Banshee Lower Rod Bearing Shot....

[jlsparky7]

Lower connecting rod bearing is definitely shot so the entire engine is getting rebuilt.... On a pretty tight budget... So heres the deal.

Im going to be doing a complete bottom end rebuild series and posting it to youtube. (Let me know about any tips/tricks you would like me to include!) ‪jlsparky7's Channel‬‏ - YouTube

So what are my options and what is required for it to run again? Obviously I have to send the crank out if I dont get a new one and have it trued and welded. Ideas? input?

What would be required for a stroker? Spacers? Rejetting? Ect....

 

[CHutzell]

i cant see really what is piled up on top that piston the picture is to dark on my laptop,you can almost buy a brand new crank for the cost of a totally rebuilt crank and alot of guys will take your old crank and give you credit for it as a core.the +4mm stroker goes right in the bottom end without any modification to the cases but you will either have to run a base plate(cheaper) of modify your cylinder head for the added stroke.
if this is a budget build i would either rebuild or buy a new stock crank and check the pto side cylinder for damage,you may be able to hone and get a new piston but from what i can see it prob needs bored.then you have to get gaskets,misc.hardware and atleast main seals and your ready to go if everything else is in good shape

 

[joshrabbitt14]

Get a stroker!!! I:I

 

[jlsparky7]

I had planned on sending the head out for a 30 shave anyways so I might as well just have them prep it for a stroker while im at it. The Stroker cranks are only 50 bucks or so more then a regular hotrods crank. So no other mods are needed or than the base plate or the modded head for a stroker? No rejet? (I had planned on shaving the head and doing a timing advance while its all apart). Stock carbs are fine?

 

[Prime]

Yes, you should be fine, you only need to change your jetting when riding in a large difference in temperature or installing an aftermarket exhaust. You could go with a Keihin 30mm PJ or CVK, but you don't really need it, unless you are boring you're jug way over stock bore.

 

[CHutzell]

I had planned on sending the head out for a 30 shave anyways so I might as well just have them prep it for a stroker while im at it. The Stroker cranks are only 50 bucks or so more then a regular hotrods crank. So no other mods are needed or than the base plate or the modded head for a stroker? No rejet? (I had planned on shaving the head and doing a timing advance while its all apart). Stock carbs are fine?

you will have to get the 110mm rod crank to use banshee pistons with the 4mil,if you go with the longrod crank you'll need 795 series pistons.The stroker will drop right in the bottom end the only additional cost would be either the spacer or the cylinder head modded.The stock carbs would be fine,jetting would have to be checked as usual.the only thing with the stroker crank the timing edge of the piston at BDC will be lower then your ports,it will run just fine like that just something to keep in mind,imo your better off getting a new stock crank and just cutting the head like you said unless you plan on dumping some $$$ into it.

 

[Larry's Shee]

If you don't need to bore, least $$ would be exact replacement. Stroker would only be little more, most I have seen are long rod, not saying 110 don't exist. My son has 4mil long rod, unported, 2mil head "spacer", FMF gold pipes. Isn't the "hottest" set-up for a 'shee, but has killer low end.

 

[jlsparky7]

you will have to get the 110mm rod crank to use banshee pistons with the 4mil,if you go with the longrod crank you'll need 795 series pistons.The stroker will drop right in the bottom end the only additional cost would be either the spacer or the cylinder head modded.The stock carbs would be fine,jetting would have to be checked as usual.the only thing with the stroker crank the timing edge of the piston at BDC will be lower then your ports,it will run just fine like that just something to keep in mind,imo your better off getting a new stock crank and just cutting the head like you said unless you plan on dumping some $$$ into it.

I guess I should have explained this part earlier. I recently went to a MX track and loved it. I already have a ton of suspension work on the banshee so I really dont wanna dump it for a 450 so im trying to get a little more low end out of it. Would this setup (the stroker) give me a little more low end power? I would eventually do a little more mild engine work (port job, reeds, ect). Why use a stock crank over a stroker? Not trying to come off bi**hy at all just wondering.

