ok. I adjusted the float height to 20mm. it was at about 23mm before. the main jet is a 230. and I checked the reeds a few days ago and I flipped them to be flush. and it still did the same thing. I thought it worked for a little bit but then same thing. the motor is stock other than someone lightly ported it. and I mean lightly. like I said fmf fatty and fmf silencer. airbox lid on. I still have the carb of. anything else I should look for? and I just cleaned it twice. took it all apart and sprayed with carb cleaner. didn't help.
#230 is no way big enough, the FMF Fatty calls for a #260, Air filter one size more and 32:1 one more again.
Start with a #290 main and plug chop.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.