Blaster bogs in slow wheelie plz help !!!
- Thread starter 2smokers
- Start date
Have you checked your carbs float level? What gearing and mods do you have?
I have not checked the carbs float level how can I do that and it geared stock and there are no engine mods stock bore
Yeh probably runs out of gas. at a low speed, or low rpm, there is not enough air going through the carb to pull fuel from the nozzle, which could cause you to have symptoms listed. maybe try going faster.
If it is is pretty much stock, then your float level should be good. I am going to guess it idles well and pulls well otherwise?
Might not hurt to read up on 2 stroke carb tuning and make sure your air screw is properly set. It plays a big role in throttle response when coming from 1/4 throttle or less.
There is a ton of info and learning that you can find by searching here on the forum.
I would definitely getting the Blaster service manual either in print at your Yamaha shop or you can find a link to the pdf n here.
And Herp has a point, even stock the blaster has more than enough power to stand up in second.
Use your low pressure guage to drop the rear tire pressure down a little closer to minimum, and if your light drop the spring preload ( the 2 nuts at the bottom oF the rear shock. Move them down to decrease preload).
You can also play with the preload adjustment on the bottom of the front shocks, a tighter setting may bring the front up an inch or so but to high and you won't get aNY extra lift from the front to help get it up.
It will take a little extra guts but keep both feet on the pegs (in case you need the rear brake) and use that clutch to stand it up in second should be easier to control the balance, you may still run out of steam before you get it balanced where you can keep it up.
Often it helps to use a hump or a little lip like coming into the yard from a gravel driveway. That way you can hit it a little faster and get it up easier. If you can get it up in third should be able to ride wheelies pretty easy. A slight uphill grade will help you to keep it up without going too fast.
When I was a little younger I was able to use the terrain to get up a try 300 4 x4 and could ride wheelies as long as I wanted.
Practice, practice, practice and it will come.
Also, consider a high flow air filter, removing the air box lid, and getting a low end pipe, any or all of these will let more air in the engine, so you must rejet your carb to match.
Good luck and don't be afraid to set it on the grab bar
Deebee
Might not hurt to read up on 2 stroke carb tuning and make sure your air screw is properly set. It plays a big role in throttle response when coming from 1/4 throttle or less.
There is a ton of info and learning that you can find by searching here on the forum.
I would definitely getting the Blaster service manual either in print at your Yamaha shop or you can find a link to the pdf n here.
And Herp has a point, even stock the blaster has more than enough power to stand up in second.
Use your low pressure guage to drop the rear tire pressure down a little closer to minimum, and if your light drop the spring preload ( the 2 nuts at the bottom oF the rear shock. Move them down to decrease preload).
You can also play with the preload adjustment on the bottom of the front shocks, a tighter setting may bring the front up an inch or so but to high and you won't get aNY extra lift from the front to help get it up.
It will take a little extra guts but keep both feet on the pegs (in case you need the rear brake) and use that clutch to stand it up in second should be easier to control the balance, you may still run out of steam before you get it balanced where you can keep it up.
Often it helps to use a hump or a little lip like coming into the yard from a gravel driveway. That way you can hit it a little faster and get it up easier. If you can get it up in third should be able to ride wheelies pretty easy. A slight uphill grade will help you to keep it up without going too fast.
When I was a little younger I was able to use the terrain to get up a try 300 4 x4 and could ride wheelies as long as I wanted.
Practice, practice, practice and it will come.
Also, consider a high flow air filter, removing the air box lid, and getting a low end pipe, any or all of these will let more air in the engine, so you must rejet your carb to match.
Good luck and don't be afraid to set it on the grab bar
Deebee
I can Put it on the grab bar and all that I forgot to tell your it has a full toomey race exhaust and a k&n high flow air filter. The answer I'm looking for is why it bogs say when I'm at balance point all the way to 12 o clock and what I can do to fix it
Could be alot of things once you get up and are looking for that balance point, you usually aren't usuing that much throttle. That and a toomey pipe is more of a high end pipe, lots of power on top with a sacrifice of low end power.
Also when you stand a bike up, the fuel In your carb bowl is sloshed to the back, if your float bowl is not set right it might starve for fuel, particularly if your jetted a little lean. Things get more complicated when you get up past a certain point fuel will start to run out of the over flows.
It could be alot of things, possibly post a video of a few practice passes so we can see and hear what is going on.
I would get the service manual, it will detail how to set your float height, as well as tons of info and specs.
Also a leak down test is a good idea, even a small amount of air leaking can cause a lean condition particularly at partial throttle lower rpms causing your bike to bog
Search 2 stroke carb tuning here in the forums and make sure your low speed circuit, and jet needle are set correctly.
Dual stage reeds can really clean up the low end, dual stage Boyesen reeds are inexpensive, and a full vr4 reed Valve set is said to help across all rpm. Either can be DIY installed with the help of your service manual.
You can also advance your spark timing 2 to 5 degrees and gain a good bit of bottom to mid power, if you go too far you will notice a small loss on top end. You can do this with a Dremel and by following a thread in the DIY section. Alternatively you can buy an adjustable timing plate.
Maybe others here can think of more or different things I would first concentrate on making sure you are leak free, and your carb (float, idle screw, needle, Main jet) is set properly. Then look into adding a little power on the bottom/ middle of the rpm range.
Don't forget to post a vid. It will really help us to pinpoint any issues. All the adjustments and changes I mentioned can be done with either the service manual or a thread here on BF mostly from the DIY section.
The alternative is to build a motor with so much brute power that it can hold the wheels up at any angle in almost any gear. This takes about double your stock horsepower from what I have heard.
Best of luck
DeeBee
Also when you stand a bike up, the fuel In your carb bowl is sloshed to the back, if your float bowl is not set right it might starve for fuel, particularly if your jetted a little lean. Things get more complicated when you get up past a certain point fuel will start to run out of the over flows.
It could be alot of things, possibly post a video of a few practice passes so we can see and hear what is going on.
I would get the service manual, it will detail how to set your float height, as well as tons of info and specs.
Also a leak down test is a good idea, even a small amount of air leaking can cause a lean condition particularly at partial throttle lower rpms causing your bike to bog
Search 2 stroke carb tuning here in the forums and make sure your low speed circuit, and jet needle are set correctly.
Dual stage reeds can really clean up the low end, dual stage Boyesen reeds are inexpensive, and a full vr4 reed Valve set is said to help across all rpm. Either can be DIY installed with the help of your service manual.
You can also advance your spark timing 2 to 5 degrees and gain a good bit of bottom to mid power, if you go too far you will notice a small loss on top end. You can do this with a Dremel and by following a thread in the DIY section. Alternatively you can buy an adjustable timing plate.
Maybe others here can think of more or different things I would first concentrate on making sure you are leak free, and your carb (float, idle screw, needle, Main jet) is set properly. Then look into adding a little power on the bottom/ middle of the rpm range.
Don't forget to post a vid. It will really help us to pinpoint any issues. All the adjustments and changes I mentioned can be done with either the service manual or a thread here on BF mostly from the DIY section.
The alternative is to build a motor with so much brute power that it can hold the wheels up at any angle in almost any gear. This takes about double your stock horsepower from what I have heard.
Best of luck
DeeBee
Here are some free downloadable manuals.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/