If you don't need to bore, least $$ would be exact replacement. Stroker would only be little more, most I have seen are long rod, not saying 110 don't exist. My son has 4mil long rod, unported, 2mil head "spacer", FMF gold pipes. Isn't the "hottest" set-up for a 'shee, but has killer low end.

Thanks for the reply. Low end is exactly what im looking for so sounds like this might be the setup for me. What are the pros/cons on your sons shee running that setup?

 

[jlsparky7]

Heres a vid of the rod taking a dump....

‪jlsparky7's Channel‬‏ - YouTube

 

[sicivicdude]

@ the video

Just that extra little rev coming onto the straight away and BUHHHH BUUHHHHHH BUHHHHHHHHH. That was all she wrote.

 

[jlsparky7]

lol, yup. Story of my life....

 

[CHutzell]

I guess I should have explained this part earlier. I recently went to a MX track and loved it. I already have a ton of suspension work on the banshee so I really dont wanna dump it for a 450 so im trying to get a little more low end out of it. Would this setup (the stroker) give me a little more low end power? I would eventually do a little more mild engine work (port job, reeds, ect). Why use a stock crank over a stroker? Not trying to come off bi**hy at all just wondering.



The stock crank is cheaper,you can get one for about 300 bux,I think the +4s are going for around 400 now???plus the cost of machining the head for the +4,if this is a budget build I would just be fixing what it needs to get it back up and running,your not going to gain much with the +4 crank unless you have the cyls and head setup to run it,you can get very good low end power out of a stock bore/crank setup if done right but its up to you what you wanna do.I dont think by throwing a +4 crank is going to give you anymore bottom end then you had before

 

[Larry's Shee]

I guess I should have explained this part earlier. I recently went to a MX track and loved it. I already have a ton of suspension work on the banshee so I really dont wanna dump it for a 450 so im trying to get a little more low end out of it. Would this setup (the stroker) give me a little more low end power? I would eventually do a little more mild engine work (port job, reeds, ect). Why use a stock crank over a stroker? Not trying to come off bi**hy at all just wondering.



Thanks for the reply. Low end is exactly what im looking for so sounds like this might be the setup for me. What are the pros/cons on your sons shee running that setup?

We ride up by Mio, if you've ever been there you know type of trails. Stock carbs 310/27.5 jets, K&N, no lid. With head spacer as opposed to cyl spacer port timing is delayed (late) compared to even stock, kinda like an old 70s enduro compared to mx. Only drawback I could see is that it might not be as fast as some other Banshees. Also doesn't seem to have a lotta over-rev, which isn't neccessarily a bad thing. He dragged a Z400 and blew it away. Don't know if it had any mods. He hasn't raced any 450s that I know of. I was going to do a little porting when I had it torn apart last year, but he didn't want to :-/. Heck, you're within an hour drive, if you wanted to take it for a little rip, I'll ask my son. I:I
With 13/40 gearing it will pull up in 4th just punching it from a slow roll.

 

[Prime]

I just did this to my blaster the other day. Not nearly as bad though...

 

[jlsparky7]

The stock crank is cheaper,you can get one for about 300 bux,I think the +4s are going for around 400 now???plus the cost of machining the head for the +4,if this is a budget build I would just be fixing what it needs to get it back up and running,your not going to gain much with the +4 crank unless you have the cyls and head setup to run it,you can get very good low end power out of a stock bore/crank setup if done right but its up to you what you wanna do.I dont think by throwing a +4 crank is going to give you anymore bottom end then you had before[/QUOTE]

Well were lookin at 150-175 labor plus parts to rebuild. Parts would be two rods and the lower bearings. Rods are about 90 each and bearings are 20ish each? so that puts me at 300 right there... What if something else on the crankshaft is damaged or I need new crankshaft bearings? which i should prolly replace anyways. Then itll run as much as a new one it seems to me.... Id like to get something a little upgraded from stock since these stock bearings only lasted for a little over one topend....

