Big issue with bogging

fast02blaster

New Member
Nov 3, 2012
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newark delaware
Ok so I just put on the full pro circuit exhaust bored .30 over and lid is off and I premix 32:1 I put a 300 main jet in it and now it is running like complete trash bogging down so bad won't go any were what is the issue almost like its starving fuel
 
Is fuel leaking out the overflow tube on the carb? Sounds like the float may be hung and causing the engine to flood out. With the full PC exhaust and no lid, the 300 main is about right. DO NOT go down sizes in jets....the 300 will be very close once you get the carb fixed. I'd pull the bowl again and have a look.
 
BTW, foat height is 22mm when adjusted properly. It doesn't hurt to check.

If you accidentally knocked the little plastic "splash shield" out of place when assembling the carb, it can jam the float and hold the needle open, causing the engine to flood...
 
I just cleaned carb it's not leaking any gas had that issue last time but could float be too low now ? We're it ain't getting fuel really like ill be wot and its like just breaking up and no power if the header pipe has a leak could that be in the springs that hold header to flange ain't working to well got a bad exhaust leak
 
I just cleaned carb it's not leaking any gas had that issue last time but could float be too low now ? We're it ain't getting fuel really like ill be wot and its like just breaking up and no power if the header pipe has a leak could that be in the springs that hold header to flange ain't working to well got a bad exhaust leak

An exhaust leak will upset your jetting and can make the engine run lean. I'd fix it ASAP, either with new springs and/or some hi-temp RTV sealant and a new donut gasket.

Float height needs to be 22mm from carb body to the bottom of the float, with the needle just touching the float. If the float height is wrong, your engine can starve for fuel.

Also, check the fuel petcock. It must squirt a steady stream of fuel. If it just drips or spurts, you have a clog there. Same with the fuel line....it can swell up internally and block fuel flow to the carb.
 
I had no problem with it up till today when I finished the exhaust there isn't a donut in this exhaust where it meets the head it's a flange that slides over the header and the inly thing holding it on there is the springs would it be fine to weld the flange solid to the pipe to eliminate the leak or does it have to be free
 
It's best to leave it free. If you weld it, you might not be able to get it on, or off if welded in place. As suggested, new springs and rvt on slip joint, allowing it to "cure" at least overnight, 24hrs if it's real cold.
 
RVT is silicon, not a glue. All auto parts, should use high heat type, but any kind should work. Mahe sure flange and inside of pipe is oil free so rvt will stick. As mentioned, it takes a good while to cure.

Also, do you still have TORS system still? If so at least unhook the box.
 
My tors system is unhooked and I'm doing a swinger extension this weekend so bike will be down perfect time to seal exhaust cool ill get some rvt should I put it around the top of the flange were the header meets it or like inside of the flange were it slips in I've used rvt before just wana do it right so I can ride ASAP
 
There is a metal/composite donut gasket actually sets into exhaust port kinda flush with surface for flange

^^This donut gasket seals the pipe's flange to the head. The springs just hold the pipe to the flange, often with no gasket. Some aftermarket pipes just use a slip-fit joint (like Pro Circuit and FMF) with no sealant, O ring, or gasket from the factory. Mainly to save on mfg costs I think. The highest-quality pipes, such as Toomey, have an O ring'd flange which seals more tightly between pipe and flange.

This is just my opinion, but I say go ahead and weld the pipe to the flange if you want to 100% stop the leak. My Trinity pipe came right out of the box with a ridgid flange, and you can still install and remove the pipe from the bike with the flange attached. Its a little harder to do, but still very possible.

Install your whole exhaust in place, silencer and top pipe mount included, align it to your satisfaction, tack it in a couple places, and then remove the pipe and sew it up all the way around.
 
I used some ultra copper the yamaha dealer tech said it will work great if it messes up then ill weld it thanks for all the info ill keep updated how it works