a rectifier. That is the little "baseball diamond" shaped thing
in the middle right of that drawing above. That is a "full wave rectifier" which is the most efficient.
A half wave rectifier will reduce you DC output to about 18w. Not enough for any sort of a useful headlamp,
so you would have to float the ground of either the AC or DC side of the circuit.
Many combined Vreg/rec units for bikes only put out a limited DC supply like this because the headlamp is still run on AC.
They won't work for supplying an HID headlamp.
Here is a Blaster wiring diagram, hope this is some help.
I guess I'm on the right track then.i already have a ricks high output stator which puts out 75 watts.I"m guessing this still wont work by its self for an hid. I almost sure the blaster is already has AC voltage.So I think i should get a better Voltage Regulator to get more of the power from that stator.Which is pretty much what your saying. If I add a battery should I take the + wires that go to the headlight switch and bring those to the battery.Or should I go from the Regulator to the battery....I just don't know where I'm going wrong....Is there anyway you can take that wiring diagram into photo shop or paint and show how to add one of those Regulator/Rectifier (ac to dc) and where to add the battery..I'm I going to need a floating ground?What ever that means..And I have five wires coming from my stator not four like in the diagram.One is a extra ground that gets bolted to the frame.Could this be a floating ground . I'm going to call up Rick's to find out if it is if not how to add one ,then I'm going to call up trail tech to find which wires I need to connect to their Regulator/Rectifier then out from there to the battery....Thanks Best I'm going to send you a friend request..
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Here it is.
This diagram has the AC grounded (as the stock bike comes) with the DC ground "floating" separate from the frame.
This is a full wave rectifier. The ground may indeed come out of the Ricks Stator (I don't know),
so you could "float" the AC separate from the frame (by connecting it direct to the rectifier and not to frame)
and ground the negative wire to the lights, battery, and rectifier.
In that case the regulator would have to be set across the two AC wires to limit the voltage on them.
I looked it up in the manual, it is indeed a 12v system (pg 7-19 "lighting voltage = 13.5v - 14.1v at 5000 rpm.)
Check it with a meter. If you have low voltage, try a different regulator.
75w should light a 55w bulb up pretty bright, especially if you get 14v.
The stock stator is single phase AC. I don't know what the Ricks one is.
I don't know what the extra wire is for on the Ricks stator without a drawing.
There is no such thing as dual phase, just single or 3 phase.
There are some high efficiency 3 phase stators made for bikes that have a 6 diode rectifier.
Your car has a 3 phase alternator by-the-way...
Thanks again...I found out I had a Ricky stator but I burnt one of the coils by welding on the bike so I got the Rick's Hot Shot replacement coils... The fifth wire was for the new blasters but was still need for my stator to work.This was not a floating ground for the lights it was for the power coil.I still need to add a ground to the lighing coil.I did find a better Single Phase Rectifier/Regulator $53.00 at Ricky Ricky Stator you can see how easy this one is with only four wires.I didn't find out which two I need to use, I guess one is the floating ground and the other I'll find out later..Then you have a black and red wire that goes to the battery thats the easy part..I hope I can run a hid off this.I 'll try to post some pics if it works.If anybody else does this ,post some pics...
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