We ride up by Mio, if you've ever been there you know type of trails. Stock carbs 310/27.5 jets, K&N, no lid. With head spacer as opposed to cyl spacer port timing is delayed (late) compared to even stock, kinda like an old 70s enduro compared to mx. Only drawback I could see is that it might not be as fast as some other Banshees. Also doesn't seem to have a lotta over-rev, which isn't neccessarily a bad thing. He dragged a Z400 and blew it away. Don't know if it had any mods. He hasn't raced any 450s that I know of. I was going to do a little porting when I had it torn apart last year, but he didn't want to :-/. Heck, you're within an hour drive, if you wanted to take it for a little rip, I'll ask my son. I:I
With 13/40 gearing it will pull up in 4th just punching it from a slow roll.

Yea ive been near Mio quite a few times. Ill be sure to msg you if im headed that way. I actually hate over rev. I short shift quite a bit to avoid it. Power falls on its face, more damage to the motor, ect.... Im running 13/41 gearing I believe and would love it if I could get a little more bottom end out of it without regearing.

again........ ken can rebuild and true your crank for cheaper than a new one

$120 for a rebuilt and trued blaster crank ...................

http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/Crankshaft%20Rebuilds.html

heres $180 wiseco, overseas built crank, right out of the box..............

‪Wiseco Crankshaft Made in Taiwan‬‏ - YouTube

Really appreciate this vid. Definitely makes me want to steer clear of wiseco products. Is vitos any better? Or is there another company that makes a shee crankshaft?

 

[Larry's Shee]

Unless a crank can be rebuilt with ALL new brgs, rods, new pin brgs for less than all new, why bother? The thing is that you have to pay for dissassembly also. Been a lot of talk on BHQ about cranks lately, lot of inferior products comeing thru lately.

On a side note M&M has 4mil, all brgs, $400 (site sponser)

 

[jlsparky7]

vito's assembles and trues their own cranks ???? i doubt it

Im with you there....

Unless a crank can be rebuilt with ALL new brgs, rods, new pin brgs for less than all new, why bother? The thing is that you have to pay for dissassembly also. Been a lot of talk on BHQ about cranks lately, lot of inferior products comeing thru lately.

On a side note M&M has 4mil, all brgs, $400 (site sponser)

Thats more like it... whats with having to use the different series pistons? How are they different?

 

[Zwiser]

dont get your stock crank rebuilt its not worth it, for the $250-$300 it costs

just buy a 4 mil and get it trued and welded, buy TZ or max load bearings (F.A.S.T has them) stock bearings cant support the added stress from the stroker.

i think you have to get wiseco 795 pistons and get the domes cut.

do you have a pancake bearing?, steel idler gear bushing? be a good thing to do while your at it.

 

[jlsparky7]

dont get your stock crank rebuilt its not worth it, for the $250-$300 it costs

just buy a 4 mil and get it trued and welded, buy TZ or max load bearings (F.A.S.T has them) stock bearings cant support the added stress from the stroker.

i think you have to get wiseco 795 pistons and get the domes cut.

do you have a pancake bearing?, steel idler gear bushing? be a good thing to do while your at it.

Perfect. Exactly what I am thinking. Definitely considering getting all the work done through FAST. So heres what I would need, let me know if anything should be added?

4mm stroker crank
115mm rods?
2x 795 series .030 pistons
Domes cut for stroker (shaved head as well?)
Both cylinders bored and honed
TX or max load crank bearings
Pancake bearing (ill do research on this one, not sure where it goes)
Steel idler gear bushing
Ive heard shift star mod, as well as shift shaft mod to make for easier shifting?

 

[Zwiser]

Perfect. Exactly what I am thinking. Definitely considering getting all the work done through FAST. So heres what I would need, let me know if anything should be added?

4mm stroker crank
115mm rods?
2x 795 series .030 pistons
Domes cut for stroker (shaved head as well?)
Both cylinders bored and honed
TX or max load crank bearings
Pancake bearing (ill do research on this one, not sure where it goes)
Steel idler gear bushing
Ive heard shift star mod, as well as shift shaft mod to make for easier shifting?

call up the boys at F.A.S.T they're very helpful, its like they got a part infront of them walking you through replacing it step by step, but they'll also tell you what you should go with and ya'da'ya'da.