barely starts

aaronsoccer4

New Member
May 4, 2011
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Agawam Ma
After a long week so far with my blasty my friend broke a reed cage bolt off in the head I had to take the motor out and drill it and a broken reed blah blah blah... Now when I go to start it, it runs for 3 seconds backfires and dies my airscrew does not help at all. Im about ready to push it off cliff, what is wrong with it
 
yeah the new reeds are inand its not the plug the plug is brand new. I can only get it to start if I turn the airscrew out more than three and a half times I cannot get it to idleit just dies. it runs best 5 and a half turns out but it is still to rich it bogs when you get on it and thats not even under a load. so I put my airbox lid on and it made it even worse. so my questions are

1. isnt 5 1/2 turns out unheard of
2. its obviously to rich at idle do I need to change my stock pilot jet to one smaller
3. will adjusting the needle help?
 
no but a little better still no idle I was in the middle of a rejet when it happened It had some work done to it now im rejetting for the work that was done but murphys law has been in full effect this is like day 6 I just want it to run so bad
 
Get it to idle first. If youre sure you dont have anything else wrong, and the reedcage is good, and you dont have any airleaks, and the engine is mechanically sound, then proceed to jet.

Get the pilot dialed. 1.5-2 turns out when warm to idle. You SHOULD have to choke it if the engine is cold to get it to start. If you have to turn it all the way in to get it to idle, youre too lean and need to go up a pilot size. If you have to turn it all the way out to get it to idle, youre too rich and need to go down a pilot size.

Get it idling nicely and then set the main. Put in a main that bogs when you go WOT, (keep going up in main till it does this), then start pulling back size at a time until you can go WOT without it bogging. Now youre in plug chop territory. Do some WOT plug chops and make sure your main is where you want it.

Once youve set the main, then you figure out driveability. Thats done with the needle. When you rev it, the engine sould pick up crisply and not rev too high too fast, just a nice steady wind up and a good healthy exhaust note. If it revs up too fast, youre lean and your needle needs to go down on the clip (which pulls the needle farther away from the jet so more fuel flows through the main on transition), if it picks up slowly and it bogs, go up on the clip which will put your needle farther down into the main restricting the flow of fuel to lean it out so youre not too rich on transition.

Hope this helps.
 
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there is no viable reason any stock carb should need to change pilot jets, none
you have a problem somewhere you are over lookin for it to be rich at idle, sumthins clogged, or you didnt put the carb back together correctly, as it got worse as you were jetting

is that brass washer under the main jet ????
what is the float setting ???? < 20-21.5 mm
is the float valve working ???
wheres the needle clip ???
is the idle screw adjusted enuf to hold the slide open a little for idle ???
 
is that brass washer under the main jet ???? Yes
what is the float setting ???? < 20-21.5 mm im not sure ill check
is the float valve working ??? Yes the float bowl fills up
wheres the needle clip ??? The third spot stock position
is the idle screw adjusted enuf to hold the slide open a little for idle ??? Im not sure, is the idle screw the screw newt to the air screw
 
tors was removed when I got it.

mild port and polish
pro circuit full pipe
new reeds, stock but they are different than the ones that were in there they look like they flow better.
uni air filter with lid removed
93 octane with amsoil dominator 32/1
needle clip in stock position
270 main for now until I get the idle down
 
Stock carb?
I swear there was a discussion on Amsoil being crap to run in these machines. I believe you are suppose to run amsoil at 50 or 100:1. it says that on the bottle, so that may be part of the problem, especially if the plug is getting oil soaked.

You done an airleak test right? 7psi held for 5mins?
You have disassembled the carb and cleaned all orfices with car cleaner then blew dry with compressed air , if that's available?
 
I have run AmsOil Dominator in mine for 3 years at 32:1 and NEVER had any issues. there has to be something missing... im gonna say start with idle screw.. not the IDLE AIR screw but the screw that pushes the slide open a lil ...... if you still can't get it take out the pilot jet and find out what number u have... if it BOGS at from 1/2 Throttle to WOT i would say your Reeds aren't closing.. We had that issue this weekend our reed screws loosened up and it bogged real bad over WOT and idled a lil rough. check those and then get back to me.. we will get it figured out somehow!
 
amsoil is not the problem. take your reeds out and check them. make sure theyre not cracked, or warped. also, dont touch your jetting. it sounds like thats about where you want to be on jetting. 230 is stock, so with your mods then that should be good. but a plug chop will tell you for sure.